Help with fork disassembly

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Im changing the fork seals on my 2003 ST1300 and when we got to removing the fork socket bolt on the bottom of the forks I cant loosen it. We have tried longer wrenches and neither side will come loose. What am I missing? any advice?

Thanks Jeff
 
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I have not had mine out yet. But I see in the service manual (15-28) there is lock tight on the bolt but the torque shows only 14 ft lb. so it should be doable.
 

dduelin

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Are the fork tubes turning when you try to loosen the fork socket bolts or are you saying the tubes are not turning and the socket bolts resist all efforts to loosen them? You might have to reinstall the springs and torque the damping rod into the fork cap to break them loose.
 
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I agree with Dave's comments above. The only thing holding the bolts in, is Loctite. If the cartridge assembly is spinning inside the fork, the best thing you can do is pull up hard on the damper rod, which will pull the compression valve (which is what the bolt threads in to) hard against the circlip and give a little more friction to stop it turning.

It is not unknown for all methods to fail, which means you may need to drill the head off the bolt.
 
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The tube is not turning the bolt just won't break loose.
OK, so if I'm reading you correctly the problem isn't that the bolt keeps spinning without coming loose (the usual problem, in which case air tools are the next step), but rather you can't apply enough torque to get it to turn at all. If that's the case, shoot some PB Blaster into there, let it sit a while and try again. If that doesn't work get a longer breaker bar. If you're not using a hex bit and ratchet/breaker bar already, then you're using the wrong tools for the job, which may be why you aren't able to apply enough torque to break it loose.
 

Mark

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I had to take mine to a machine shop once because I couldn't get that puppy freed either... they charged a bit; but, it was done in a day...
 
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A little bit of heat and they finally broke loose. Just heated the head and with quite a bit of force, 12 inch breaker bar, they broke free.

Thanks all for the responses.

Jeff
 
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My advice is that now you have it apart, chase the threads out with a tap and run the bolt through a die so the threads are clean and free. I use a hint of blue Loctite when I reassemble these and have never had a problem with subsequent disassembly.
 
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I've never used Loctite on those bolts on any bike I've ever owned, it doesn't seem to be necessary. Given the tendency of the whole assembly to spin freely, fighting the additional resistance of a thread locking agent isn't something I care to deal with when trying to separate the bolt from the internals.
 
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Thanks, I'll clean the threads good and use a small amount of blue loctite just as reassurance. I'd hate to loose the fork oil 2K miles from home when a small amount would have prevented it. And now knowing its there it just takes a little heat to release.
 
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I meant to ask earlier, is it possible that a PO used red loctite on the threads? Given that heat appears to have made a difference it made me wonder. With blue you shouldn't need to use heat, but red definitely needs heat. I think there was some confusion because the Honda thread locking agent that doesn't require heat is red, so sometimes people used red loctite by mistake.
 

Byron

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My advice is that now you have it apart, chase the threads out with a tap and run the bolt through a die so the threads are clean and free. I use a hint of blue Loctite when I reassemble these and have never had a problem with subsequent disassembly.
I agree about cleaning the threads but don't use a tap and die set to do it. Doing so could produce too much play in the threads as the tap and die will remove metal that you really don't want removed. Simply clean the threads with a wire brush or use a thread chasing set. They will clean the threads without removing any metal, only debris.
 

T_C

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I agree about cleaning the threads but don't use a tap and die set to do it. Doing so could produce too much play in the threads as the tap and die will remove metal that you really don't want removed. Simply clean the threads with a wire brush or use a thread chasing set. They will clean the threads without removing any metal, only debris.
Just curious to where you find a chasing set. I've always used a tap/die. If the threads were properly formed to begin with, then no new metal will be removed unless the containment is so strongly attached it forces the tap or die to wander. Never experienced it myself, but always learning and growing.
 
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I'm no trained engineer or mechanic but I do have a degree of mechanical sympathy. My suggestion around the tap and die was to use these just to clear any lumps of old threadlock or burrs out of the threads. There is a big difference between forcing the die or tap to cut new threads, and simply rotating the fastener to clean the threads, and I can't imagine that the tool would damage or wear a good thread.

I have had the experience of the cartridge spinning inside the fork, and it is a PITA to rectify. Threads that are clean and engage without binding are a surefire way to avoid that.
 

Byron

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Just curious to where you find a chasing set. I've always used a tap/die. If the threads were properly formed to begin with, then no new metal will be removed unless the containment is so strongly attached it forces the tap or die to wander. Never experienced it myself, but always learning and growing.
I found mine at Sears, a Craftsman 48 piece thread chaser set Model # 971 2750. What I like about this set is it covers the most common SAE course and fine threads as well as metric. It also has a thread file for SAE and metric for more severely damaged external threads.

Craftsman Thread Chaser Set.jpg

Shop around as the same set is sold under different brands if you want to save a little money. Summit Racing sells it for less than Sears.

I'm not an engineer but my dad however taught me a few things. Without getting into all the details which I probably would mess up anyway you can look up thread classifications. Basically there are several classifications and they run the gamete from very precise or close fit of male and female threads to less so. Suffice it to say most inexpensive tap and die sets are ground for less precise clearances. That means that when you run the tap into a more precise thread it will remove metal and open up the threads. The same is true when you run a die over a bolt or screw. The parts will still fit but not as nice as they once would. The job of a thread chase tool is to remove debris without removing any metal. They are hardened and will reform a slightly damaged thread but without removing metal like a tap or die.

Like many of you I used to use tap and die sets to clean threads and did notice a sloppy fit afterwards. I have changed my ways though. :)

UPDATE: I just found that Sears sells two versions of this set. The first one I listed sells for about $80 but they also list another for under $50 here. The only thing I can think of is that the more expensive set is like the old Craftsman line of tools and the less expensive one is the newer line. I don't know what the exact differences are but they both appear to have the same exact warranty; if it ever breaks take it back for free replacement.
 
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Like many of you I used to use tap and die sets to clean threads and did notice a sloppy fit afterwards.
My limited experience on this topic agrees with yours, the fasteners seemed to loosen up a bit after using taps/dies. But they seemed to work normally anyway once they were snugged down. What I usually try first is a bolt/nut set with a penetrating oil like PB blaster.
 
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