Side bags latches getting stiff - how and what lubricant to apply?

Guys - the catches on my ST1300 side bags are getting stiff - this is the "flaps" you push down to hold it closed, not the actual key lock. I sometimes find I have to fiddle it to close completely otherwise the key won't turn that final degree to come out. This issue happens with the door open too, so it's not an issue about the door not being fully closed. With the door open, when I operate the "flap" I can see two claws come out to grab and hold the door shut.
What lubricant should I use, and where, I don't want to put something in that clogs or collects dust and dirt.

I had a similar issue not sure its the right stuff but I used a spray lubricant right into the latch area you were talking about they freed up instantly. Not sure how long it will last but it worked for me.

Silicone spray lubricant into the latch mechanism.

Snave said:

Guys - the catches on my ST1300 side bags are getting stiff - this is the "flaps" you push down to hold it closed, not the actual key lock. I sometimes find I have to fiddle it to close completely otherwise the key won't turn that final degree to come out. This issue happens with the door open too, so it's not an issue about the door not being fully closed. With the door open, when I operate the "flap" I can see two claws come out to grab and hold the door shut.
What lubricant should I use, and where, I don't want to put something in that clogs or collects dust and dirt.

Click to expand...

THANKS for asking. Been wondering the same thing.

I would take the locking mechanism off the bag, clean it up, lube it and put it back in.

And while it is out, make sure there isn't any build up or stuff in there causing the key from turning.

SupraSabre said:

I would take the locking mechanism off the bag, clean it up, lube it and put it back in.

And while it is out, make sure there isn't any build up or stuff in there causing the key from turning.

Click to expand...

Had the same issue, cleaned, new white lithium lube on the sliding parts and dry graphite on the lock. Works like new and wonder why I waited so long.

First thing to do is open both bags, and observe the 8mms nuts that attach the lid to the body. They are sitting on a piece of metal over a rubber shim.
These tend to loosen up causing the bags to have trouble closing and thus binding the latches.
Snug all of these nuts (8) and I bet your sticky latch will be better.
I also remove and disassemble the latches, clean them, then grease them with silicone grease.
I avoid spraying anything into the locks that will collect dust and cause other problems.

I have used white lithium lube from a spray can in the past, but I think a better answer would be the dry lubricant in a spray can in order to minimize collecting dust and dirt. This can also be used on the lock mechanism.

SupraSabre said:

I would take the locking mechanism off the bag, clean it up, lube it and put it back in.

And while it is out, make sure there isn't any build up or stuff in there causing the key from turning.

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Hey SS - how do you take the mechanism off the case? I see some cross-head screws and some small nuts in there...

Snave said:

Hey SS - how do you take the mechanism off the case? I see some cross-head screws and some small nuts in there...

Click to expand...

Ahh - just found Igofar's suggestion:

Igofar said:

First thing to do is open both bags, and observe the 8mms nuts that attach the lid to the body. They are sitting on a piece of metal over a rubber shim.
These tend to loosen up causing the bags to have trouble closing and thus binding the latches.
Snug all of these nuts (8) and I bet your sticky latch will be better.
I also remove and disassemble the latches, clean them, then grease them with silicone grease.
I avoid spraying anything into the locks that will collect dust and cause other problems.

Click to expand...

The original lube was a waxy substance a lot like "Door Eze". Which is used on automotive door latches, comes in push up stick form.
Dooreze is what I used when I rekeyed my lock cylinders. It won't wash out, it's waterproof.

I just done my left bag tonight. It would stick on the rear latch. I removed the part, 4 nuts and a bunch of screws, Keep them separated as there are 2 different length screws. The mechanism was stiff and did not move easily. I tried silicon spray but it still worked hard. I then used white lithium and worked it around which worked well. Watch out for the 2 small ball bearing one on each side of the handle if you do take it apart and if you remove the mechanism off the 4 bolts... I looked for the oem part and it was only $25 (81260 MCS G00). which is not bad. I leave for California on June 9th and should be fine.

jmcarruth said:

Silicone spray lubricant into the latch mechanism.

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+1 It's easy on plastics and not so bad collecting dust. It's worked for me so well I can't remember when I last sprayed some in it. Other lubricants that are better are also messy around your gear. Tightening up the hinge nuts is a good idea.

I just did mine too...works great now.

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Most locksmiths will tell you only dry lubes in locks - like graphite powder, moly disulfide powder, or silicone. This comes from or is primarily for your standard pin tumbler lock (common household lock - schlage or kwikset cylnder locks) because the tolerances are tight and it takes very very little dirt to clog or jam the pins. Other types of locks will benefit from the same approach but if tolerances are looser, then oils/loght greases might not be a problem. Generally, using any oil that holds dust is going to lead to failure (jamming) unless it is washed out regularly and relubed.