Fuel Injector light blinking codes

Hi fellow riders~ Can some one please drop me a link to the page that might show what the blinking codes mean on the fuel Injection light?

I had blinking code a while back and traced it to the left side O2 sensor. Maybe the blinking I get now is the right side O2 sensor.
The left side blinked twice fast.... followed by a long blink.
This time it's two fast blinks......a gap in time...and repeat two blinks and stop.

Left the manual back at the house today.
I looked in the electrical section here to no avail...did a quick search using key words...nadda.

Thanks to those who lurk here !

Here you go- ECM Fault Codes.

Andrew Shadow said:

Here you go- ECM Fault Codes.

Click to expand...

Thanks Andrew for the quick responce. Question : There are short blinks and longer blinks on the fuel injection light (as a code) The list you provided doesn't reflect that kind of codes, only numbers. (ok i'm pretty lost with this knowledge) So where do I find the short and long code type of translation?

Two quick blinks could be a MAP sensor error. The most common cause for that error is a plugged up 5-way tee, rarely if ever a faulty sensor.


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blink blink.......blink blink.....blink blink
What was strange is the start up was reminiscent of what the bike did when my left side O2 was out. It went like this..... Sometimes if I started the bike too quickly, without letting the pressure of fuel charge the system fully, it would stumble along with a rich sounding idle not clearing out unless I held the throttle position revved up.
Then slowly clear out as it warmed up.
Other times even if fuel system was charged fully...(fuel pump sound finished) it may still stumble on a cold start. Once underway the FI light would remain on until another warm start up (on the same ride) was accomplished. Other times I could get the FI light to shut off by rolling along at 65 mph, shut the key off while pulling in the clutch, coast for a short distance and start the bike with the clutch still pulled in. Continue on with no FI light on.
This whole affair was fixed by replacing the left side 02 sensor. Ran great for several weeks until this morning when I get the similar stumble start and FI light.
Then the two blink code with the side stand down. hmmmm

My 2004 was doing the same as your bike, intermittent FI light on start for about a year. I could go a month or so between codes. I had the same symptoms to the t. Cleaned the 5 way tee early this spring, went good for a while then boom-FI 2 blinks. Replaced the MAP sensor 3 weeks ago and so far no codes. I've put on 2000 miles so far. Hoping my issue is resolved.

Fortunet 1 said:

Thanks Andrew for the quick responce. Question : There are short blinks and longer blinks on the fuel injection light (as a code) The list you provided doesn't reflect that kind of codes, only numbers. (ok i'm pretty lost with this knowledge) So where do I find the short and long code type of translation?

Click to expand...

From the ECM quick guide link:
Note the number of blinks in each group and consult ECMFaultCodes for interpretation.

• 
  Count a long blink (about 1.3 seconds) as ten (e.g, two long blinks and one short blink is code 21).
• 
  Codes 25 and 26 are reversed in the manual. See ServiceManualCorrections for details.

Northernkm said:

From the ECM quick guide link:
Note the number of blinks in each group and consult ECMFaultCodes for interpretation.

• 
  Count a long blink (about 1.3 seconds) as ten (e.g, two long blinks and one short blink is code 21).
• 
  Codes 25 and 26 are reversed in the manual. See ServiceManualCorrections for details.

Click to expand...

sOOOOOO.....TWO SHORT BLINKS.............. BLINK, BLINK. IS A CODE ELEVEN?

It sounds to me like two short blinks is code 2. A code eleven would be one long and one short.

Fortunet 1 said:

sOOOOOO.....TWO SHORT BLINKS.............. BLINK, BLINK. IS A CODE ELEVEN?

Click to expand...

Start with zero. Each long blink adds ten and each short blink adds one. Two short blinks is code 2. Two long blinks would be code 20. Two long blinks and a short blink would be code 21.


--Mark

Yup. Code 2. Inspect the 5-way tee and all of the vacuum lines attached to it. Four of the lines go to each cylinder's intake and the 5th goes to the MAP sensor. I got the same code and some rough running when I accidentally knocked the line off of the MAP sensor when reinstalling the throttle body assembly.

wjbertrand said:

Yup. Code 2. Inspect the 5-way tee and all of the vacuum lines attached to it. Four of the lines go to each cylinder's intake and the 5th goes to the MAP sensor. I got the same code and some rough running when I accidentally knocked the line off of the MAP sensor when reinstalling the throttle body assembly.

