2016 BMW 1200RT

I'm still on my 2012RT and have never ridden the 16. My 12 rides just fine for and I also have the Clearwaters lights but mounted under the mirrors. I too am curious if your mounting location offers more light closer to the road on low beam. I know they are mounted in the same location on the GTL.

Trapperdog said:

Nice looking RT, makes me miss our '13 but I've ridden the new ones and they're so much nicer. Curious as to why you mounted both of the CW's down low? We had the Ericas mounted much higher on the RT as well as our three current bikes and will soon be mounting some on the ST.

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When I got the clearwaters there was no brackets available for under mirrors until recently. At this point I am just gonna leave them there I usually run with them on at 10% power and when I hit the high beam switch they both go to 100% power.

Congrats on the new machine, Dave.... don't know how I missed this thread. It looks great!

RaYzerman said:

Congrats on the new machine, Dave.... don't know how I missed this thread. It looks great!

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Thanks Ray...hope all is well up north

Nice, Dave...and almost as fast as 2014 blue...

I picked up my new 2016 on Saturday.

ST-venture said:

I picked up my new 2016 on Saturday.

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Very nice. Grats!!

ST-venture said:

I picked up my new 2016 on Saturday.

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Congrats, looks like it's in showroom condition!

Has anyone been able to run their heated gear using the factory power outlet on the R1200RT?
My Gerbing jacket liner causes the outlet to shut down. I measured the current draw and with the liner and gloves on full blast they draw 9.1 amps. The manual states the outlet is rated for 10 amps.
I do see the power jump up and down because the controller is cycling power on and off and the bike may not be able handle the spikes.
I have been able to run just the gloves because they only pull around 2.2 amps. I can't seem to get the jacket liner to work even though it only pulls at most around 7.9 amps.
I'm thinking I may have to just run the power outlet straight from the battery or through a FZ-1 fuse block like I have on my Tenere.

I just tapped directly to battery and also use the same plug for my battery tender. No issues at all

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

ST-venture said:

Has anyone been able to run their heated gear using the factory power outlet on the R1200RT?

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Yup. I had that issue. I just connected the Gerbing harness to my battery like I've done on every bike I've had in the past 20 years...works great.

Looks like I will have to go with the FZ-1 like I have to all of my recent bikes. It would allow me to add a better horn as well.

A bit off topic maybe, but I test rode a 2016 BMW R1200RT last week. Then rode my 2007 ST1300 on the same loop afterwards.

I admire you guy's ability to drop the big $$$$$ on these! I could sell by ST for around $5K and the new RT would be around $22K, so a mere $17K difference! Ahhhhhh!

I just could not justify the $17K improvement.

Also, as I toggled between Dynamic/Road/Rain I did not see that big a difference in power. I see no issue with riding it in Dynamic all the time.

Also, as I toggled through the different suspension settings I embarrassingly couldn't tell any difference between the 3 settings.

The RT felt lighter, zippier, handled curvy roads a bit better ... but again, for me, not $17K better.

So I am sticking with my ST1300. But I LOVE that 2016 Marino blue, it is beautiful.

usedtobefast said:

....Also, as I toggled between Dynamic/Road/Rain I did not see that big a difference in power. I see no issue with riding it in Dynamic all the time........

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Leaving RanchSToc pouring rain, about a mile of wet clay slicker than owl snot, rear was moving at least a foot side to side at almost walking speed. Put it in Rain and all of a sudden like it was on rails. You won't see any difference in traction control until you are sliding, then it's magic.

After hours in the saddle I can tell a big difference between suspension settings too. Particularly going from straight Interstate to twisty roads.

Tom

Used to be fast.....
Yes, I agree rode one and the settings seem over complicated nonsense. IMO.
I didn't seem to fit it either and if I had bought it in 2014 then it would have cost 19000 blummin pounds and would now be worth 10000 only.
The price would have included extras etc.
My ST cost 2500 and is worth 2500. There's got to be a moral here.
But for those of you who like em enjoy yourselves.
Upt'North.

I do wish they were cheaper... but they are sweeeeet in my opinion.. I'm getting to the 3-year-time-to-start-looking-at-different-bikes time and the RT is actually on top of the list 2nd place is the FJR...

The FJR and Super Tenere electronics are just about identical - actually, they probably are to make manufacturing easier and less complicated. So, that would make the RT a stronger candidate.. However, the Super Tenere is just working so well for me... I may put another 3 years on this bike.. I'd like to see how reliable the new RT is over the long haul. I know BMW has issues from time to tome but no bike is perfect, which is great because it means I won't get bored looking/riding them.. lol

I saw Tom's at RanchSTOC last year, pretty darn nice setup... Saw Bob's at the Spring GA Rally, great blue color...

RT must be stopped & running with rider on seat to adjust the suspension. U can feel the bike go up & down as U make the adjustments.
There is a lot of difference between the driver modes, Dynamic/Road/Rain. Fuel mileage for 1. The Rain mode keeps the rear wheel under control & works great.
Again U have to be stopped to select the modes.

Ace, that's just preload adjustment than requires being stopped.....one helmet, one helmet plus luggage, etc... The rest will change on the fly.

I went and looked at a 2017 1200 GS triple black with wire spoke wheels. It is a sharp bike for sure that no doubt would be a blast to ride. I just couldn't get past the thought of the keyless ignition leaving me stranded in some remote place. Probably just in my head but I remember the ring antennae problems. It is the most comparable bike to a new Tenere ES but costs $6400 more than the Cobalt Blue Tenere ES sitting at my local dealer.

In the end the decision was easy for me to make.......I put a deposit on the Tenere yesterday. Now I'm waiting on funds to settle and a check to be cut (thanks Teck Resourses). Hope to ride it to Big Bend. May not have luggage yet so I might look like the Beverly Hillbillies......but I kinda do anyway.
Mike

usedtobefast said:

Also, as I toggled between Dynamic/Road/Rain I did not see that big a difference in power. I see no issue with riding it in Dynamic all the time.

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That's because it doesn't change how much power is created. It changes how it's delivered (think how far you must twist the throttle to add power) and how quickly traction control kicks in. You could ride in Dynamic mode all the time, but as Tom points out, one trip down a slick road will make you a believer about Rain mode.

acedantinne said:

RT must be stopped & running with rider on seat to adjust the suspension. U can feel the bike go up & down as U make the adjustments.
There is a lot of difference between the driver modes, Dynamic/Road/Rain. Fuel mileage for 1. The Rain mode keeps the rear wheel under control & works great.
Again U have to be stopped to select the modes.

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Must be stopped and running to adjust preload (suspension height), but suspension settings (hard/normal/soft) and modes for traction control (Dynamic/Road/Rain) can be adjusted on the fly.