tip for re-installing lower fork tube bushings

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Whenever I have my forks apart I always dread the task of driving that bushing back into the lower fork tube. Today I had an idea and it worked perfectly. Cut a few (3) slices from a wine cork, and stuff them between the bushing and the fork tube to compress the bushing, then a few quick taps with a screwdriver and the bushing is back in place! Can't believe I've been drinking all these years and never thought of that sooner.
 
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Maybe I've misunderstood what you are doing, but I just slip the upper bushing onto the fork stanchion above the fixed lower bushing, and slip that assembly into the fork lower. The bushings usually slip right into place.

More wine can't hurt though.
 
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I, too, install the upper fork tube into the lower, insert the bushing add the large washer and tap into place with a homemade fork seal driver made from pvc pipe. Works great. Driving the bushing into place with a screwdriver could possibly damage the edge of the bushing. YMMV...
 
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dwalby
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I've never had the bushing just slide into place on any bike I've ever owned. The split in the bushing allows the metal to expand just enough that its O.D. is just slightly greater than the I.D. of the hole in the lower fork tube. Its always been a challenge to compress the bushing so that its diameter is small enough to be able to drive it into place. The wine cork solved that problem for me.

I've never tried driving it from above with a seal driver, with the washer in place, because I've never owned a seal driver. I always use the old oil seal on top of the new one, and pound that with a small piece of wood like a 1x4 to drive the new seal into the fork tube. Always worked, so I never made a proper seal driver tool.

I'm guessing that the seal driver tool provides an even force that aligns the bushing into the hole and it compresses as it drives it. So I've been doing it the wrong (hard) way for the last 36 years and didn't even know it. I'll build a 1-1/4 PVC driver and see if it works as easy as you say, that would be great. I actually had thought of that before, but from the looks of it I didn't think the bushing would compress at all just by hitting it from above, so I never tried it. Thanks for the feedback.
 

wjbertrand

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I've just tapped that bushing in with the new fork seal when I've had the forks apart. No problem. My memory may be failing me but I seem to recall a small taper/chamfer at one end of the bushing that helps guide it into place.
 

lomita

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Whenever I have my forks apart I always dread the task of driving that bushing back into the lower fork tube. Today I had an idea and it worked perfectly. Cut a few (3) slices from a wine cork, and stuff them between the bushing and the fork tube to compress the bushing, then a few quick taps with a screwdriver and the bushing is back in place! Can't believe I've been drinking all these years and never thought of that sooner.
I used similar technique but with 3 plastic bicycle tire changing tools instead of cork. Same deal though. Then tapped em down. My fingers can't produce enough squeeze to slip them into place without some helper tools.
 
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dwalby
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went to Home Depot today and picked up some PVC parts to make a seal driver when I get home tonight. I'm going to take a closer look at the edges of the bushing, the taper Jeff mentioned sounds familiar, so I'll make sure I have the correct orientation before trying the driver on it. So its sounding like using other methods instead of buying/building a 360 degree seal driver has caused me a lot of extra work over the years with that bushing, live and learn.
 

wjbertrand

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went to Home Depot today and picked up some PVC parts to make a seal driver when I get home tonight. I'm going to take a closer look at the edges of the bushing, the taper Jeff mentioned sounds familiar, so I'll make sure I have the correct orientation before trying the driver on it. So its sounding like using other methods instead of buying/building a 360 degree seal driver has caused me a lot of extra work over the years with that bushing, live and learn.
Thinking about it the taper may have been in the fork leg, I just can't remember. I don't recall having to do anything special to drive the bushing in, just used the seal driver (also home made) to drive both in together.
 
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dwalby
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What size PVC pipe did you get?
I had to do a little customizing to get a working seal driver. I used a 1-1/2" to 1-1/4" PVC reducing bushing as the driver, but I had to ream out a very small lip on the inside diameter with a dremel tool, which only took a minute. A straight 1-1/2" PVC coupling is too big to fit down into the lower fork tube recess. (but that size apparently works well for the ST1300 because it has a larger upper tube diameter). I used a 2" I.D. ABS pipe as the driver, which also works for the ST1300.

I looked closely at the fork bushing and although it appears to have a slight bevel when looking at it, I put it up to a background light a few times and couldn't see an actual bevel on either side, so I just threw it in, put the metal washer over it, and went to work. At first it didn't seem like it was going in, but after a few whacks with the weight of the 2" ABS pipe alone, it started into its recess. For the fork seal I didn't use the 2" pipe, I just pressed down on the PVC bushing with my fingers and that provided enough force to fully seat the fork seal.

I used to hate this job because of struggling to get the bushing back into the tube, but now I kinda like it. Funny how much difference it makes when you have the right tool.
 
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When I made mine I used white or grey built in Vacuum line. It was 2" outside diameter, I believe I cut a slip out so it fit. Don't exactly recall as it's been a few years since I made mine.
 
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I use PVC or ABS pipe as well, have a spare washer to drive the seal in. Sounds like the ST's go together easily, while the FJR top bushing is actually an interference fit once the bushing is compressed... takes a little more force to seat it, thus the washer. You can also use old bushings as driver assists if you want additional height.
 

John OoSTerhuis

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Many STriders have had to compress a new upper fork slider bushing during an install. The Honda special tool for driving fork seals has an ID bevel that forces the split/gap in the bushing closed during an install. There are other commercial drivers that are similarly designed to drive upper fork slider bushings. When I did mine years ago I made a driver out of PVC tubing with the inner bevel (a rabbetted edge actually) in the tip, and a hose clamp to compress the slits in the tubing to fit the fork tube OD and bushing and seal. This driver is still in the backup STOC fork seals R&R loaner tool kit. The main kit has shop style drivers in it (41mm and 43mm).

To finish driving the bushing fully "home"/seated I made a custom driver out of brass rod stock. The tip was shaped to fit up against the curve of the fork tube to make wide contact with the bushing. It works great and doesn't damage the chrome fork tube. It's in the STOC loner kit along with everything else you need to do the full fork fluid, seals and bushings R&R:
HONDA ST1100 FORK SEAL R&R TOOL KITS
http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=983
AlmoST 50 fellow STriders have used the loaner kits to date.

AOW tips:
Fork Seal R&R Tips ( ST1100 )
http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=907.0

FYI FWIW YMMV

John
 

rogo

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Whenever I have my forks apart I always dread the task of driving that bushing back into the lower fork tube. Today I had an idea and it worked perfectly. Cut a few (3) slices from a wine cork, and stuff them between the bushing and the fork tube to compress the bushing, then a few quick taps with a screwdriver and the bushing is back in place! Can't believe I've been drinking all these years and never thought of that sooner.
Thought I'd have proper PVC on hand for improvised bushing driver. Not any scraps fit without having to machine. A wine cork and a
nylon windshield tool got the slider bushing installed nicely thank you. Now I have some vino to finish.
 
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