How much drag on the ST 1300 brakes?

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How much drag should I have on the ST 1300 brakes. The dealer change my rear brakes at 32,000 miles last year (first replacement). I did a complete fluid flush this winter (the entire procedure). The flush really firmed up the rear foot brake pedal. Today I changed the front tire and front brakes 33,000 miles (first replacement) (EBC). The bike feels fine if I push it or ride it. However if I give the rear wheel a spin the back tire rotates about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn before it stops. The front wheel has about twice as much drag and maybe makes 1/8 to 1/4 turn if I spin it. How much drag should I have? Is this normal? I never paid any attention to this until I changed my front brakes today. I guess I'll check the Wing tomorrow and see what it feels like. I thought my front wheel moved freer in the past.
 

Byron

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It doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with the rear wheel. When there is a problem it generally locks up the rear wheel altogether.
 

CYYJ

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...if I give the rear wheel a spin the back tire rotates about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn before it stops.
That's the same behaviour I have on my ST 1300, so I think you are normal.

The front wheel has about twice as much drag and maybe makes 1/8 to 1/4 turn if I spin it.
My front wheel will spin quite freely, easily one complete rotation. I am not an expert on brakes, but I kind of suspect your front wheel should rotate more freely that what you have reported.

Michael
 
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How much drag should I have on the ST 1300 brakes. The dealer change my rear brakes at 32,000 miles last year (first replacement). I did a complete fluid flush this winter (the entire procedure). The flush really firmed up the rear foot brake pedal. Today I changed the front tire and front brakes 33,000 miles (first replacement) (EBC). The bike feels fine if I push it or ride it. However if I give the rear wheel a spin the back tire rotates about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn before it stops. The front wheel has about twice as much drag and maybe makes 1/8 to 1/4 turn if I spin it. How much drag should I have? Is this normal? I never paid any attention to this until I changed my front brakes today. I guess I'll check the Wing tomorrow and see what it feels like. I thought my front wheel moved freer in the past.
If you flick the rear tire with you foot in an attempt to spin it as fast as you can, you should get at least 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 revolutions or more out of it before it stops. Assuming this is the method you used to spin the wheel, what you saw out of the rear wheel is not normal. The inability to even get a full revolution out of the rear tire is what I experienced when my secondary master cylinder (SMC) was going bad (it can be other things causing it as well).

There can be problems with using EBC pads. Read this thread:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?122621-Aftermarket-Brake-Pads


There are a ton of brake threads on the site. Just do a search on SMC and/or EBC and you might see some threads that give you an idea how to proceed:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?132783-Binding-Rear-brake-fixed-But-how


Something doesn't sound right with your front wheel either.
 

dduelin

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If I use my foot to push down on the rear wheel it easily rotates 1.5 to 2 turns. When it turns just .75 to 1 turn it's dragging a bit and time to clean the caliper pistons and lightly grease the caliper sliding pins. Front is more or less the same. I've had the rear dragging like that (less than 1.5 turns) and rapidly wore out the rear pads (8000 miles, normally is 18,000 for me) and overheated the rotor.
 
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Brake fluid is hydroscopic, and absorbed water will cause corrosion inside the calipers and sometimes brake lines. I tried to rebuild my Guzzi brake calipers (well, I did the whole system) but ended up replacing them - the pits and corrosion were too deep and the calipers were too far gone by the time I bought the bike.

Your bike is an '07 - that makes it about 9 years old. How often have you changed the brake (and clutch) fluid? Might lack of routine maintenance be showing its ugly head here? From what I've read, the secondary master cylinder is sensitive and often the cause of problems such as you describe.
 
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dhuber
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My ST is an 05. The only problems I've had up to this point is the rear brake pedal did not feel right from day one. I took it in twice under warranty and they told me that's they way it is. Last winter I had the bike plastic off and I flushed all fluid (This was the first flush (~32,000 miles). The brake pedal firmed up like it had never been before. I know the rear wheel feels about the same it always has. The front wheel definitely does not feel right. I will do more trouble shooting. Thanks!
 

Igofar

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The EBC pads will make the rear wheel drag. Pads too thick and will not allow pistols proper movement. Use OEM pads.
 

treemuncher

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I had the same drag problems on my '07. The solution was to fix the SMC and to bleed thd system thoroughly and properly.

The only way that I could get the bleeding done 100% was to use a vacuum tool as well as pumping the levers with the conventional method. Be sure to follow the correct bleed sequence. Done correctly, there should be minimal residual drag.
 

Igofar

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My ST is an 05. The only problems I've had up to this point is the rear brake pedal did not feel right from day one. I took it in twice under warranty and they told me that's they way it is. Last winter I had the bike plastic off and I flushed all fluid (This was the first flush (~32,000 miles). The brake pedal firmed up like it had never been before. I know the rear wheel feels about the same it always has. The front wheel definitely does not feel right. I will do more trouble shooting. Thanks!
In all honesty, most dealerships don't really know a heck of a lot about these bikes. I have had at least a half dozen, brand new, off the showroom floor, or out of the crate, ST1300's appear in my driveway because the brakes just never felt right from the get go! You have to understand, that most of these bikes sit in the warehouse or showrooms for a couple years before they are sold, and the fluids already need replacing.
The last 2012 I opened up had brake and clutch fluid that looked like jello!
 
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dhuber
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Just a follow up. The issue was the EMC brakes was that they did not line up perfectly parallel with the rotor. I drove about 100 miles and removed the caliper. I could see a new surface forming at one side of the pad. After about 500 miles there are no issues what so ever. The new brake pads just needed to seat to the rotor. I will probably use Honda brakes next time.
 
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