ST1300 fork seal replacement

STmark1300 · Jul 22, 2018

Don't go by me, I don't know but what the book says. If these guys reuse them it's probably ok.

scottloo · Aug 5, 2018

Great advice and comments all, glad we have this forum tool.

I have followed along and replaced bushings and new proportional springs too. Oh used the cheap home deport fitting option and nocked out the inner lip with a flat head screw driver. I also found I needed to cut a slot and used hose clamp to adjust the diameter to work on both bushing and seal with just a twist on the clamps (picture below).

BUT now am stuck getting the top cap screwed back on with the recommended 25mm preload. I've marked the thread start location as suggested in another thread, but 1/4to 1/2 turn in it feels like starting to cross thread itself. Using my son to help turn fork tub while I push down on cap. Any suggestions?

dduelin · Aug 5, 2018

scottloo said:
Great advice and comments all, glad we have this forum tool.

I have followed along and replaced bushings and new proportional springs too. Oh used the cheap home deport fitting option and nocked out the inner lip with a flat head screw driver. I also found I needed to cut a slot and used hose clamp to adjust the diameter to work on both bushing and seal with just a twist on the clamps (picture below).

BUT now am stuck getting the top cap screwed back on with the recommended 25mm preload. I've marked the thread start location as suggested in another thread, but 1/4to 1/2 turn in it feels like starting to cross thread itself. Using my son to help turn fork tub while I push down on cap. Any suggestions?

The trick for me is to hold the cap down and steady with a 17 mm hex in a breaker bar (no rachet) and turn the fork tube instead to engage the threads. I'm always doing this by myself with 16 mm extra preload.

SMSW · Aug 5, 2018

I had my fork tube clamped in a 2x4 (drill right size hole in a piece of wood, use a drum sander to adjust the size slightly, drill a cross hole outside the hole, and then slot through that cross hole w/ a table saw; run a bolt thru the cross hole, insert fork tube, tighten bolt and you have a home made clamp) and the 2x4 clamped in a vise. I pushed down on the fork cap w/ the heel of my hand, (well, one hand on top of the other) and turned the cap. Guess I was lucky - it went on the first time. Only done both fork tubes once.

mlheck · Aug 5, 2018

I always slide the fork back into the triple tree and clamp it, then install the cap. Do not tighten the bolts on the top bridge though. You can really push down on the cap this way. And yes these are VERY easy to cross thread. Turn the cap counter clock wise a turn or two before you attempt to thread it in. This can help align things. I've done these several this times with that much preload. Just go slow and don't force the threads. A little fork oil on the threads will help also.

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dwalby · Aug 5, 2018

mlheck said:
Turn the cap counter clock wise a turn or two before you attempt to thread it in. This can help align things.

I've always used the counter clockwise starting method as well. It shouldn't take more than one turn, sometimes less, until you feel a very slight click when the thread alignment is achieved.

jettawreck · Aug 20, 2018

I have a leaking right fork seal all of a sudden it seems.
Having just recently done front tire replacement and front brake pads, I've been around the front wheel quite a bit and never noticed any oil on it, but now there is oil on the rim and it's obviously fork oil running down from above and with the bike on the side stand it drips onto the right side of the wheel rim.
A couple questions. Since riding season is relatively short up here in the north country I don't want (nor have the extra time currently) to take the time now to do a full fork seal replacement. Would like to try the "seal saver/doctor" and see if that cleaning method works in this situation.
1) The tube guard/dust seal. Does it just pry up? I can move it around a tiny bit side to side, but doesn't seem to want to budge upwards. Saw something about heat gun but wasn't sure if that was referring to the guard for sure.
2) Since some oil has leaked out and more will by the time I get to try to clean the seal, even if that works, how can the proper amount of oil fill be figured? Read that the measurements were with springs out and forks compressed depending on OEM/aftermarket, etc. What about just to refill after a bit of leak seepage?
Feel free to point me to the best "how to" and/or video(s).
Havent replaced fork seals in anything since 1980 or so probably. The old Yamaha MX was a simple machine.

