You are right, of course. I read in another thread about the rear wheel bearings so I called one of the biggest bearing companies around (they sell everyone's bearings - its a Cleveland based, international company). Now, I would expect Honda to use off the shelf bearings. Apparently not so. When I gave them the numbers, they could not come up with them. Suggested I go to Honda. Some of the companies mentioned (like all balls) must be making them to fit Honda applications - the big names like Timken and SKF are not.Well, I was thinking it probably would be more like Honda ST1100 headlight bulbs in the US Models.... ;-) With Honda you never know when it will be a 'specialized' sized part made just for them or some weird configuration when a standard one would work just fine. Sort of like how Sears used a standard motor for a lawnmower and then turned the crankshaft down so you had to have their 'special' pulley. Or Dell who put 'special' trays for their server hot swap disk drives and wouldn't sell the trays separately when the disk drives in them were standard and you could get them cheap. Ah, the list goes on...
Easy-er fuel cap access?
- Thread starter Bueller
- Start date
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
What pops my cork about the headlight bulbs is that in the European models, they are standard H4 bulbs (IIRC). So Honda had make special plastic castings with the weird tab pattern just for the USA models. BTW, I've found CBR to be great on sourcing Honda compatible bearings and they actually know what a ST is. I've gotten fronts and rears and steering bearings from them for my ST1100s. What I like about the push button is the fact I could fill up while sitting on the bike without taking my gloves off to get to the key which would be handy in the winter. After my wrist/hand surgery in 2003, my hands are extremely sensitive to cold and once cold, it's tough to get them warm even with heated gloves. I'll see how Bueller gets it sorted then I may follow his lead. If there is enough interest, I might could cut up a bunch of catches out of steel on our laser at work for a small price like I did for the belly pans many years ago.
BTW, I've found CBR to be great on sourcing Honda compatible bearings and they actually know what a ST is. I've gotten fronts and rears and steering bearings from them for my ST1100s. What I like about the push button is the fact I could fill up while sitting on the bike without taking my gloves off to get to the key which would be handy in the winter. After my wrist/hand surgery in 2003, my hands are extremely sensitive to cold and once cold, it's tough to get them warm even with heated gloves. I'll see how Bueller gets it sorted then I may follow his lead. If there is enough interest, I might could cut up a bunch of catches out of steel on our laser at work for a small price like I did for the belly pans many years ago.
Sling Shot racing. Solved the problem for me about 2 years ago. About $50 and 10 minutes to change.
Hated that sticky lock. Especially when I was out in the middle of nowhere 500 miles from home wondering if my key was going to break off or not.
Not sure why people are so concerned about fuel security?
If I was going to steal gas I would target lots of bigger tanks on cars & trucks.
If you are worried about vandalism they will find other ways if your cap is locked.
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Unfortunately, that nice cap solution does not work for the ST1100 of the OP. But it is a mighty fine solution for the ST1300.
Aircraft spruce n specialty. P.n. 05-11830 nomenclature "HARTWELL offset door, oil door" (Hartwell p.n. 0.051)............. close enough?
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Oberon makes them too. Major diff is the Oberon version has 5 screw holes. This is only important to guys who have a plastic ring mounted around the gas cap upon which to clip a tank bag. Bottom line - for 1300's they are available in a variety of colors.
Trifle expensive for a latch - but then it is for a plane.....
Yes it is, but will seem cheap once he tries to make something close to it.
This looks like something I'd love. I looked on their site and found no cap like this for ST1300. Can you post a link to the one you bought that we KNOW fits? Thanks.
Sling Shot racing. Solved the problem for me about 2 years ago. About $50 and 10 minutes to change.
Hated that sticky lock. Especially when I was out in the middle of nowhere 500 miles from home wondering if my key was going to break off or not.
Not sure why people are so concerned about fuel security?
If I was going to steal gas I would target lots of bigger tanks on cars & trucks.
If you are worried about vandalism they will find other ways if your cap is locked.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
http://www.slingshotracing.net/catalog/honda-cnc-racing-gas-cap-p-15.html. This threw me off because this cap only has 3 fasteners but it lists for the st1300. Upon further digging, i think that of the 7 fasteners on the stock 1300 cap, only 3 are real and 4 are decorative. I am sure someone can confirm this. I am Thinking of this mod myself.
Valker... update... I dug some more and found a thread discussing this cap. Lots of info for you. https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?94884-Keyless-gas-cap&highlight=slingshot
Another alternative, looks similar to the Slingshot Racing cap....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Motorcycle-Race-Fuel-Gas-Cap-Black-/181744764493?hash=item2a50d5064d:g:EDMAAOSwd0BVu0Iq
I think I'll order one...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Motorcycle-Race-Fuel-Gas-Cap-Black-/181744764493?hash=item2a50d5064d:g:EDMAAOSwd0BVu0Iq
I think I'll order one...
http://www.slingshotracing.net/catalog
Not sure why it calls for a special gasket. I did not do anything special with the gasket.
