Missed the 2005 , but snagged a 2008! :)

Hi there.....I recently posted a question about a bike on here and it was sold shortly after.....bummer. I'm ok with it because I got a sweet deal on a red 2008 with 34,000 km's on it.

Few questions for the group...

1. I feel a slight front wheel hop. (only going slower, highway is fine)It's like the tire is out of round , out of balance , or the springs are too stiff. I haven't really checked the steering stem bearings yet and I know about the upgrade to tapered bearings but would loose bearing cause what I'm feeling?
2. Which way do I turn the rear shock damper adjuster for a not so heavy rider? I get thrown off the seat when hitting bumps.I'm 170 and I'm sure the previous owner was pushing 200 lbs.
3. In one of the pics below , is that the service manual that I need for my bike? Are there certain ones for each country or all they all the same?
4. Is there a technique to get the bike on the center stand? I tried twice and can barely move it.
5. Anyone use synthetic oil in there engine? Would I need wet clutch compatible?
6. That motorized windshield is awesome! When it's high , i can't hear any wind noise at all! It does create a suction though like is talked about in here so I'll have to read up on the options.
7. I'll be getting to know the bike a little better in the next few months. It will be too cold to drive it in another month or so and I want to look it over. Anything to watch out for?
8. Any dislikes with the Kaoko throttle lock?

Any help is appreciated.......

Kevin

Congratulations on your by your new to you ST 1300. I know you will Love it. As far as your questions go I'll let the professionals chime in just wanted to say congratulations.

sabrekip said:

Congratulations on your by your new to you ST 1300. I know you will Love it. As far as your questions go I'll let the professionals chime in just wanted to say congratulations.

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Thank you!

Congrats! I'm a new ST owner also. I got the EU (UK?) manual that you show. It will do the job. A few conversions for torque etc. but the formulas are included in the manual. When ever I do something I write in the book. I tried to get it on the center stand today for the first time. chickened out and did the oil change on the side stand. Plenty of room for working. I know a lot of guys use Rotella oil. The book tells you to look for the energy symbol and AVOID it. Supposedly the additives are not good for wet clutch. I used 4 cycle MC oil and played it safe. I used a CarQuest oil filter not the Honda OEM filter. Probab;y a buck or so less $ but availability was an issue. Probably get a couple OEM filters for the next changes. Also you need to pick up a filter wrench. At least I'm going to make that investment for the next time. Anyone can chime in here for these recommendations, I am in no way and expert here. Just my .02 cents.

1) look the front tire over carefully. They can wear in strange patterns and cause "hop". Run your hand over the surface of the tread, sometimes you can feel it better than see it. I doubt stem bearing issue at the mileage.
2) counterclockwise to soften. There is a "normal" indicator, if I recall. The owner's manual tells how mant turns from bottoming out to start with.
3) that manual should be fine.
4) centerstand is easy. Don't ry to "lift" it, use your legs and push down on the lever on the centerstand. Unfold the "handle" alongside the seat to assist and in balancing. Lot easier than my Concours!
5) I always use synthetics. Currently using Mobil/Exxon Delvac 1 5w-40 (diesel oil-great stuff) but stay away from the "energy conserving" labeled stuff to avoid clutch slip. Rotella comes in many versions. T6 is full synthetic, typically 5w-40. T5 is semi-synthetic/blend. The 15-40 Rotella is conventional Dino oil.
6) love it!
7) same here. Winter is on the way. Geese are heading south. Going to ride as much as possible now in the cool weather before frosting starts. Gorgeous out now!
8) can't say, don't have one.

congrats on the new ride!!

4) The key here, as stated before is "don't try to lift it." Use your entire body weight down on the heel of the center stand. Then pull up a little on the handle... you're not so much lifting the bike by that handle as you are pushing down even harder on the heel of the center stand. With practice it should almost lift itself. (Then again, at 245 lbs. I have a little more... well... ballast than most people, so I'm sure that helps).

