Newby ST1100 owner question

Joined
May 5, 2016
Messages
10
Location
Vancouver,BC Canada
Bike
1992 ST1100
Hi all
Just got my 1992 ST1100 last week- 50 000 km's-first sport tourer owned-been a cruiser guy ( Nomad) up until now. I'm no mechanic of note-actually if it wasn't for YouTube tutorials I would be totally clueless !! I did tinker around with the bike today-removed the left and front covers-seems very apparent that the PO did not maintain bike well at all. There was no coolant at all in the reservoir (topped up) and the rear brake fluid was low as were the front brake and clutch reservoirs.Put in new DOT4 fluid.
The question I have is-on all the carbed bikes I have had previously-there has been a petcock, which I have turned to the "OFF" position when putting the bike away for the Winter and then allowing the engine to run until it dies-thus getting most of the fuel out of the carbs-so they dont get gunked up during the Winter. But I dont see a petcock on the ST1100- do you have to manually drain the carbs ?
Because of this lack of maintenance by PO what should I be looking at first to ensure some kind of preventative maintenance ? I checked the oil sight glass-it looks to be at correct level, albeit it very black-will do the oil and filter change tomorrow.
Appreciate all the advise in anticipation
cheers
 
Joined
Mar 20, 2016
Messages
1,201
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Bike
2005 ST1300
STOC #
8901
The ST11 has a vacuum operated petcock; if you pull the top cover (fake fuel tank) you should see this just to the back right of the airbox. These can give grief (the rubber diaphragm gets a hole it it and stops working) so many owners pull this out altogether, and plug the vacuum line that operates it. To shut the fuel flow you can just pull the vacuum line off and the valve will stay closed; use a golf tee or similar to seal the vacuum line if you do that. There is a fuel pump in the fuel tank, so you won't get fuel flow with the ignition off unless the tank level is very high. There are floatbowl drains on each carb but they're not the easiest to reach.

If you don't know the maintenance history then by default I'd suggest you replace all fluids (engine oil, final drive oil, clutch and brake fluid, radiator coolant) and filters (oil and air), and take a look at brake pads. Also check the sliding pins that the brakes are mounted on, they need to be kept greased.
 

sirepair

Let's RIDE!
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Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Messages
3,231
Location
Chillicothe, Ohio
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2003 ST1100P
STOC #
7105
TerryS is correct. My vacuum petcock had been removed by the previous owner, and I've never missed it. Terry's suggestions ring true.

Couple other things to check are electrial. Make sure battery connections are clean and tight. And the connections on the main relay and alternator/regulator connections need cleaned and secured.

If you have not already done so, join up on ST-RIDERS.NET, as there is a plethora of information on there for the ST1100s.
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
Disagree with Terry on one point: Do Not grease the slider pins for the brake pads. Read the shop manual, folks.

On the "low" brake fluid: the reservoirs should be full (fresh fluid, obviously) when new pads are installed. The level drops as the pads wear. If the fluid level is low, could indicate worn pads. In any case, check all that, don't just add fluid. Lots of info here and at st-riders.net on rebuilding brake calipers and replacing pads.

On the carbs, if the bike runs okay, idles okay, with no stutters, the carbs are probably okay. If idle is rough, etc. probably plugged low speed jets. Again, much info here and st-riders on these processes.

Depending on miles, you will want to do all the maintenance items. Best way to know your bike is to do your own maintenance, up to and including valve shims and timing belt. Keep us poSTed.
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2006
Messages
3,512
Location
British Columbia
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2021 RE Meteor 350
I would strongly recommend you get a copy of the Honda service manual, or the Clymer edition of same. It will detail very clearly many of the service steps needed to keep the bike in good shape. Agree with others here on changing all the fluids and it would also be a good idea to determine the state of your charging system. The pre '96 models have a 28 amp oil cooled alternator which has a few weak spots in the wiring that need to be inspected and cleaned regularly to prevent failure of the system. Lots of info on this site and others about that.

RE the carbs. They are a PITA to drain, so what I do over the winter down time is run the engine for a good twenty minutes or so to fully heat the entire engine and exhaust system, in order to burn off rust causing condensation. Do this once a month to keep the float bowls from drying out and gumming up and keep the fuel tank full also to prevent condensation forming in there. Did this religiously on my previous '95 ST and never had need to pull the carbs for cleaning in the 19 years I owned it.
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2006
Messages
3,512
Location
British Columbia
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2021 RE Meteor 350
There was no coolant at all in the reservoir (topped up)
This may be the result of the very common problem of a split overflow hose, where it connects at the rad cap. You will need to remove more plastic to get to this, but it is an easy fix. Just cut off an inch or so of the hose where split and re-attach, blowing through the hose first to clear any crud that can accumulate in the hose where it dips on its way to the reservoir tank.
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
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May 10, 2005
Messages
5,218
Location
Bettendorf, Iowa
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1991 SSMST1100
STOC #
1058
George, Terry was talking about the need to keep the caliper sliding pins greased. I agree, leave the brake pad hanger pins dry.

John
via iPhone 6
 
OP
OP
Joined
May 5, 2016
Messages
10
Location
Vancouver,BC Canada
Bike
1992 ST1100
Thanks very much for all the info guys-changed oil and filter today-went ok-the bottom plastic goodie was a PITA to get back on-but managed finally to get all 8 bolts lined up.
Will try and do the air filter next-havent pulled the faux gas tank yet-will try next weekend.Replied to your PM Bush-I'm in Richmond.
cheers
 
OP
OP
Joined
May 5, 2016
Messages
10
Location
Vancouver,BC Canada
Bike
1992 ST1100
One more quick question- my temp gauge is not working-thought it might be a fuse...I found the fuse box under the left side cover ,but couldn't locate the fuse relating to the temp gauge- is it hiding somewhere else ?
.
A tip for Canadian riders-went to Crappy Tire over the weekend and picked up a set of foam bicycle grips-with some dish soap/water slide quite nicely over the stock grip. Remove the bar ends.

cheers
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2006
Messages
3,512
Location
British Columbia
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2021 RE Meteor 350
Does the gauge not move at all? No fuse for it that I know of, but there is a sending unit located on the thermostat housing. The wire may be unattached or corroded, or the unit could be faulty.

Correction - There is a fuse for that, looking at the schematic now. It's the top one -10amp, but it also feeds the oil light, tach, horn etc, so if those are working, it isn't the fuse
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Joined
May 5, 2016
Messages
10
Location
Vancouver,BC Canada
Bike
1992 ST1100
Hi Bush

No gauge is completely static- the tach,horn etc are all good-will check the other option you mention.
cheers
 
Joined
Mar 20, 2016
Messages
1,201
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Bike
2005 ST1300
STOC #
8901
Might pay to check the temperature sending unit which is in the bottom of the thermostat housing, should have a wire connected to it. If that is there then check the green wire has continuity all the way to the gauge.
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2012
Messages
81
Location
Singapore
Bike
ST1100Y
Hi Bush

No gauge is completely static- the tach,horn etc are all good-will check the other option you mention.
cheers
If you short the wire from the sending unit under the thermostat to chassis ground and the meter moves to the extreme right, your temp gauge is probably alright.
If it doesn't deflect to the right and stay motionless, then you might want to look for a spare.
 
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