moddy
the mod
Disassembled and tested, all parameters passed. That's the short version(pun alert).
The long version is from section 17 of the Honda manual with a voltmeter:
Continuity between all yellow ac leads at the stator. They are supposed to be one continuous wire, after one group of 3 leads are soldered together. At the other end, the set of 3 wires extend to the p2 and p3 connector from the stator.
Continuity between the white and black wire at connections on the cap.
2.9 ohms between the white and black wire with a parameter of no more than 4 ohms
.4 ohms between all of the yellow wires from the stator with a parameter of no more than 1 ohm.
In conclusion, this is a viable unit with a need for replacing the external wires from the cap to the p2 and p3 connector.
And now, some pictures.
First picture-Do support it like this for removal after the 3 screws have been removed under the resin. It is all connected as a unit shown in the 2nd picture.
If you accidentally fumble what you're holding, like I did, two of the three solder leads will break away for you as shown in picture 3. The black tube is quite heavy and shouldn't be set down without supporting it's weight from inside the stator. It will flex at it's connection. (like it did when I fumbled it.)
Fortunately, they broke away nicely and will only need to be soldered again for reassembly.
I also forgot to mention from the time I pulled the cap off of the back of the alternator, revealing the stator wires, I would place it on a towel when not handling it. The enamel of the wire has a protective coating baked on to prevent the wires from chaffing under vibration and causing a short, so you don't want the enamel to come off.
Lastly, rewiring. The only perceivable way of doing this is to the tabs in the back, that come out of the cap because the black, copper-wound tube is connected directly to the plastic housing where the stator wires come out.
Careful what you decided you'll clean out the resin with as the housing the resin is stuck to is plastic. It is no wonder, at this stage, why this alternator wasn't designed to be opened again. The thought of winding this stator for the reward if it's lower output compared to '96 and later models could only be perceived if there wasn't another stator available on this planet.
The long version is from section 17 of the Honda manual with a voltmeter:
Continuity between all yellow ac leads at the stator. They are supposed to be one continuous wire, after one group of 3 leads are soldered together. At the other end, the set of 3 wires extend to the p2 and p3 connector from the stator.
Continuity between the white and black wire at connections on the cap.
2.9 ohms between the white and black wire with a parameter of no more than 4 ohms
.4 ohms between all of the yellow wires from the stator with a parameter of no more than 1 ohm.
In conclusion, this is a viable unit with a need for replacing the external wires from the cap to the p2 and p3 connector.
And now, some pictures.
First picture-Do support it like this for removal after the 3 screws have been removed under the resin. It is all connected as a unit shown in the 2nd picture.
If you accidentally fumble what you're holding, like I did, two of the three solder leads will break away for you as shown in picture 3. The black tube is quite heavy and shouldn't be set down without supporting it's weight from inside the stator. It will flex at it's connection. (like it did when I fumbled it.)
Fortunately, they broke away nicely and will only need to be soldered again for reassembly.
I also forgot to mention from the time I pulled the cap off of the back of the alternator, revealing the stator wires, I would place it on a towel when not handling it. The enamel of the wire has a protective coating baked on to prevent the wires from chaffing under vibration and causing a short, so you don't want the enamel to come off.
Lastly, rewiring. The only perceivable way of doing this is to the tabs in the back, that come out of the cap because the black, copper-wound tube is connected directly to the plastic housing where the stator wires come out.
Careful what you decided you'll clean out the resin with as the housing the resin is stuck to is plastic. It is no wonder, at this stage, why this alternator wasn't designed to be opened again. The thought of winding this stator for the reward if it's lower output compared to '96 and later models could only be perceived if there wasn't another stator available on this planet.
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