Click to expand...

The "rough running" was only on a warm up cycle, but after cleared out it ran perfectly. One would think that the rough running would continue if a vacuum line was knocked off.?
Is that "five way tee" located behind the air box ? Just in front of the seat?

I had an occasional problem with rough running when starting cold that went away after I went in and cleaned all of the starter valve linkages. Don't know if they were related, but I make it a point to do that any time I have the air box off and haven't had it since.

--Mark

Fortunet 1 said:

The "rough running" was only on a warm up cycle, but after cleared out it ran perfectly. One would think that the rough running would continue if a vacuum line was knocked off.?
Is that "five way tee" located behind the air box ? Just in front of the seat?

Click to expand...

Yes only on a cold start and warm up, then the bike kicks into a default mode. Mine would run poorly on cold starting sometimes stall. Upon restarting it would still run a bit rough and then suddenly smooth out and simultaneously the FI light would start blinking.

wjbertrand said:

Yes only on a cold start and warm up, then the bike kicks into a default mode. Mine would run poorly on cold starting sometimes stall. Upon restarting it would still run a bit rough and then suddenly smooth out and simultaneously the FI light would start blinking.

Click to expand...

IK, i'll look for that tee connection when my fuel is low enough to pop the lid. Thanks for your help ! Don't know where the "starter valve linkages" are as Mark mentioned but will look that one up as well.
Thanks for everyones input !

That tee is under the air box and throttle bodies.

SteveST1300 said:

That tee is under the air box and throttle bodies.

Click to expand...

So i have to take the lid (of the airbox) AND the lower portion of it too?? Oh my....

Mayday...Mayday...Mayday
2008 ST1300
#13 fault code (#2 injector or mouse damage) Holy cow Mouse damage up the a**! Ordered a new Sub-harness and after much knuckle busting got it installed. Put the air box on and the tank and guess what? Same error code and same running problem. It starts but quits after a few seconds and there is the error code. I'm sure I got it all hooked up correctly. Of course I'll have to tear it down again and check the #2 connection and if that checks then switch #2 and #3 injectors and see what happens. Problem is, I don't know how to switch the injectors? Please don't tell me I have to remove the fuel rail. Please don't tell me that What say you guys? And as always Thanks very much in advance for any suggestions! Stay healthy all...

It looks like the service manual recommends pulling the throttle bodies/fuel rail to swap injectors; never having done it myself (I have a spare on the shelf after experiencing the mouse nest issue as well but replacing the harness fixed the problem so never used the injector) I would confirm the harness was installed correctly again first before going further and pulling an injector. Let us know what you end up doing!

Gus1300 said:

It looks like the service manual recommends pulling the throttle bodies/fuel rail to swap injectors; never having done it myself (I have a spare on the shelf after experiencing the mouse nest issue as well but replacing the harness fixed the problem so never used the injector) I would confirm the harness was installed correctly again first before going further and pulling an injector. Let us know what you end up doing!

Click to expand...

Sounds like you didn't pull the fuel rail either to replace the harness. I was worried that having to manipulate the harness to get it in place might have damaged it but getting the exact same code...I don't think so now. I'm going back in today and pull the tank and air box again and check it out. Guess I should have tried it before I put all that stuff on.

I should have mentioned that the bike was stored for about 2 years inside. But it was outside covered the last 5 months. I think that's when they (the mice) got me? But here's the other issue. During the two years it was stored It was filled with gas that had no stabilizer in it. At first I thought that bad gas was the problem and proceeded to remove all the fuel from the upper tank and finally worked down to the lower tank thinking maybe the filter was clogged. I pulled the cover from the lower and all that seemed fine, the filter was not clogged at all and the fuel pump was working fine since I could here it come up to pressure when I turned the key on. I also replaced the spark plugs. (During all of this I didn't know about the codes or how to get them, I came across that info from here.
Long story short, found the chewed wires, got a new harness installed and still get the same code: "#2 injector... I said all this not just to talk but to ask: Do you think that because the fuel was left in it so long that that injector is plugged up and thus not working? Just a guess. Also do you think the ECU got screwed up from the frayed wires? #1 and #2 injector wires were totally chewed and frayed all over the place.