Wheel removal on ST1300 ABS

​I haven't removed the front or rear wheels on my ST yet. I'm sure there is a thread addressing this issue, can someone direct me to it. I have look some on this site, but could not find it. Thanks for any help I get. :bow1:

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?86124-ST1300-Wheel-Removal&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwi0_IbIpfTNAhUHFx4KHdW2Aa4QFggGMAE&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNEO_4kfJrUsw3u5rbHt3qS_O_3mDQ

Don't know if this link will work. (Yes it does work. I tested it. Duh!)
Otherwise at the very top of the St-Owners page you will see a Google custom search box.
Type in ST1300 wheel removal.
Scroll past the ads and it was the 2nd thread that showed up.
Mellow has posted links to a winki site that has step by step instructions.
There are many more. This will get you started.

ST1300 Owners Manual
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?99560-ST1300-Owners-Manual

Easy to do. Just follow the instructions in the hotlinks. Some small nuggets gained from 12 years of experience:

Front wheel, loosen the fender bolts so you can get the wheel /tire combo off/on with the bike on the centerstand and the front elevated. Loosen everything prior to elevating. Hang the brake calipers from the lower triple with wire. Take special note of which side each spacer lives. Lube the caliper mount bearings on the SMC side with waterproof grease. I reuse the caliper bolts after cleaning and applying blue Loctite. Be sure to check your steering head bearings while the front end is elevated. Torque everything once the wheel is installed and back on the ground. Take special note of the sequence of torqueing the pinch bolts.

Rear wheel, make sure you have some snap ring pliers and moly 60 paste before you start. Place bike on centerstand and be sure the bike is in gear. It helps to have another set of hands. Pull out the driven hub and lube the internals every tire change, this also applies to the splines. I reuse the brake stop pin after cleaning and application of blue Loctite. Torque everything down once the wheels are on the ground.

Both wheels: Inspect all bearings. Be extremely careful with all of your ABS wiring, sensors, pulse rings, etc. and do not put tension on the wiring.

At the risk of setting off a firestorm ......

Many times I seen the advice "to support the brake calipers with wire whenever they are removed" for tire changes. I have usually followed the advice, too. But, I have to question why this practice is recommended. So, I'm asking:

• What harm can come from a caliper hanging it's rather insignificant weight on its hydraulic hose?
• Is the hose that is designed to withstand and transmit considerable hydraulic pressure incapable of supporting the weight of a caliper?

I will grant that the practice of supporting the caliper with a stiff wire or bungee isn't harmful. But is it necessary? Is it just to keep the caliper from dangling into a position where it could be damaged by something else during the tire swap?

motofisch said:

At the risk of setting off a firestorm ......

Many times I seen the advice "to support the brake calipers with wire whenever they are removed" for tire changes. I have usually followed the advice, too. But, I have to question why this practice is recommended. So, I'm asking:

• What harm can come from a caliper hanging it's rather insignificant weight on its hydraulic hose?
• Is the hose that is designed to withstand and transmit considerable hydraulic pressure incapable of supporting the weight of a caliper?

I will grant that the practice of supporting the caliper with a stiff wire or bungee isn't harmful. But is it necessary? Is it just to keep the caliper from dangling into a position where it could be damaged by something else during the tire swap?

Click to expand...

I do it mainly because it is habit, to avoid tension on the ABS wires and to get them out of the way. I have heard that it is hard on the brake lines to let them hang, but have seen nothing from a credible source.

Thanks for all the input. I will give it a try, maybe!!!

ts

motofisch said:

At the risk of setting off a firestorm ......

Many times I seen the advice "to support the brake calipers with wire whenever they are removed" for tire changes. I have usually followed the advice, too. But, I have to question why this practice is recommended. So, I'm asking:

• What harm can come from a caliper hanging it's rather insignificant weight on its hydraulic hose?
• Is the hose that is designed to withstand and transmit considerable hydraulic pressure incapable of supporting the weight of a caliper?

I will grant that the practice of supporting the caliper with a stiff wire or bungee isn't harmful. But is it necessary? Is it just to keep the caliper from dangling into a position where it could be damaged by something else during the tire swap?

Click to expand...

I've read in various car shop manuals that letting the caliper hang can damage the hose. Manufacturer's instructions. I would infer from this that the hose is designed to withstand pressures from within, but not necessarily tension on the hose itself - especially the end fittings.

jmcarruth said:

I have heard that it is hard on the brake lines to let them hang, but have seen nothing from a credible source.

Click to expand...

The Honda service manual explicitly states "support the brake calipers with wire whenever they are removed" (or words to that effect) - I don't know why Honda put that warning in the manual, but I can only assume they had a good reason to do so.

Michael

I always push two small pieces of wood (slightly thicker than the rotor) between the brake pads as each caliper (left and right) is slid out and freed from their mounting points.
This keeps them spread while you do the rest of the work you plan to do and once you are ready to slip the calipers back to their respective mount points pull the wood chips and they will slip in with ease. My wood sticks are about an inch and a half wide by three inches long. I wrap them in foil tape and mark them so i'm reminded they are a tool.

Fortunet 1 said:

I always push two small pieces of wood (slightly thicker than the rotor) between the brake pads as each caliper (left and right) is slid out and freed from their mounting points.
This keeps them spread while you do the rest of the work you plan to do and once you are ready to slip the calipers back to their respective mount points pull the wood chips and they will slip in with ease. My wood sticks are about an inch and a half wide by three inches long. I wrap them in foil tape and mark them so i'm reminded they are a tool.

Click to expand...

Now THAT is a good idea!

Fortunet 1 said:

My wood sticks are about an inch and a half wide by three inches long.

Click to expand...

...

My ST buddy made a wooden stand for Igofar that's placed next to the wheel and the caliper sits down on a vertical piece no muss no fuss with the pads appropriately held in check.

motofisch said:

At the risk of setting off a firestorm ......

Click to expand...

Every shop service manual that I've seen for autos or bikes says to support the calipers independently of the hoses. Now, this is not an exhaustive survey, limited to Saab, Ford, Toyota, Honda, M Guzzi, GMC, and only one or two models in each, but consider something. Our lives can depend on the brakes stopping the bike (car) in a hurry under some circumstances. It makes sense to take all possible precautions to prevent damage to a part (the hose and its connections) that might fail due to minor abuse.

I would agree that for fresh, new hoses you can probably get away with letting them hang from the hose (note my qualifier). The one that fails will be the 15 year old, stiff, cracked hose that should have been replaced years ago. Do you really want to test fate with something so easy?

One more point. There are a LOT of shop practices that are routinely ignored. My favorite in all the manuals is to work with clean parts and in a scrupulously clean environment. Ever see the neighborhood mechanic working on your engine? How about stuffing rags into all engine openings when checking the valve clearances? Of course you need not do this. Did you read the thread about the guy who dropped a shim into a cylinder and started the engine? All these procedures grow from somebody's hard earned 'wisdom'.