Saddlebag guard installation ST1300

I have a set of Goldwing saddlebag guards, the adapters, and all the mounting hardware. The black GL bars will look great. But there is a problem...

How do you stabilize the frame and swing arm so they stay aligned when you remove the bolts? I can't see any way to remove one bolt at a time. I would love to get this done in the next day or so.

Thanks

Just don't take the bike over 85mph, do any wheelies or stoppies or riding 2-up and it will be fine.

Seriously, nothing to worry about.
I've had both bolts on the same side out on mine a dozen times. Once or twice it did slip just a hair... walked around the back, grab the tail and swift jerk up and all was good. It is a one person job easily.
The whole rear assembly is a piece and as long as one other bolt on the other side is still in it can't move too far. It'll have to move sideways as well as slide down and the aluminum frame won't let ti get too far out of whak.

I concur with T_C. Provided that you remove the bolts from only one side at a time and don't disturb the bike, you should be fine.

I removed both bolts from one side and had a hell of a time getting even one back in. At the time, I settled for just getting the frame reassembled (it's a commute vehicle for me).

Guess I'll try it again. Maybe I didn't support the back wheel enough.

Thanks

OK...Got it done. Supported the rear wheel and took out only one bolt at a time. No big deal after all.

Still don't get why there is a difference between the left and right side guards.

I did mine in April. If you can figure out why they turn out different, let me know. The pics look great. Nice job.

Where did you get the Gold Wing guards, adapters and hardware? Those look great, I've never been a big fan of the chrome ones. Also curious if there is room to fold the passenger pegs up.

The Gold wing saddlebag guards are from an F6B. Black guards are OEM standard. The adapters came from an ST1300 forum member; they are rare, but still available second hand. Separate from the adapters is the hardware. The fasteners are specific and available in black oxide or chrome, depending on your tastes.

A couple of details...The passenger pegs fold us as usual, but they rub against the acorn nuts (or conventional nuts) that hold on the guards. The saddlebags lid rubs against the guards when you lower the lid. Both issues are solved with adhesive-backed felt pads.

Sorry...I didn't get photos of the pads.

I didn't know it when I was assembling the various parts, but the total cost is about $150, about $65 shy of other options (Big Dawg, MCL). It's a different look than something designed for the ST rather than adapted to it.

I got off cheap. My GL1800 bars were $25 and the bolts were about $3.00.

How did you attach the GL1800 bars without some sort of adapter? One of the challenges in this farkle is dealing with the offset of the holes in the bars with the holes in the frame. If you were able to attach the bars directly, I'd like to see pictures and know your method to bypass the adapter issue.

I wanted black new bars (60) and those usually come from an F6B trike conversion. I also wanted black acorn nuts, countersunk bolts and longer frame bolts, which cost a bit more (30). The real difference in cost was the adapters - made in small batches occasionally by an ST1300 forum member and sometimes available used. I also used spacers to stand the adapters off the surface by about 1/8".

Freelancer said:

How did you attach the GL1800 bars without some sort of adapter? One of the challenges in this farkle is dealing with the offset of the holes in the bars with the holes in the frame. If you were able to attach the bars directly, I'd like to see pictures and know your method to bypass the adapter issue.

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I used a padded vise and a hose clamp to set the hole distance. The "how to" has been covered many times before in other threads. I preferred the cleaner look of directly bolting the bars to the frame and did so. These clear the saddlebags and provide sufficient clearance for use of the passenger pegs.

Well...Talk about timing. It hasn't been even two weeks since I installed saddlebag guards, but it appears to have been just in time.

On the way home from work on Friday, I unintentionally rode across a line of traffic buttons at too sharp an angle (at 30-35mph), and the wheels were literally kicked out from under me. Normally, I stay away from these road markings but this time it couldn't be helped.

The ST1300 engine guards in front of me and the saddlebag guards behind me kept my legs and feet off the ground. We bounced on the right side, then landed on the left. I took a nasty bruise to my right hip and the helmet is toast. The rear steel guards made all of the difference in the outcome. The saddlebag lids need to be replaced, among other cosmetics. I treated and released from the ER.

When the insurance company settles the claim, guess which parts will be replaced first? Take your pick...MCL, Big Dawg, or Goldwing. All are good options.

These bars just moved up on my farkles list !! Glad you and your bike were not more seriously damaged. And your helmet died a valiant death,,, may it rip. Cat'

dduelin said:

I used a padded vise and a hose clamp to set the hole distance. The "how to" has been covered many times before in other threads. I preferred the cleaner look of directly bolting the bars to the frame and did so. These clear the saddlebags and provide sufficient clearance for use of the passenger pegs.

Click to expand...

What was the size and length of the bolts you used?

Armaghboy said:

What was the size and length of the bolts you used?

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If the bar is bolted directly to the frame then 10mm diameter by 40 mm minimum length. 45 mm will not protrude. Both work. Sadly I don't recall the pitch but 1.5 is standard for the diameter/length.

thanks for the info

Hi all,

So now with my throttle problems behind me I wanted to install these except I got the flat black to match my ST1300.

I'm having the same problem as above. I removed one frame bolt, tried to secure the longer bolt but it literally stopped turning. After a couple of attempts and fear of snapping the new bolts I tried to go back to putting the old bolts in and I cannot get them to go all the way in, so now I'm back to not being able to ride.

I read this thread but I am stuck at trying to figure out how to align the frame with the subframe? Looks like the bolt holes are 'high' behind the outer frame and I don't know how to align it.

Russ

Russ Le Blang said:

I read this thread but I am stuck at trying to figure out how to align the frame with the subframe? Looks like the bolt holes are 'high' behind the outer frame and I don't know how to align it.
Russ

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Grunt and groan. When I had both bolts out on mine at one point the tail section slipped down a bit. Swift hard yank upwards and it was back in location. Friction held it in place long enough for me to get the bolts started again.

T_C said:

Grunt and groan. When I had both bolts out on mine at one point the tail section slipped down a bit. Swift hard yank upwards and it was back in location. Friction held it in place long enough for me to get the bolts started again.

Click to expand...

What am I yanking on exactly (please don't insert inappropriate joke here!)? It looks like the frame moved forward... check out the picture:

Put a small bottle jack under the driveshaft pumpkin to take the pressure off the back end of the bike, and NEVER take all the bolts out at the same time