dduelin · Aug 20, 2018

jettawreck said:
I have a leaking right fork seal all of a sudden it seems.
Having just recently done front tire replacement and front brake pads, I've been around the front wheel quite a bit and never noticed any oil on it, but now there is oil on the rim and it's obviously fork oil running down from above and with the bike on the side stand it drips onto the right side of the wheel rim.
A couple questions. Since riding season is relatively short up here in the north country I don't want (nor have the extra time currently) to take the time now to do a full fork seal replacement. Would like to try the "seal saver/doctor" and see if that cleaning method works in this situation.
1) The tube guard/dust seal. Does it just pry up? I can move it around a tiny bit side to side, but doesn't seem to want to budge upwards. Saw something about heat gun but wasn't sure if that was referring to the guard for sure.
2) Since some oil has leaked out and more will by the time I get to try to clean the seal, even if that works, how can the proper amount of oil fill be figured? Read that the measurements were with springs out and forks compressed depending on OEM/aftermarket, etc. What about just to refill after a bit of leak seepage?
Feel free to point me to the best "how to" and/or video(s).
Havent replaced fork seals in anything since 1980 or so probably. The old Yamaha MX was a simple machine.

1) Yes, it just pries up. The dust wiper is a press fit in the slider. A small thin screwdriver inserted between the wiper and the top of the slider, used carefully and with restraint, will begin to dislodge it. You can figure it out from there.

2.) No, there is no way to ascertain how much oil to refill to set the level back to the stock setting of 62 mm. A little oil seems like an awful lot when spilled.....probably very little has actually leaked out compared to the full amount of 638 cc. If the seal saver tool works I wouldn't worry about adding any oil at all, or at most 10 or 15 cc.

3.) Original fork oil, seals, etc. on an 18 year old bike? Why not thinking about pulling the forks and freshening everything up? It's not that much of a job to do.

Kevcules · Aug 20, 2018

jettawreck said:
I have a leaking right fork seal all of a sudden it seems.
Having just recently done front tire replacement and front brake pads, I've been around the front wheel quite a bit and never noticed any oil on it, but now there is oil on the rim and it's obviously fork oil running down from above and with the bike on the side stand it drips onto the right side of the wheel rim.
A couple questions. Since riding season is relatively short up here in the north country I don't want (nor have the extra time currently) to take the time now to do a full fork seal replacement. Would like to try the "seal saver/doctor" and see if that cleaning method works in this situation.
1) The tube guard/dust seal. Does it just pry up? I can move it around a tiny bit side to side, but doesn't seem to want to budge upwards. Saw something about heat gun but wasn't sure if that was referring to the guard for sure.
2) Since some oil has leaked out and more will by the time I get to try to clean the seal, even if that works, how can the proper amount of oil fill be figured? Read that the measurements were with springs out and forks compressed depending on OEM/aftermarket, etc. What about just to refill after a bit of leak seepage?
Feel free to point me to the best "how to" and/or video(s).
Havent replaced fork seals in anything since 1980 or so probably. The old Yamaha MX was a simple machine.

The tube protector just lifts up out of the little groove it sits in. Start to push up on one side, then the other. It will come up. Then use a flat screwdriver and gently slip it in under and twist the dust boot up. There is a slot on the inside of the fork you can use to start it. Then use some thin plastic or old 35 mm camera film to slide it under the seal lip then run it around to clean out the gunk. I wouldn't worry about refilling our fork oil until you remove the forks and disassemble.

Dduelin is too fast!

jettawreck · Aug 20, 2018

dduelin said:
1) Yes, it just pries up. The dust wiper is a press fit in the slider. A small thin screwdriver inserted between the wiper and the top of the slider, used carefully and with restraint, will begin to dislodge it. You can figure it out from there.

2.) No, there is no way to ascertain how much oil to refill to set the level back to the stock setting of 62 mm. A little oil seems like an awful lot when spilled.....probably very little has actually leaked out compared to the full amount of 638 cc. If the seal saver tool works I wouldn't worry about adding any oil at all, or at most 10 or 15 cc.

3.) Original fork oil, seals, etc. on an 18 year old bike? Why not thinking about pulling the forks and freshening everything up? It's not that much of a job to do.

Thanks for the info and tips.
3) As far as I know the seals/oil are original. It's currently at just under 38K miles on the 2004 (15 years old, but yes, it's due). As I mentioned, the freshen up process will in all likelihood have to wait until it's time to park it for the year. Too many other priority projects going on until then. Does it pay to plan on doing the bushings at the same time or should they still be fine at this mileage point??

dduelin · Aug 20, 2018

I would wager they are fine at 38,000 but you can inspect them and make up your mind during the long winter layup.

ST1300 fork seal replacement

STmark1300

Ron

scottloo

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