Engine only will idle

2001 1100 inactive for 18 months

Will now only idle with choke full on.

Soon as throttle is cracked, engine dies.

Tried to remove carbs. Big snag.

Right front card screw inaccessible. Can't get a tool on the frame to engine bolt to remove triangular upper mounting plate which would enable access to the carb boot clamp screw.

FUDGE.

Re: PAN PAN PAN, Engine only will idle

If you have the gas tank out you can, if you forget to loosen the clamps (Recognize that I would *never* do such a thing!), put a pry under the carbs and lever them off using the cross bar as a fulcrum.
I broke a shovel handle doing it one time; but, they came off

Re: PAN PAN PAN, Engine only will idle

You might be able to rotate the clamps manually (e.g. prying with the end of a screwdriver) so you can access the screws. I know what you mean by the right front clamp rotating, I've had my carbs apart a fair bit recently, and that right front is the only one where the clamp doesn't have any positive locating lug to stop it spinning, so you need to apply just enough force to the screwdriver to turn the screw without rotating the clamp when you tighten it back up. It should be positioned so the screw head is projecting back to the right about 45 degrees, then you can reach it easily.

Re: PAN PAN PAN, Engine only will idle

TerryS said:

You might be able to rotate the clamps manually (e.g. prying with the end of a screwdriver) so you can access the screws. I know what you mean by the right front clamp rotating, I've had my carbs apart a fair bit recently, and that right front is the only one where the clamp doesn't have any positive locating lug to stop it spinning, so you need to apply just enough force to the screwdriver to turn the screw without rotating the clamp when you tighten it back up. It should be positioned so the screw head is projecting back to the right about 45 degrees, then you can reach it easily.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. The main problem is the right front carb boot clamp screw is on tight, on the front side of the carb, buried with the screw head facing right, the 3 o'clock position. The instrument console fairing obstructs the view, the engine upper mounting plate totally obstructs inserting a screw driver straight in from the side. It's like that carb clamp was put on before the engine was installed in the frame. I'm gonna try loosening the other 3 clamps and muscle this carb out of the boot. I will give it a shot and see if it will rotate to a more favorable position.

I sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner and was able to get the bike to respond to throttle movement, but it drops off under 1300 rpm, but will run without the choke on by manually priming the left rear carb.

This machine only has 26000 miles on it. My question now is why won't it idle with the throttle on the stop?

Ok, after edgumacating myself with the honda manual, come to find I need the common service manual which I don't have yet.

So, best guess is to enrichen all the pilot screw settings and then do the synchronization. By the end of today, the bike shouldn't run as all. Hah, hah. It's a hondie work in progress or whifferdeal to those who fly.

Anyone put in a Factory Pro carb kit?

Classic case of plugged up pilot jets. They'll need to come out for reaming and cleaning or be replaced.

Re: PAN PAN PAN, Engine only will idle

TerryS said:

You might be able to rotate the clamps manually (e.g. prying with the end of a screwdriver) so you can access the screws. I know what you mean by the right front clamp rotating, I've had my carbs apart a fair bit recently, and that right front is the only one where the clamp doesn't have any positive locating lug to stop it spinning, so you need to apply just enough force to the screwdriver to turn the screw without rotating the clamp when you tighten it back up. It should be positioned so the screw head is projecting back to the right about 45 degrees, then you can reach it easily.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the shoulders to cry on fellow Americans.
****'of dunnit without your help.

Did eventually see thru the tear drops and blood. Removed the pocket panels and used a flex shaft screw driver, lo and behold, then with a mighty cracked from above, used a small ballpeen hammer handle being careful to pry on only the carb bodies, popped em outta there.

Pulled the pilot jets out, 38s and the main jets 125. Going with the 40s and 130 jets on the mains and adjustable new needles. Set of Delkevic pipes should make these jets and needles perform well.

The main jet holders were brown with barnacles. The floats and seats appear to be healthy, but the bowl gaskets have given up the ghost and look like tape worms.

Thanks for your most gracious time. Pics to follow.