Has anyone pulled an ST1300 alternator?

wjbertrand

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Does the radiator have to come out? All the photos in the service manual show the radiator and t-stat housing already removed. Any tips? Thanks
 

SteveST1300

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Yes it makes it much easier I did mine last year Radiator and throttle bodies. If I remember right the alternator has to come out where the radiator sits.
 

dduelin

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I R & R'd my OEM one several years ago at 116,xxx miles. I think I followed the service manual procedure and came at it from above. I replaced all the coolant hoses so I had the t-stat housing and radiator out of the way.

I took some pics and posted a thread during that job. Igofar has done this job, perhaps more than once. He said before you can get it out from the front between the intakes. It's very tightly packaged in there, maybe you can. I appreciated the limited room made by removing the TB and the coolant hoses. I had maybe 10 hours labor moving at my slow DIY pace.
 

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I pulled the one that was on that engine I sold. (Included the alt with it) but that was easy! ;)

Looking at this picture, it looks like you have to remove the thermostat housing and components around it, so it would probably be easier to pull the radiator first.

AfterPullingTheTB-2.jpg
 
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wjbertrand

wjbertrand

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Thanks again. I'm going to be replacing the brushes and am wondering if I can do that without actually pulling the alternator out?
 
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wjbertrand

wjbertrand

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Isn't it wonderful how Honda took such an easy to DIY machine like the 1100 and turned it into the 1300??:mad:
Yeah, some things are definitely harder to do but to Honda's defense, I've not had to do much to this bike until it reached 150K miles. My ST1100 by contrast had suffered a few major repairs before it reached even 100K miles, including a 28A stator failure and a burned exhaust valve. I know why Honda buried the alternator where they did, I think it was in response to corrosion issues with the low, rearward mounting of the unit on the ST11 that resulted in locked up engines in the EU.
 

Scooter

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Isn't it wonderful how Honda took such an easy to DIY machine like the 1100 and turned it into the 1300??:mad:
Life is full of compromises. On the 1300 I don't have to worry about changing the timing belt like you fella's with the 1100's. I'd also wager that I can change the clutch plates out a lot faster too.

Jeff, why do you think you need to change out the brushes on your alternator? Did you ever acquire a new wiring harness for your bike?

BTW, I've got 155K miles on mine which is why I'm curious...
 
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wjbertrand

wjbertrand

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I've been seeing the system voltage slowly drop over time and my datel gauge fluctuates a bit at the misfiring RPM. Someone suggested that worn, arcing brushes could be throwing some RF noise and messing with the wiring/ECM. Scraping at remote possibilities at this point.


-Jeff
 
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Does the radiator have to come out? All the photos in the service manual show the radiator and t-stat housing already removed. Any tips? Thanks
I just removed mine without touching the coolantsystem at all! :)
But i had to disassemble the rear of the alternator first. The reason i did that was that i was hoping the reason for loss of charging was worn brushes.
Changing them IS possible without taking the alternator out but it is not easy.
The problem with mine was a broken rotorcoil.
Going to install a complete new one as soon it arrives.
I believe i have to take off the wateroutlets on the heads to get it down there again as a whole part, but nothing more.
 
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Installed my new alternator today.
Still did not have to touch coolantcircuit or fairing.
Did everything by just removing tank/throttlebody.
Only pita is the bolt underneath the alternator
image.jpg
 

970mike

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Installed my new alternator today.
Still did not have to touch coolantcircuit or fairing.
Did everything by just removing tank/throttlebody.
Only pita is the bolt underneath the alternator
image.jpg

Looks like you could use to replace your hoses and clamps as you have some coolant leaks under there.
 
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I am in the process of removing my alternator on my 2007 but cant seem to get it out. It comes out a little but then stops. Could this be the bolt you refer to? Where is it? I can see a 6mm bolt with a 10mm head in there on the front of the alternator. Do I have to remove this bolt? Thanks!
 
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I am in the process of removing my alternator on my 2007 but cant seem to get it out. It comes out a little but then stops. Could this be the bolt you refer to? Where is it? I can see a 6mm bolt with a 10mm head in there on the front of the alternator. Do I have to remove this bolt? Thanks!
The bolt has a 12mm head and is located underneath the alternator.
Almost impossible to reach...! I ended up disassemble the rear of the alternator prior to reach it.
When installing it i did not use that bolt again. Have ridden 2000 miles without it without issue ofcourse.
Picture of location here:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/E6UAAOSwhDdXENPq/$_1.JPG
 
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wjbertrand

wjbertrand

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Also, the oil pressure switch had to come out in my case as it prevented moving the alternator far enough forward to disengage it.
 

dduelin

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This is what the bolt pattern of the alternator looks like. You have access to the lower one by removing the thermostat housing and the oil pressure sending unit, perhaps the metal pipe joints on the heads - I can't really remember.

Don't take shortcuts and leave retaining bolts and fasteners lying on the bench. The alternator spins from 8,000 to 19,500 rpm during engine operation. Do you really want to wonder if two bolts of three is all that is really necessary? I have seen (and heard) what happens to a ST1300 when the alternator gear drive grenades.

 
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