Rounded stanchion bolt

Joined
Feb 25, 2016
Messages
166
Location
Totton Hampshire
Bike
ST1100-L
Ok, so the bike is due it's Mot tomorrow, and the fork seal is.still leaking after being replaced the other week. I thought I would fit a genuine seal myself. So I drained the oil and went to remove the bolt only to find it had been rounded off. It looks like it had a splined hex Jamed I'm.so I stuck one In. And it just rounded make. :( what's the best way to remove it now? I've drained the oil fully in hope it will get through and worse case I'll dig old seal out with a screw driver.

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Joined
Mar 20, 2016
Messages
1,201
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Bike
2005 ST1300
STOC #
8901
If you are talking about the hex-head bolt at the bottom of the fork, I think your only option will be to drill the head off it. Probably best to get an OEM replacement as the hex head is shallower than a regular bolt so the axle can slip past.
 
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StuartKeith
Joined
Feb 25, 2016
Messages
166
Location
Totton Hampshire
Bike
ST1100-L
Yea I did see them getting used on some vids for same type of bolts. But there is no space for them as it's recessed. I think may have to drill out and should be then able remove stanchion then pull off and remove.

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Reginald

cyclepoke
Joined
Jan 5, 2008
Messages
727
Location
Georgetown, Tx
Bike
ST1300
STOC #
8898
You may try and cut a slot deep enough with a Drimel for a hefty screw driver before trying to drill the bolt out. Shops tend to torque these too much and some people had to remove with air impact wrenches, so you might consider a screw driver attachment on an air impact wrench. Just thinking that drilling out the bolt thru the fork slider and damper would be expensive if drill slipped.
 
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StuartKeith
Joined
Feb 25, 2016
Messages
166
Location
Totton Hampshire
Bike
ST1100-L
You may try and cut a slot deep enough with a Drimel for a hefty screw driver before trying to drill the bolt out. Shops tend to torque these too much and some people had to remove with air impact wrenches, so you might consider a screw driver attachment on an air impact wrench. Just thinking that drilling out the bolt thru the fork slider and damper would be expensive if drill slipped.
You cannot get in there though, the axel goes through there so its the cube area underneath. IT passed the MOT today, so I will worry about it end of the month now. Tyres are more important atm.
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
I have drilled the head off that bolt a couple times, not really a problem. I purchased a correct thread, grade 8, hex head at True Value (American hardware store) and ground the head down to correct depth. Hardened bolt a lot less likely to round out. Also, I made my own 6mm hex wrench by a gluing the long shank of an L shaped wrench into a 6mm socket. Much cheaper than buying the correct tool from Honda.
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
5,218
Location
Bettendorf, Iowa
Bike
1991 SSMST1100
STOC #
1058
What my friend George sez. I'll add that a 8mm drill bit should center itself in the bolt head socket. Drill slowly and check often. When you see copper shavings (the sealing washer under the bolt head) you are done. The bolt head should separate from the bolt, probably pull off on/with the drill bit. You can then separate the fork tube from the slider and deal with the remainder of the bolt then. FWIW

John
via iPhone 6
 
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