No spark no fuel won't start

Hi I'm new to the forum and just got my first st1300 not running at the moment. I have went thru the harness and rebuilt the alternator replaced fuel pump and she won't start .any input is greatly appreciated thanks.

I'm no diagnostician but more details would be needed for someone who is to help. The year and mileage and how long it's been sitting might be useful. Listing of symptoms is mandatory. Nothing happens when you push the starter? Starter spins but engine doesn't start? Does the clock reset every time you try to start the bike? Do you hear the fuel pump wake up when you turn on the key before trying to start the engine? What's the condition of the battery? Could mice have dined on wiring? (Yes it's a thing!)

Details help people who know what they're talking about help you and save time by them not suggesting things you've already tried. Welcome aboard and good luck with your quest.

Kill switch?

Motor turns over all gauges and lights operate as they should kill switch shuts off pump as normall. I'm thinking cmp sensor or ckp sensor. All fuses good voltage and ohms checked all fuses to hot side of battery. Checked all grounds for good ground ohms checked good any thoughts on this. F1 light flashes 9 but air box out so that should clear when air box is installed . Bike should start without it any input on this much appreciated thanks.

No mice as I have just put the alternator back on plus throttle body. Have just installed a new fuel pump and it operates when key is turned on and shuts of after a couple of seconds have fuel at the rail. Don't ask how I know oops.fuel on driveway. Fuel regulator hose disconnected.I think there is no spark and no fuel reaching plugs. Either didn't even get a response

Ok this is the latest update. I checked the ckp sensor and only get 0.2 v, so hence the no spark. I changed the ecu and still the same results.
1 I have 2 bad Ecu's
2 the power supplied to that part of ecu is bellow spec.
3 or I'm screwed
I don't know where the power for this is supplied from,so if any of the gurus on here can shed some light on this, that would be great.any help on this would be appreciated.Its been 6 months and I'm still not ridding my st please help me get on the road. thanks in advance.

Sounds like your ECU is working, the code 9 is for that little air temp sensor in the roof of the air box. No doubt you have disconnected that. A bad crank or cam position sensor should throw a trouble code. Did I understand that you had removed and replaced the alternator? If so, any possibility you missed an electrical or vacuum connector somewhere?

It is possible I keep checking and can't see anything disconnected as for the air box I have the the top of the air box plugged in and still shows ect,iat, ckp and knock sensor codes.thanks for the input good suggestions . I will look again Does anybody know what the cold crank amps needed to fire this beast up. As the bat I have is only 173 and maybe that could be the problem just throwing that out there.

and yes I did just have the alt out and rebuilt it

Little mate said:

It is possible I keep checking and can't see anything disconnected as for the air box I have the the top of the air box plugged in and still shows ect,iat, ckp and knock sensor codes.thanks for the input good suggestions . I will look again Does anybody know what the cold crank amps needed to fire this beast up. As the bat I have is only 173 and maybe that could be the problem just throwing that out there.

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I measured about 125 amps on mine, standard temperature, cold engine.

Have you checked that the battery voltage stays above 10 while cranking?

--Mark

take the sensor off the top of the rib box and plug it in that way you can also eliminate that as the cause.

Little mate said:

It is possible I keep checking and can't see anything disconnected as for the air box I have the the top of the air box plugged in and still shows ect,iat, ckp and knock sensor codes.thanks for the input good suggestions . I will look again Does anybody know what the cold crank amps needed to fire this beast up. As the bat I have is only 173 and maybe that could be the problem just throwing that out there.

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Yeah, if you so much as turn the key on momentarily with the sensor unplugged, that code will be immediately set. Not sure if plugging the sensor back in will turn off the MIL or not, you may have to manually clear the ECM memory. The procedure, using the red diagnostic connector under the passenger seat, is in the shop manual.

Is that the bat ratting or did you take a reading

Little mate said:

I have just put the alternator back on plus throttle body.

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Does this mean that you've removed & reinstalled the fuel injector sub-harness?
If so take a look at this post from a few years ago, having to do with mis-plugging the fuel injector sub-harness during reinstall.

Thanks Anna's dad for the link that will be checked in the morning and all the others who gave advice I will check bat voltage wile cranking and I did plug the sensor in and cleared codes but they came right back after trying to start her.

Just had a quick check and discovered I have fuel. I unplugged 1 of the injectors and turned ignition on to check voltage. And guess what you can't do that. Smart bike shuts of the pump. Reconnected and cranked it and I got a whiff of that stuff they call gas so now where is the spark that is now on the list. know rain has stopped play. I have a correction it is a 03 I have not a o4 as I stated previously.

Ok now for the latest update. Checked bank angle relay and found it was not working,switched it with a good relay and still not working. So I bypassed the bank angle sensor and the f1 light went out. Checked relay again not working.i then checked for voltage on the black wire ah ha I only got .2 volts so traced that back to guess what. The kill switch, so checked that and it was good but the black wire from kill switch has a short. Good that I found that hope that was the problem. Yep you guys did say check the kill switch, but I could swear that when it was off the pump didn't work.

Little mate said:

The kill switch, so checked that and it was good but the black wire from kill switch has a short.

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If you're going to start mucking around with the electrics on the ST1300, then you should avail yourself of the free full color Wiring Schematic located in the Articles section of this website.

Download the appropriate Wiring Schematic to your computer, then view the schematic with your favorite .PDF viewer.
The schematic can be enlarged, rotated, and printed to the size or scale that best suits your needs.
No earthly reason to struggle with the shop manual B&W schematic.

Anna'sDad said:

If you're going to start mucking around with the electrics on the ST1300, then you should avail yourself of the free full color Wiring Schematic located in the Articles section of this website.

Click to expand...

+1
Generously donated by Anna'sDad!

Thank you again.