ST1100 Fork Strip Stuck

Hope someone can help? I've removed the forks from my 2000 St1100 ABS to replace the fork seals and oil. They came out of the yokes quite easily , so I've started on the left leg first, dust deal off ok, but was in bad condition and been letting rain onto seal, circlip out ok, but now the problem. The seal will not budge, despite LOTS of "slide hammering", tried penetrating oil overnight, then hot water to heat the leg up, and finally a butane torch to warm it. Again lots of sliding, but no movement. Any suggestions? I'm not sure what can be so stuck, surely the seal is only a thin metal shell, and I think there is a steel spacer underneath it? I think by now I've probably damaged the bearings by all the slide hammering, so will have to replace them anyway, but how can I remove the slider? (Yes I have removed the circlip!!)
Many thanks
Tim

maybe a dumb question, but did you remove the bolt at the bottom of the fork lower tube? You didn't mention it, so its a valid question. I've never heard of a fork seal resisting removal, so this does seem weird if you've removed the bolt.

I had the same problem with my VTR1000F fork and eventually handed it over to the local Honda dealer. They did exactly what you are doing, penetrating oil for a few days, then heat, then lots of slide hammering and swearing. The bushings were is decent shape and could have been reused. I think your main problem will be the large metal washer under the seal which will have corroded in place.

Any question is valid! Yes, bolt and damper rod and spring all removed.

never had this problem before, so just throwing out ideas. Maybe put the axle back in the lower fork tube, put it on top of a bunch of rags and stand on the axle for extra leverage while pulling up on the top tube with both hands. Make sure you don't hit yourself in the head when the top tube comes out. If that fails, then you could remove the top triple clamp and attach that to the top of the slider for even more pulling grip.

couple of good ideas, I like the tope yoke one, its difficult to get a good grip on the leg otherwise. still soaking in penetrating oil, i'll keep you posted on developments!

Hi All, Progress so far. finally got the tubes out, took days of soaking with oil, and several cycles of heat, tube in soft jaws in vice, large hammer on hardwood drift onto top of sliders. only reason I could see was seals outer steel shell rusted and expanded ? New bushes fitted and assembly going ok. next question, before I do something silly - which way up do the oil seals go?? old ones were "spring side" up I think which seems wrong, Haynes says "markings" side up?
thanks
tim

tim welsh said:

before I do something silly - which way up do the oil seals go?? old ones were "spring side" up I think which seems wrong, Haynes says "markings" side up?

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Depends on the brand of seals. The last set I bought, but can't remember the brand name, have springs on both sides. I'm more used to seals with one flat side, and the spring on the other side. The "markings" are on the flat side, which goes up. If you happen to get the ones with springs on both sides, look closely and you'll see markings on one side, that goes up. The markings are something like a part number, size, etc.

Thanks. Mine have springs on one side only, still double lipped though. I always thought seals were fitted with the spring facing the fluid to be sealed, so Markings side up makes sense to me.