Nobody else caught this. He is shifting this bike into gear at 2000 rpm. need to let bike warm up till one bar on temp gauge before setting out. bike should be idling at no more than 1000 rpm when normal.
Clutch issue when shifting
- Thread starter WhiteSparrow
- Start date
OP
OP
Hi mufflerman, if you see the video uploaded by Snave you can see that his bike is cold and idles at 2k rpm and doesn't make any sound when going in gear.
Today I was inspecting her and I saw that the engine oil is more than it should be. Even after I just stopped the bike I couldn't see the the top of the oil!
I just checked the invoice from the STealer whom I paid to do the change and it says that they put in 3.8l in(including oil filter change). To me it seems that they put more as if the engine is running the oil should circulate and not being visible from the inspection window. When I shut the bike off it should start filling the side window and stop at the max level mark.
I'm referring to all this as I just read the manual and the excessive noise in from the clutch can be due to overfilling with engine oil or using wrong viscosity engine oil.
@Snave- I started using the preload technique but I need more practice using it.
Today I was inspecting her and I saw that the engine oil is more than it should be. Even after I just stopped the bike I couldn't see the the top of the oil!
I just checked the invoice from the STealer whom I paid to do the change and it says that they put in 3.8l in(including oil filter change). To me it seems that they put more as if the engine is running the oil should circulate and not being visible from the inspection window. When I shut the bike off it should start filling the side window and stop at the max level mark.
I'm referring to all this as I just read the manual and the excessive noise in from the clutch can be due to overfilling with engine oil or using wrong viscosity engine oil.
@Snave- I started using the preload technique but I need more practice using it.
I admit I do allow my bike to warm before moving off. My sequence is usually: start her up, put in earplugs, glasses off, helmet on, glasses on, gloves on, swing leg over and back her out of the garage. By then I have one bar, if not two. This allows the oil to have started circulating properly.
OP
OP
Just drained the oil - to me it seems like a bit more than half a liter:
I started getting some nasty vibrations on the pegs, handlebar and tank( I already have handlebar stabilizers/weights added). Did the CB adjustment 2 times already but didn't help. I noticed that if I tighten the CB I get the whine but if I loosen them I don't get the rattle. I think it is rattling all the time as it really doesn't change What is the original setting of the CB's and how to get to it?
I will test tomorrow on the commute to work to see if the overfill was the issue causing the vibrations.
Any help will be highly appreciated. I think I have to start another thread for this if it doesn't go away tough.
I'm not going to any STealership anymore..they are incompetent! The people on this forum are much more aware and care much more for these bikes. I'm quite handy and can do almost everything on my own.
P.S. I have a European trip for summer next year and I need the bike to be tip-top by then. The clutch will be changed in March-April but I hope to resolve the vibes in the next couple of weeks
I started getting some nasty vibrations on the pegs, handlebar and tank( I already have handlebar stabilizers/weights added). Did the CB adjustment 2 times already but didn't help. I noticed that if I tighten the CB I get the whine but if I loosen them I don't get the rattle. I think it is rattling all the time as it really doesn't change
What is the original setting of the CB's and how to get to it?I will test tomorrow on the commute to work to see if the overfill was the issue causing the vibrations.
Any help will be highly appreciated. I think I have to start another thread for this if it doesn't go away tough.
I'm not going to any STealership anymore..they are incompetent! The people on this forum are much more aware and care much more for these bikes. I'm quite handy and can do almost everything on my own.
P.S. I have a European trip for summer next year and I need the bike to be tip-top by then. The clutch will be changed in March-April but I hope to resolve the vibes in the next couple of weeks
Last edited:
OP
OP
I just arrived at work and the vibes are still there. The engine is quieter at idle after taking the excessive oil out.
I have read posts from 6-7 years ago stating that the vibes can come from a worn out exhaust rubber mount that can cause the vibes, another thing is to check the spark plugs and the spark plug cables and last but not least a SV sync.
I have read posts from 6-7 years ago stating that the vibes can come from a worn out exhaust rubber mount that can cause the vibes, another thing is to check the spark plugs and the spark plug cables and last but not least a SV sync.
WhiteSparrow,
First I'd check to see if the plugs are tight, if so remove one HT lead at a time to figure out if it's the plugs and if so which one. Re specific 1300 issues others will be better placed to help.
What else did the dealer do, check these first.
Good luck.
First I'd check to see if the plugs are tight, if so remove one HT lead at a time to figure out if it's the plugs and if so which one. Re specific 1300 issues others will be better placed to help.
