Can't fully tighten top bolt on front left caliper

Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
27
Location
Laguna Niguel, CA
Bike
'03 ST1300
Hello,

I've just finished putting on new tires and new brake pads. Everything has gone really well except the last final bolt. Typical.

Thanks for looking, I've attached a picture to help indicate the bolt. It's on the left caliper and the bolt at the top. It's the bolt that's different to the other three used on the two front calipers. It's 8mm x 1.25 it has a shoulder sleeve at the top of the bolt.

The bolt came out O.K. but on re-install it stopped at the shoulder, backed it out and checked it was the right one and that it would fit. Looked good so tried again, got to the shoulder and again it stopped. Used a bit of elbow grease and got it in a bit further, but then it felt as though it was threading. Backed it out with it not felling too bad. I got a 8mm x 1.25 nut and tried the bolt in there, the bolt had some red thread lock at the end. Cleaned it up and tried with the nut to see if the bolt was good, it was. Got a 8mm x 1.25 tap and re-threaded the grooves to the caliper brace, which went well. But still the same problem, it gets to the last part and just won't fully tighten, it just spins a little. The caliper can be moved at the top side to side by a mm or two and not how I think it should be. Got a fresh 8mm x 1.25 bolt which is maybe 2 mm shorter, I can get it all the way in and tight, but still the caliper can be moved a mm or two by hand.

I'm assuming this isn't correct and the caliper should have no free play whatsoever, but I'm stuck as to what to try next and don't want to try the new tires and brake pads without thinking it's 100% as it should be.

Thanks for taking the time, I appreciate it. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Rossi
 

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Igofar

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It looks like you accidentally spun the yoke around backwards!
Remove the bolts top first, then bottom, and pull the caliper back far enough that you will be able to rotate the yoke around correctly.
Be very careful not to bend or damage the brown fibre collar/spacer that the top bolt goes through, as it is not replaceable from honda.
If you need further help PM me a contact number and I will call and assist you.
Igofar
 

KTD1911

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Paducah ky
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Hello,

I've just finished putting on new tires and new brake pads. Everything has gone really well except the last final bolt. Typical.

Thanks for looking, I've attached a picture to help indicate the bolt. It's on the left caliper and the bolt at the top. It's the bolt that's different to the other three used on the two front calipers. It's 8mm x 1.25 it has a shoulder sleeve at the top of the bolt.

The bolt came out O.K. but on re-install it stopped at the shoulder, backed it out and checked it was the right one and that it would fit. Looked good so tried again, got to the shoulder and again it stopped. Used a bit of elbow grease and got it in a bit further, but then it felt as though it was threading. Backed it out with it not felling too bad. I got a 8mm x 1.25 nut and tried the bolt in there, the bolt had some red thread lock at the end. Cleaned it up and tried with the nut to see if the bolt was good, it was. Got a 8mm x 1.25 tap and re-threaded the grooves to the caliper brace, which went well. But still the same problem, it gets to the last part and just won't fully tighten, it just spins a little. The caliper can be moved at the top side to side by a mm or two and not how I think it should be. Got a fresh 8mm x 1.25 bolt which is maybe 2 mm shorter, I can get it all the way in and tight, but still the caliper can be moved a mm or two by hand.

I'm assuming this isn't correct and the caliper should have no free play whatsoever, but I'm stuck as to what to try next and don't want to try the new tires and brake pads without thinking it's 100% as it should be.

Thanks for taking the time, I appreciate it. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Rossi
it should be able to move so that the linked brake system can work that is why it has a shoulder on it
 
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Rossi_46
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
27
Location
Laguna Niguel, CA
Bike
'03 ST1300
Thank you both for such quick replies.

Igofar, thanks for your advice it made sense and I went to where I think you were talking about and rotated it, being careful of the brown fibre collar. I've attached a picture as to what I assume you meant. It now has the nut part of hopefully the yolk you're referring to on the wheel side of the fork, allowing the bolt to go fully through and connect with the other end. There is still very minimal play in the caliper, but in all a definite improvement and I believe it's now correct. Any confirmation would be greatly received.

Thanks very much mate, real quick and correct reply. It was the last bolt and really annoyed me that somehow I'd got it wrong.
 

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Igofar

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2023 Honda CT125A
Ding.....Ding....Ding.....
We have a winner!
Simple mistake to make, glad you caught it before you tried to ride the bike.
The caliper moves a couple millimeters when the smc (plunger) moves, this is how the brake system works.
I would strongly suggest that you search the forum for smc issues and how to test it etc.
Did you happen to grease the needle bearings on the rear pivot point while you were working on her?
 
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Rossi_46
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
27
Location
Laguna Niguel, CA
Bike
'03 ST1300
Thanks again for such a quick reply mate. You've been a star, thanks.

I'll check out the posts on the SMC issue before I take it out. I did not grease the needle bearings on the rear pivot point, mainly because that part of the service manual doesn't mention it and secondly I'm not sure where that actually is?

Cheers mate, appreciate it.
 

Reginald

cyclepoke
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Georgetown, Tx
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ST1300
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8898
I did not grease the needle bearings on the rear pivot point, mainly because that part of the service manual doesn't mention it and secondly I'm not sure where that actually is?
This is something you should grease, mine has locked up in the past (https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?136177-Ever-Seen-A-Pivot-Bearing-Do-This&highlight=). It's the bottom bolt on the SMC sub assembly bracket. Once the bracket is removed there is a collar that's easily removed which will reveal the needle bearings. Clean out the grease that is there with brake cleaner, wipe it clean with shop towel, let it dry, and then reapply some good water resistant bearing grease. Do not pack it full of grease, just 2/3rds full. I do this every time I change the front tire since my bearing is damaged. It still rotates easily.
 
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Rossi_46
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
27
Location
Laguna Niguel, CA
Bike
'03 ST1300
Thanks again for the good advice. I checked the needle bearings and it looked really clean, but still followed your advice and it's another thing I now know what to do. Cheers
 
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