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Thread: ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

  1. #91
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    Re: ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Ride52 View Post
    Yep, all the goo cleaned away and the new one is on, just have to fill and bleed, check for leaks and button up the plastic. You were absolutely right about the crush washers, no way they would stay put without the Vaseline! Not with my fumbly thumbs for sure. Probably saved an hour of frustration and expletives! I'm as adventurous as the next guy, enjoy a challenge and I love to fix things but......I would have hated to wade into this one cold and clueless! This forum is an invaluable resource, but you guys already know that. Thanks Pete!

    Danny
    You are most welcome Danny - so glad it worked out for you.

    Cheers,

    Pete
    The harder I work, the luckier I get.

  2. #92
    Gino nt650hawk's Avatar
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    Re: ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

    hmmmm. after looking at that image I my change my mind and order up a new one. I was thinking of just getting the new oil seals. Butttttt......

    I will be ordering a new one and new oil seals. In whatever free time I have, i'll thoroughly clean the one removed and rebuild it as a backup.

  3. #93
    SoCal Lane Splitting Commuter SupraSabre's Avatar
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    Re: ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by MaxPete View Post
    ...

    Supra - glad you got at least one of them done.
    I'm not done yet... This weekend!
    Bob - STOC 5901 -- >300K Miles on ST1300s - ZERO Tipovers
    2012 ST1300 -14,000 miles, 2010 - 65,000 miles , 2006 -Basketcase
    2004 ST1300 X2/#1 - 37,000 -needs waterpump & #2 30,000 miles
    2005 ST1300 - 174,300 miles - sold

  4. #94
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    Re: ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by SupraSabre View Post
    I'm not done yet... This weekend!
    Well, I’m sure it’ll be fun!

    As for a rebuild...yeah, I just don’t thinks it’s worth it.

  5. #95
    Site Supporter Beedlebugs's Avatar
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    Re: ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

    Hello my Brothers, sorry I have been off line. I just had a Mamogram, I did not know men could have them. I now can empathize even more with my wife and all women, itís not fun.

    I have ordered the parts needed to change my CSC. I have some of the tools and should get them all picked up or ordered next week. Did anyone have any trouble with any bolts breaking in this entire process? I had a real problem with fragile bolts breaking when replacing my heads a few years ago after just trying to adjust the shims.

    I really appreciate the awesome spirit, support, knowledge sharing, mechanical ingenuity, time and frustration saving secrets shared, and the Love (in a strictly, man cave, Christian sort of way).

    I am not sure when I will make the attempt or try to coordinate any help from any of my brothers here.

    But you all truly Rock! Thank you. I canít believe how helpful all the posts are here and thru-out ST-Owners!!!
    Last edited by Beedlebugs; 10-22-2017 at 05:45 AM.

  6. #96
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    Re: ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

    Hi Beedlebugs: it’s great to have you back! Hope you’re feeling better - I’ve heard of men having that test and indeed, not fun.

    To your question about breaking bolts, my response is nope. The CSC is held onto the rear engine case by three small (6mm) hex head bolts and they aren’t all that tight. Just to be sure however, I ordered three new ones and installed them.

    As I recall it, none of the other fasteners were problematic either. In fact, this job really doesn’t require very many fasteners to be removed and that’s one thing about it that is good. Once you get the black belly fairing off the bike, the real issues are:

    1) getting access under the bike (use some sort of mat on which to lie and follow the steps re: switching between the centre stand and side stand):

    2) seeing what you are doing (a really good shop light and a flashlight are very handy here);

    3) dealing with the hydraulic system: getting the old fluid out and the new fluid in (the elcheapo $39.00 vacuum bleeder was golden for this part of the job);

    4) getting the crush washers lined up on the banjo bolt (that’s where the Vaseline is so helpful);

    5) generally keeping track of your tools etc. when you’re flat on your back (having a helpful assistant to hand you things is a good thing);

    Please note - since I wrote the article, another Forum member contributed the fact that a new gasket really isn’t necessary because the gasket doesn’t actually seal anything (and he is dead right there). Sooo...I would say that as long as the old gasket is smooth and flat when you take off the leaking CSC, you could simply leave it there and mount the new unit on it.

    That reduces the grief factor significantly since getting the old gasket off the engine case is a pain.

    I believe it was SupraSabre or perhaps Igofar who suggested removing the speed sensor from the rear engine case to improve access and that is a good idea too.

    Don’t forget a little dab of grease on the end of clutch pushrod where it engages in the CSC piston as per the manual.

    Other than those thoughts, it’s really just a slightly awkward job that isn’t that bad and saves a ton of money (well over $1000 in labour).

    Anyhow, please keep us posted and best of luck for a successful repair and a return to riding.

    Kind regards,

    Pete
    Last edited by MaxPete; 10-22-2017 at 06:32 AM.

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