Thanks very much for the replies guys! I'll buy the manual and start getting familiar with my bike, I will have this baby for a long time! Lots of power , smooth acceleration and seems very comfortable to drive. My lower back pain hasn't been an issue yet....good sign.
I may go for the Russel day long saddle in the near future though just in case, we'll see.

PS.... I want "everyone's" opinion , not just the experts. The more information passed around here, the better for everyone.

thanks

Read the above posts and I'm not sure what manual was recommended. I think the Honda Service Manual is essential, having used the Haynes manuals for other bikes and cars over the years. Read em both, then start wrenching. I suggest you keep an eye on ebay and wait. Sooner or later you will see your model year manual for a reasonable price (less than half what a Honda dealer wants). You have a good manual now - no hurry.

Oil - Many years ago Consumer Reports tracked NY cabs for over a million miles and tore the engines down afterward. Their conclusion was that any brand oil meeting standard specifications provided all the lubrication that the engines needed when changed according to standard intervals. I have to assume the same is true for bikes. So go use what your wallet and conscience dictate.

Center stand. I had a hard time getting my bike up on the center stand and after a bit saw someone was selling a modified one on this website. His brother had cut off the 'foot' and welded in a 3" extension. This increased the leverage and makes getting my bike up on the stand something that even I can do regularly. Yes, technique is all - I was able to get the bike centered before swapping to the modified stand - but it is much easier with the extended 'foot'. Downside is the extension puts the stand's 'foot' up where a passenger's foot would be. I ride solo so no problem.

I love the throttlemeister - it is unobtrusive, provides enough friction so that the throttle is held at that setting for a minute or two, and then the bike starts coasting down. Just the way I like it. You might want a tighter lock - so you just turn the bar weight a bit and it locks the throttle firmly, but you can always just twist it closed. Other locks work great, but they either take up space or add something else to the handlebar. YMMV.

There will be no other bike in my future unless it has an electric windshield. (Yeah, never say never.....)

Enjoy your bike. I've never owned or ridden anything quite like my ST (well, a BMW or two came very close.....)

Congratulations on the new-to-you...

There's a stock windscreen on my '04 and I've never had a back pain issue. I believe the OO added riser blocks, so that may account for it.

The OEM saddle was not a real comfortable perch for me, and my (used) Sargent is only marginally better. After a half dozen hours I start getting squirmy, even with breaks every 90 - 120 minutes.

I've yet to read ANY negative comment about the Russell Day Long; it is what every other seat is compared against.

I don't know how the Pan European models differ from North American bikes so I don't know what differences you'll find between your bike and the Euro manual. Consensus view is that the Honda service manual is a better bet than the Haynes.

Start planning for your wintertime farkling rampage now. There are lots of things your fellow owners have thought of to do that will personalize the bike; which mods you choose to make are a matter of personal taste and priority.

Whatever they may be, short of making it into a bobber (oh, the horror!) or adding a turbo, you'll find (a) lots of advice and on the experiences of others and (b) these bikes modify easily, and well. It's not hard; even a novice like me can make many mods without adult supervision.

Do go through the bike thoroughly and carefully and baseline it:
* fluids checked (or better yet changed),
* tires inspected,
* valve clearances checked (if no evidence of this having been done it is worth doing, on the recommended schedule, at least once or twice so you know what is going on inside that magnificent engine), etc.

Whether you do these things yourself (fun and educational) or have a trusted local shop do them, it's really handy to keep a detailed service record for your own peace of mind if for no other reason.

Best wishes for thousands and thousands of happy riding miles.

Kevcules said:

Is there a technique to get the bike on the center stand?

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Have a look at this video that was made by DDuelin- a member of this forum.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0aLO8RpYbI

Andrew Shadow said:

Have a look at this video that was made by DDuelin- a member of this forum.

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Yup, perfect example. Notice that at the moment just before his bike goes over-center on the stand, his left foot (the one that is not on the stand) comes completely off the ground (at 0:53)... he is putting his entire weight down on the stand... there is very little lifting to be done when doing it right... with the handle you're just increasing the pressure down on the stand.
That is the key.

