28amp alternator installation woes

I'm in the middle of refurbing my '95 1100. This is the deepest I've got into any mechanical work on my bikes. I've got the engine back in the frame and then went about trying to re-install my alternator but despite copious wiggling and swearing I can't seem to get it to fit past the frame. I've tried angles/approaches shown in a couple of YouTube vids showing installation of a 40amp alt but they don't seem to work for the 28.

I have used the forum search to no avail so have registered to ask the question. Does anyone have any suggestions / links to write ups or vids which may help?

Would appreciate any help / guidance.

Joe


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Ginja_Joe said:

...trying to re-install my alternator but despite copious wiggling and swearing I can't seem to get it to fit past the frame.

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Have you removed the swing-arm?

Yup, if you didn't fit the cover back on before reinstalling the engine, you'll have to now pull the swing arm to get in there.

Swingarm is already out. Trying to install in between two frame cross members, the upper of which being where the front of the fuel tank mounts to.

Can it be fitted as a whole unit or does the rotor and stator need to be unbolted from each other?

I had enough trouble fitting the engine back in frame even without the alternator in place.


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I think you have to install the flywheel/rotor assembly first, then the cover.

wjbertrand said:

I think you have to install the flywheel/rotor assembly first, then the cover.

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+1...
Length of the assembled kit won't have enough clearance...

Thanks for advice, now got clearance to get in there.
Next issue is that the drive gear won't engage correctly to allow fitment.
I think it's possible that the '6mm' bolt I've got in it to align the spring loaded section isn't the right size to properly align the two parts of the gear.
I'm currently searching around the garage to find something a tighter fit to jam in there ...


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Ginja_Joe said:

Thanks for advice, now got clearance to get in there.
Next issue is that the drive gear won't engage correctly to allow fitment.
I think it's possible that the '6mm' bolt I've got in it to align the spring loaded section isn't the right size to properly align the two parts of the gear.
I'm currently searching around the garage to find something a tighter fit to jam in there ...


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Click to expand...

I had a heck of a time getting those gears aligned and reinstalled into the engine as well, but using something that will be a tighter fit to jam into the alignment hole won't be a good idea, as it makes it even more difficult to pull that pin out once in place. It is called the Lewis pin here and it is made using the smooth shaft portion of one of those old 6mm stator bolts, as you have done.

My stuck pin broke two retrieving wires trying to pull it out, requiring me to remove the assembly two times, after struggling to get it in place! Had to file and sand it very, very smooth and used a heavy copper wire finally, soldering the pigtail holding the pin on the wire. The wife had to hold the bike from me pulling it off the centrestand - it took that much effort for me to get that pin out.

Part of the key to getting that split gear in place, with the pin mostly aligning the gears, is to give the whole assembly a twist as you push it into the engine, twisting in the correct direction to fully align the gears of course. I can't remember which way that is now, but looking at the gears makes it apparent.

Make sure the 6mm bolt remains located around the 3:00-6:00 location, when viewing the opening from the rear, as you advance the assembly into place. If the bolt sticks out too far, and the assembly rotates to any other location, it will contact the engine block anywhere else and potentially prevent seating.

wjbertrand said:

Make sure the 6mm bolt remains located around the 3:00-6:00 location, when viewing the opening from the rear, as you advance the assembly into place. If the bolt sticks out too far, and the assembly rotates to any other location, it will contact the engine block anywhere else and potentially prevent seating.

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Good point . . . . OR, you won't be able to remove the pin.

Bush said:

Good point . . . . OR, you won't be able to remove the pin.

Click to expand...

Yup. Don't ask!

As a summary and close, alternator now refitted. Filed down a larger bolt so I could get a perfect fit and alignment on the splines. I already the sump off for another reason so getting bolt out again was easy.
Thanks for all the help and advice - I know it's easy when you know how but this is very much a learning experience for me.


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