Looks like you can call them to be sure.
I did paint the bolt heads black with a rattle can. Yes there are only 3 "real" bolts. Simple install.
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I have the Oberon cap, as I mentioned earlier - which uses all 5 screws. I do not understand what people mean by saying only three are real. All the screws are used and some secure the plastic ring for my tank bag.
This summer the O-ring decided our local fuel was objectionable and enlarged. I measured it and bought a bunch from the oringstore online. At around 40? each they were a bit cheaper than the oem rings from across the pond. My gas cap weeps just a little in a tip over with a full tank. Don't ask how I know this.
Yes, the European housings are for H4 lamps. The U.S. DOT restrictions are for no more than 90 watts (total) lamps on the head lamp. How Honda gets a high and low beam from a 45/45 lamp is beyond my knowledge. A bigger question is why only 90 watts?
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Pretty sure you already know the answer, Ron -- two filaments inside the bulbs. One for low beam, the other for high beam. The reflector in the headlight module and its lens are designed to project the light accordingly. That's why it's critical for aftermarket bulbs to duplicate the position of their light source(s) to that of the OEM's filaments (depth into the module). My Baja Designs HID required a shim. Some of the early hi/low HIDs had the ability to adjust the position of the light capsule built into the unit.
I don't know anything about a 90 watt total limit. I have heard of anecdotes of too high power/wattage bulbs discoloring or even melting the module's reflector.
John [currently running a Euro headlight module]
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I also have the European lamp housing and found it to put out a much better or useful light pattern. I bought mine on the word and faith of the ST rider community. Another good investment for the ST.
I am amazed the 45 watt light can be manipulated by the reflector and lens to be brighter or dimmer. Simple things for simple minds.
I am amazed the 45 watt light can be manipulated by the reflector and lens to be brighter or dimmer. Simple things for simple minds.
OP
OP
Meanwhile, back at camp original topic.....
Just received the same button lock as Uncle Phil, except black, since the bike is black. Took some scrap 16ga sheet metal 30mm wide, drilled two holes using the old latch as a pattern, and put about a 35* bend in it since the mounting holes are at an angle. For a spring, I took a decent sized safety pin, cut the sharp end and the safety end off, and formed a loop at 90* for the mounting bolt to go through. The other end was shaped into an 'S' and catches the ridge of the lid. Had to cut out a little square from the catch plate for the spring to pass by. It works like a charm. I'll remake it after I put some miles on it. Not sure how long the safety pin will go with constant tension on it like that, but my thinking is the kind of steel they use, should be able to handle all the cycles since it is a safety pin after all. Might be. Enter to fashion a small strip of metal into a spring. Gonna experiment with this version and see how it goes. Took me longer to write this, than to actually do the work. ....pictures following after I do a bunch of iCloud clean up later today or tomorrow......
Frank
Just received the same button lock as Uncle Phil, except black, since the bike is black. Took some scrap 16ga sheet metal 30mm wide, drilled two holes using the old latch as a pattern, and put about a 35* bend in it since the mounting holes are at an angle. For a spring, I took a decent sized safety pin, cut the sharp end and the safety end off, and formed a loop at 90* for the mounting bolt to go through. The other end was shaped into an 'S' and catches the ridge of the lid. Had to cut out a little square from the catch plate for the spring to pass by. It works like a charm. I'll remake it after I put some miles on it. Not sure how long the safety pin will go with constant tension on it like that, but my thinking is the kind of steel they use, should be able to handle all the cycles since it is a safety pin after all. Might be. Enter to fashion a small strip of metal into a spring. Gonna experiment with this version and see how it goes. Took me longer to write this, than to actually do the work. ....pictures following after I do a bunch of iCloud clean up later today or tomorrow......
Frank
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Frank - Great job! I'll be interested in the pictures. I never thought about the safety pin as spring. It would be nice for me as I usually don't dismount to fill up. This would mean one less thing for me to fuss with.
My wife has been complaining about the quality of safety pins (well, at least the larger sizes) for a couple of years now. The older ones could not be easily bent with your fingers, and the new, cheap ones almost wilt before your very eyes. So, for others trying this, unclip the safety pin, and try to bend the wire (of the sharp end that clips into the head) by hand. The new ones feel like limp spaghetti - the old ones are pretty robust. Obviously, old pins will last longer when used as a spring.