Lift not.
Stomp firmly.

I too hated the back pressure created with the stock screen in the full-up position. I recommend the aftermarket shields offered by Clear View and CalSci. Having owned both, (I broke the CV in a tip-over mishap) I can unequivocally state either is exceptionally better than stock by practically eliminating wind buffeting and back pressure. Moreover, you'll be thankful for the larger surface area during inclement weather. (I'm 5"10" and 190)

http://www.clearviewshields.com/motorcycle-windshield/honda/st1300-shields/

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/ST1300prod.html

Also, buy a set of High Blades!

http://www.MCL OUT OF BUSINESS - DO NOT ORDER/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_3&products_id=521

Good Luck

Congrats on a great buy!!! Red is the fastest!

You are getting great info here .......buy the factory manual.

Stomp don't lift.......

Seats are different, just like everyones rear ends....
no need for fancy oils, just keep it clean.
Your tire is probably shot.....buy a new one.
A simple throttle lock for $20 has worked for me for 35 years.

If you bike doesn't have them....I love the Honda wind deflectors

Congrats again and welcome from WA STate!!

ToddC

I have three of these and enjoy working on them as much as riding them.....:bow1:

Kevcules said:

1. I feel a slight front wheel hop. (only going slower, highway is fine)It's like the tire is out of round , out of balance , or the springs are too stiff. I haven't really checked the steering stem bearings yet and I know about the upgrade to tapered bearings but would loose bearing cause what I'm feeling?
2. Which way do I turn the rear shock damper adjuster for a not so heavy rider? I get thrown off the seat when hitting bumps.I'm 170 and I'm sure the previous owner was pushing 200 lbs.
Kevin

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#1 - the front tire is subject to a funny wear pattern called scalloping. It happens especially when the front tire is not kept at 42psi but also happens more gradually at the normal pressure. That would be my guess

#2 - besides the preload, the rear shock is adjustable for rebound damping. When I bought my ST, it was at the minimum setting from the prior owner and would buck a lot. Check that setting.

Wow guys! Awesome responses. Thanks very much.

I couldn't believe how easy that fella made it look to put the bike on the centerstand. I laughed out loud while watching.I think technique is certainly the way this needs to be done.I'll try it later today.

Very interesting options for windshields and highway pegs (blades) I must check into these over the winter so I can start the spring ready to go!

I think I'll go for the OEM manual then....I want an accurate description of everything I want to work on.

My front tire looks like new. I can't really see any defects and I'm thinking that it's such a small defect now ,but will lead into a really easily seen and felt ,improper tread wear. When I got the bike a week ago, the previous owner wasn't driving it much he said and tried to sell it for 6 previous months or so. When I got it home and checked the air pressure it was at 22 front and 18 rear! I'm guessing he wasn't a fan of checking air pressure......well I am! Up to 40lbs they both went. (book says 42 right? ) I'm hoping that because of his poor air pressure checking habits that the tire doesn't go bad quickly. I may just remove the tire and take it to have it re balanced, checked first though.....we'll see.

I'm thinking hard about getting the russel seat. If my seat is comfy, then hopefully my back wont hurt and I can drive for hrs. They have a guarantee as well which I'm surprised at....we'll see.

The previous owner had this bike checked often and told me he had a valve check done this spring. My friend talked to the mechanic he always went to and he said he was meticulous about his bike. Good news for me.

I think you're right on the oil subject. Todays oils are better than the past. I've been a fan of Amsoil though in all my vehicles and toys only for the longer change intervals (less time working on them) and more importantly , the ease of starting them in the extreme cold. It gets down to -40 Celcius with the wind chill here in the winter time and the synthetic oil doesn't get like molasses. My ST won't see that temp though unless you guys put studs in your tires?

