What mm allen is the top fork tube nut? I'm guessing around 23mm? Anyone know? I really don't want to purchase one for a one time use.
LeeU
Casa Grande, AZ:bow1:
LeeU
Casa Grande, AZ:bow1:
Front Fork Tube Socket Size?
- Thread starter LeeU
- Start date
17mm as I remember. You can get it at Autozone, etc. 1/2"drive in a set of 3.
Do yourself a favor and loosen the top pinch bolt before trying to break the cap loose.
The 1100 uses the same size, I have a 3/8" drive version where the square 3/8 drive is basically cut out of the larger 17mm hex driver portion. Bought it so long ago I can't remember, but I thought it was used for something on Volkswagens at the time. It was very cheap.
HF set of nine #4 thru 17 $9.99 with the right coupon. Yes the 17 is what you need. Others are needed elsewhere on the bike. Tools are an investment and last a long time. My :tc1: But then I'm a tool geek and attend the meetings. Can loan you one, but CG to Tempe to CG 2X and you can purchase for less.
OP
OP
Bought the set at HF, includes the 17mm.
Thanks,
LeeU
Thanks,
LeeU
OP
OP
I had about 1-2oz of fork fluid leak out of the left fork seal. I repaired it with stiff plastic piece inserted into the seal. Need to remove the fork tube 17mm nut to top off the fluid. I have a problem now, can't get the risers off the triple tree, I think they are lock tighted , I have to pull the front tire for replacement and will lower the tube and access it that way.
:LeeU
:LeeU
So are you saying the risers are blocking access to the 17mm hex on top of the fork? The stock risers shouldn't interfere, so I'm guessing you have aftermarket risers?
If you pull the fork and try to break the 17mm cap loose off the bike, you'll have trouble breaking it loose while holding the tube in your hand, so an impact wrench works better in that case. If you don't have an impact wrench, then you'll need to secure the tube somehow, maybe by putting it back in the lower triple clamp and tightening the lower bolts. I've never had the problem you have, so I can't help with alternative suggestions, perhaps others may have some ideas.
edit: I wasn't sure when you said you'll lower the tube if you meant remove it from the bike, or just lower it below the top triple clamp. I think if you lower it just below the top clamp and tighten the lower pinch bolts that should give access to the top of the fork to break the cap loose.
Last edited:
A couple of things to consider...
You will have to remove the fork tube from the bike to position the fork tube straight up and down to assure the correct measurement of fork oil.
If you do a lot of fork seal replacements, such as helping other folks, you may want to do what I did, and get a triple tree from a salvage yard to use as a fork tube vice.
I can lock it into my vice in two different positions, for removing the fork tube cap and bottom assembly bolt, or so that both tubes are straight up and down, for draining/filling/pumping air out etc.
For folks with "plate type" risers, you can simply slide the tube down a couple inches, then lock it in place with the lower yoke, then use an allen key and a box end wrench or socket to remove the cap.
On PD bikes with aftermarket plate risers, it is much faster and easier, to remove the tubes and work on them in a vice, than it is to remove wiring, radios, and such.
.02
You will have to remove the fork tube from the bike to position the fork tube straight up and down to assure the correct measurement of fork oil.
If you do a lot of fork seal replacements, such as helping other folks, you may want to do what I did, and get a triple tree from a salvage yard to use as a fork tube vice.
I can lock it into my vice in two different positions, for removing the fork tube cap and bottom assembly bolt, or so that both tubes are straight up and down, for draining/filling/pumping air out etc.
For folks with "plate type" risers, you can simply slide the tube down a couple inches, then lock it in place with the lower yoke, then use an allen key and a box end wrench or socket to remove the cap.
On PD bikes with aftermarket plate risers, it is much faster and easier, to remove the tubes and work on them in a vice, than it is to remove wiring, radios, and such.
.02
Last edited: