Easy-er fuel cap access?

Uncle Phil

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I'll be curious as to how it works out. The more I think about it, the more it makes sense. I'd just like to find one that does not require filing out the current lock hole in the lid though. That way I could change it back if need be.
 
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Yea, I don't want to permanently modify either. I think a better set up would be one where the button is flush, like the third example. If we could find one like that, more water-proofy and with a lock for those that want one, that'd be the bee's knees..

Frank
 

Ron

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If you're pushing the button down, aren't you also pushing the door down?
 
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If you're pushing the button down, aren't you also pushing the door down?
Yes. Typically these latches work with a door that is spring loaded - or you are flexing the door itself. So when you push the button down and retract the 'locking' tabs (maybe 'latching' tabs is more accurate) the springiness of the door pushes back against your finger pressure just enough so that the tabs are no longer catching the flange (or piece of metal they engage with). Withdrawing your finger allows the door to pop open. This latch will not work without said spring action pushing the door open, unless it has a finger tab on the outside near the button. In that case, you hook your finger under the tab, push the button and pull on the tab with the button depressed. I'm sure you have seen these before. Only problem here is finding a finger latch that will fit the bike without major surgery. And one that will withstand the elements outdoors.
 
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Considering you get 250-300 miles range out of a tank, and how infrequently you have to fill up compared to most bikes, I'd rather leave the lock in place to keep my fuel system secure. imho.

Otherwise, I'd epoxy a magnet to the door and just pull it open through the now empty lock opening.
 

John OoSTerhuis

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If you find moving the ignition key from the ignition to the fuel filler door and back when refueling to be troubling [I certainly haven't for almost 190K], just remove the door. I've heard a few rally riders have done so for a rally. IINM, this also works for "Bagster" tank covers with the velcro secured access flap. FWIW

John
 

Uncle Phil

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Just for grins, I bought a push button latch ($22.95) off EBay after I queried the seller as to the diameter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172176841620?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I also had an extra tank shelter laying around to play with. The size and length was fine and it fit with no alteration to the lid. The problem is that the ST1100 stop is not long enough. It would be pretty easy to fabricate a 'proper' stop for it to replace the stock one. You would probably have to add a spring under the lid (extend the stop so you could attach the springs) so it would pop up when pressed. So with a stop fabricated and a spring, looks like this would be the bee's knees'. :D Here's the pictures -
 

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If you find moving the ignition key from the ignition to the fuel filler door and back when refueling to be troubling [I certainly haven't for almost 190K], just remove the door. I've heard a few rally riders have done so for a rally. IINM, this also works for "Bagster" tank covers with the velcro secured access flap. FWIW

John
Ha Ha! Yes, I never realized what a chore it was to unlock that lid, until I read this thread! ;)
 
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It's not difficult, 'troubling' or a 'chore', but what I'm running into is that I'm fat, and with a big coat on, my gut gets in the way a bit. Between that, and having my trunk key on my ignition key ring, I don't feel like scratching up my lid if I don't have to. So coming up with a way to not have to suck my guts in, and scratch up my freshly painted junk at the same time, doesn't seem too much of a bother to me. And just having an empty hole there doesn't work for me, lol

Uncle Phil,
Glad you jumped on that grenade and tried it out. I'm gonna order that lock too, and take it the rest of the way to see how it's gonna work out. I'll fab up the rest of the mechanism with a spring. Even though the haters see no point in it, somebody might benefit from it, and it solves a couple small issues for my situation!

Frank
 
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If you find moving the ignition key from the ignition to the fuel filler door and back when refueling to be troubling [I certainly haven't for almost 190K], just remove the door. I've heard a few rally riders have done so for a rally. IINM, this also works for "Bagster" tank covers with the velcro secured access flap. FWIW

John
I just noticed that my right hand is much larger than my left hand, no doubt due to constantly moving the key from the ignition switch to the gas cap cover and then back to the ignition switch.

I will start using my left hand until it matches the size of my right hand. Don't know what I will do after they are equal.
 
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I just noticed that my right hand is much larger than my left hand, no doubt due to constantly moving the key from the ignition switch to the gas cap cover and then back to the ignition switch.

I will start using my left hand until it matches the size of my right hand. Don't know what I will do after they are equal.
Are you sure it is THAT particular use of your right hand that caused it to grow? :D
 
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Uncle Phil

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Frank - Fabricating the catch should be pretty straight forward using the stock catch for the screw hole pattern. I figure a couple of light weight springs bolted to it should pop the cap up when you hit the button. Looks like it could be cut out of flat stock without any problems or maybe a slight bend in it. I was pleasantly surprised when the push button replacement fit the lock hole like it was made for it.
 
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Frank - Fabricating the catch should be pretty straight forward using the stock catch for the screw hole pattern. I figure a couple of light weight springs bolted to it should pop the cap up when you hit the button. Looks like it could be cut out of flat stock without any problems or maybe a slight bend in it. I was pleasantly surprised when the push button replacement fit the lock hole like it was made for it.
Most locks of this type fit a standard sized hole. This part should come as no surprise. What is fortuitous is that the push latch you found comes so close to working with the catch plate on the bike.

I have to assume that many of these are interchangeable and take standard size holes and catches. Think about it. If you come up with a new catch idea, unless you have a specific application (say for a brand new car's glove box) your market will be larger if you manufacture it in a size that takes advantage of the existing uses for this kind of latch.
 
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Frank - Fabricating the catch should be pretty straight forward using the stock catch for the screw hole pattern. I figure a couple of light weight springs bolted to it should pop the cap up when you hit the button. Looks like it could be cut out of flat stock without any problems or maybe a slight bend in it. I was pleasantly surprised when the push button replacement fit the lock hole like it was made for it.
Yeah, I figured the lock wouldn't be too difficult to come up, just didn't know if you good sirs had already farkled it up...I'll take some pics when work commences. That's IF I can figure out how to post pics again, lol!

And what's up with 'fortuitous' ?? Big words like that shouldn't be on a motorcycle forum ;)...just sayin'......

Frank
 

Uncle Phil

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Most locks of this type fit a standard sized hole. This part should come as no surprise.
Well, I was thinking it probably would be more like Honda ST1100 headlight bulbs in the US Models.... ;-) With Honda you never know when it will be a 'specialized' sized part made just for them or some weird configuration when a standard one would work just fine. Sort of like how Sears used a standard motor for a lawnmower and then turned the crankshaft down so you had to have their 'special' pulley. Or Dell who put 'special' trays for their server hot swap disk drives and wouldn't sell the trays separately when the disk drives in them were standard and you could get them cheap. Ah, the list goes on... :D
 
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