Thanks again guys.....ride safe

With respect to the manual... I have two bikes right now, a PC800 and an ST1100P. On the PC800 I have the factory manual and it's great, especially for learning how to get all that Tupperware off in order to get to the things I need to work on. On the ST1100P I have a Clymers manual (and the OEM Police Addendum - mostly for the wiring diagrams), and I have to say, the Clymers manual is a much better guide. More photos, more diagrams, and more verbiage than the factory manual that Honda provides. It's over 600 pages, so I am taking it to a printer to have it drilled and the binding cut off so I can put it in a three-ring binder. I'll pull out the pages I need for the job at hand, photo-copy them and put them back in the binder... then I can work from the copies and get them as dirty and greasy as I want.

Just my $.02, again.
Jim

Kev what brand and model front tire is it? Some time ago there were serious issues with certain Dunlop tires where the was some tread separation and wheel hop going on. This is a very serious issue, or was, and could lead to catastrophic failure. There was also a recall from Dunlop on some specific date codes of these tires. Congrads on the new bike but DO make sure you do not have a defective tire. It should not hop or do anything else unusual.
That the pressures were low shows that the bike was sitting a while. They do leak air. They all do. Slowly. So stay on top of it. And shoot for 42 PSI cold unless you have a compelling reason not to. Please examine that tire completely, note the brand, and perhaps report back? I bought my 07 year with NEW old stock dunlop road smart tires. They were 7 years old and the dealer never should have installed tires that old on a bike.

Sorry you missed out in the '05. I hope you can learn to like the '08. :grin:

Certified non-expert here...

2. Something else to consider and a simple fix if needed is the rear shock preload adjuster. It's the small cylinder on the left (Port) side of the bike adjacent the rear shock. Unless maintained regularly (which they often aren't) they are almost always low or even empty. You know it's low or missing oil if you can screw the adjustment knob in several turns with no resistance. Usually 1-2 turns until some resistance is met indicates a full pre-load adjuster.

4. Getting the bike on the center stand is a chore for me. Putting all the weight on the stand via the right foot is the way to go. It helps me moving the bike back onto the stand if I hold the rear passenger rail instead of the handle. This way I'm not lifting at all. One other critical factor is-- tire pressure. Low tires been the bike has to rise higher to go onto the stand. Honda recommend 42lbs for both tire. That may not serve everybody well depending on riding styles and tire but it seems to work for a lot of us. It definitely helps with center-standing the bike.

5. Oil preference is a hot top with a lot of differing opinions. I use Rotella T-6 Synthetic and have been changing it at traditionally short intervals but will increase them to something beyond factory recommendations. Diesel oils (synthetic or dino) are popular with many members and is my preference. As everybody says: avoid oils with "energy efficient" labeling as they won't play nice with a wet clutch.

6. The motorized windshield is the best! But when the tracks or drive gear go it's an expensive replacement. The "tracks" can be rotated with some success but when one track or the gear is shot look at a small bucket of money to pay for a repair. (Somebody here was making a replacement gear but they may no longer be available. Honda doesn't sell the gear separately.)

You want to keep its tracks clean and lubed (white lithium grease?). Try to find a Set and Forget height so you're not operating it a lot. If possible don't operate it at speed as air pressure loads the windshield and by extension the motor and related bits. Someone here made a great list of do's and don'ts about the operation. One of them was not moving it above 35 or 55mph. I don't recall exactly. Just be aware that it's drive train is far from bulletproof.

9. Yeah there was no 9 in your post but this is probably the most important bit-- farkles. You'll need to do some/many since you apparently have actual seasons and mandatory downtime. An easy one might be an angled valve stem extension from a BMW motorcycle shop. (Thank you Igofar!) Screw it on to fill your tires and remove it when done. I hate putting air in the ST but love the handling after I do.

The tires are Bridgestone Battlax and are in very good shape. I hope the front is just out of balance.

I'll remember that about the windshield, good to know. How do I access the gear and tracks? Does the windshield have to come off?

Thanks guys....

Kevcules said:

The tires are Bridgestone Battlax and are in very good shape. I hope the front is just out of balance.

I'll remember that about the windshield, good to know. How do I access the gear and tracks? Does the windshield have to come off?

Thanks guys....

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Great! good luck with the bike!