What else did the dealer do, check these first.
Good luck.
OP
OP
Upt' North,
The dealer changed all of the liquids - Oil, coolant, brake and clutch oil as well as air filter, spark plugs and rear brake pads(which I already changed again with them as the first "were from a bad batch" and the ferodo fell off after 3k km.).
I'm thinking if these idiots put concentrated coolant, without mixing it with distilated water and damaged the water pump? I haven't spotted any leaks when I was doing the CB sync. Is it possible that the vibrations come from the water pump?
I get the vibes from the engine, as if I pull in the clutch while cruising the vibes smooth out. To me this means no tire or brake pad, etc issue. The vibes get quite noticeable above 2k rpm and getting my hands numb at about 4k rpm(cruising speed on the highway).
The dealer changed all of the liquids - Oil, coolant, brake and clutch oil as well as air filter, spark plugs and rear brake pads(which I already changed again with them as the first "were from a bad batch" and the ferodo fell off after 3k km.).
I'm thinking if these idiots put concentrated coolant, without mixing it with distilated water and damaged the water pump? I haven't spotted any leaks when I was doing the CB sync. Is it possible that the vibrations come from the water pump?
I get the vibes from the engine, as if I pull in the clutch while cruising the vibes smooth out. To me this means no tire or brake pad, etc issue. The vibes get quite noticeable above 2k rpm and getting my hands numb at about 4k rpm(cruising speed on the highway).
Last edited:
I can't see it being the water pump and it does seem to be RPM not road speed issue, I would therefore do the spark plug checks first to eliminate them or sort it out. They could have not been tightened down and are working loose.
Report back. Be sure not to over tighten, just nip them down on the sealing rings if they've got them, they could well be tapered of course.
Report back. Be sure not to over tighten, just nip them down on the sealing rings if they've got them, they could well be tapered of course.
You might want to check the engine mount bolts....if they removed police crash bars or PA system etc. that were mounted to the frame...loose bolts can cause all kinds of weird vibrations....good luck......ff
OP
OP
Upt' North, flyfisher,
I will have to leave this for spring as I just moved to a new house as I had to vacant the previous one due to the owner coming back from abroad.
In the new place I don't have a garage and unfortunately my bike will have to stay outside the front door if I don't manage to persuade the landlord to let me get the bike in the living room.
I couldn't check if the spark plugs are tightened as I need to take the fairings off as my spark plug wrench doesn't fit underneath the fairings
I have taken out the cable to see if all of the spark plugs are working. After taking the cables out one after the other all of the spark plugs seem to work, at least that
While working on this i noticed a distinct smell of un-burnt fuel and checked at the exhausts. The one on the left side facing the direction of travel (cylinder 1 and 3) seemed a lot richer which means I will have to do the Starter Valve Sync as well.
I also checked the U joint, which is fine but my rear brake is dragging and I will have to check the SMC when spring comes as well.
The bike pulls to the right so I will have to re-torque the front. I will combine it with checking the mounting bolts, after Santa brings me my torquing wrenches
My list for the spring service is now almost ready
Thank you all for the support. I will come back and write all of the findings so people can benefit from my experience. I'll make pictures if I don't forget about it.
All the best,
WhiteSparrow.
I will have to leave this for spring as I just moved to a new house as I had to vacant the previous one due to the owner coming back from abroad.
In the new place I don't have a garage and unfortunately my bike will have to stay outside the front door if I don't manage to persuade the landlord to let me get the bike in the living room
.I couldn't check if the spark plugs are tightened as I need to take the fairings off as my spark plug wrench doesn't fit underneath the fairings
I have taken out the cable to see if all of the spark plugs are working. After taking the cables out one after the other all of the spark plugs seem to work, at least that
While working on this i noticed a distinct smell of un-burnt fuel and checked at the exhausts. The one on the left side facing the direction of travel (cylinder 1 and 3) seemed a lot richer which means I will have to do the Starter Valve Sync as well.
I also checked the U joint, which is fine but my rear brake is dragging and I will have to check the SMC when spring comes as well.
The bike pulls to the right so I will have to re-torque the front. I will combine it with checking the mounting bolts, after Santa brings me my torquing wrenches
My list for the spring service is now almost ready
Thank you all for the support. I will come back and write all of the findings so people can benefit from my experience. I'll make pictures if I don't forget about it.
All the best,
WhiteSparrow.