Modification of rear shock

ST Gui

240Robert
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Wow later to this game than I thought. I remember there was a lowering kit for (IIRC) the 750-4 Honda that moved the bottom of the shocks back an >1" or so.

I think it makes a difference in the shock damping/spring rate whether you relocate the top or bottom of the shock and changing the suspension geometry. Moving the top forward to lower the bike would/should increase the damping/spring effect/rate whereas moving the bottom back would decrease those effects. I think.

Draw a simple triangle diagram with the pivot point of the swing arm and mounting points of the shock and I think this demonstrates my point. Or not unlikely I have no idea of the physics involved and I'm off the beam. But the leverage looks right to me.

BTW Cville did you feel a change in handling when you dropped the forks 14mm?
 
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Cvillechopper
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Wow later to this game than I thought. I remember there was a lowering kit for (IIRC) the 750-4 Honda that moved the bottom of the shocks back an >1" or so.

I think it makes a difference in the shock damping/spring rate whether you relocate the top or bottom of the shock and changing the suspension geometry. Moving the top forward to lower the bike would/should increase the damping/spring effect/rate whereas moving the bottom back would decrease those effects. I think.

Draw a simple triangle diagram with the pivot point of the swing arm and mounting points of the shock and I think this demonstrates my point. Or not unlikely I have no idea of the physics involved and I'm off the beam. But the leverage looks right to me.

BTW Cville did you feel a change in handling when you dropped the forks 14mm?
With the forks dropped 14mm it was pretty clear that there was a difference but I also had replaced the fork oil, corrected a leaky seal, etc. so it's not a pure comparison. The steering was clearly lighter. I'd say that it's probably a bit too fast of a turn-in for my liking but nothing dangerous. Will probably raise them back up a little until I can get the rear lowered. I'm no speed demon these days and rather have a little heavier feel in the corners.
 
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To that end I opine that I've heard of people having a shock disassembled/shortened/welded and it wasn't cheap. NO memory of any details nor how it held up. I do know an excellent welder/rider (V-STrom but he's still a decent guy) so I'll run this by him as a purely hypothetical.

I think the advantage of an improved shock and spring combination along with a lower ride height might be money better spent than shortening a shock anyway not to mention if structural integrity can be preserved.
Yeh. The cost is absolutely worth it. The question is just when I can spend it and not be in the dog house. I'm a tinkerer and have rebuilt/restored many old SOHC Hondas before we had kids (6 yr old boy and twin 4 yr old girls). I don't get to ride as often as I used to so spending time just figuring out if it can be done is how I get my kicks these days. Really thinking of mocking up a lower mount relocation block out of some steel stock I have in the shed. If I can get it to work I might see about getting the machine specs worked up and maybe someone with access to a mill could make a few. Have to check my father-in-laws Shop Smith to see what it would take to make it work for this...
 

Nashcat

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My 2 cents. Get a pair of thick soled boots, and change shoes when you get to work. I'm not comfortable reaching the ground when wearing thin soled shoes, moving the bikes around in the garage, but with my Wolverine work boots, no problem.

Ride Safe
John
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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Cvillechopper said:
I'm no speed demon these days and rather have a little heavier feel in the corners.
LOL same here. Even when I was— I wasn't!


The question is just when I can spend it and not be in the dog house.
The Eternal Question. Mine is— Can I bear to Part with Big Money.


Really thinking of mocking up a lower mount relocation block out of some steel stock I have in the shed.
Paying attention in Geometry Class is/was/would be a HUGE help here. I never did and would probably go through a LOT of stock unless I got lucky.


but with my Wolverine work boots, no problem.
This is probably the most expedient way to go for me. I'll have to lower my gear shift and brake levers as they're a little high because of my 'Wing pegs.
 
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Cvillechopper
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Well...
I decided to see just how much room I have under there to build a mount relocation block. Loosened the top of the shock, jacked the swing arm up until the lower bolt came out easily, measured the distance from the axle to the top frame, and started raising the swing arm. Got about 1/2" up before the battery box became an issue. Thought I'd just pull the box and see if everything else would fall into place, then deal with a battery relocation. Turns out that the battery box is part of the rear inner fender. Just not worth going further at this point. That is too much to move around, cut, etc when I can just wait and order a known product. I hate admitting defeat but this one is no longer on my priority list. Maybe if we get a big snow and I know I won't be riding for a few weeks...
 
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Some help would be to raise the front forks in the triple clamps. That is what I did.. No affect on handling, maybe just a bit quicker on turns..
 
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I have a 30 inch inseam and cant double flat foot. Backing the thing while seated is difficult for me. Sand (tiny ball bearings) is a real problem. I have a sargent seat which I think is a touch taller then stock. Removing the rubber bumpers on the rear seat mounts will give you another quarter inch or so. Mine have been gone for a while.
Putting my girl on the back is a big help. Putting her on the back after a big meal is a bigger help!
 

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Could a 160/60 rear tire work on the ST1300? IIRC, if you put one on a ST1100 it does seem to lower the bike. And I've run the 170/60 (ST1300 rear) on my ST1100s and don't notice much height difference like I did with a 160/60.
 
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Could a 160/60 rear tire work on the ST1300? IIRC, if you put one on a ST1100 it does seem to lower the bike. And I've run the 170/60 (ST1300 rear) on my ST1100s and don't notice much height difference like I did with a 160/60.
You can sometimes modify height with the tire but it makes a pretty distinct impact on the mileage, speedometer, and rpm. The tire is your last gear ratio in your drive train. To get a 1" drop you'd have to go with a 2" shorter diameter and it's a considerable change in circumference.
 

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Does the ST1300 get it's speed sense from the front like the ST1100 or some other way? I've ridden them but never paid attention to that. The rear tire would be an 'inexpensive' mod to begin with. ;-) It could give you part of what you need so you didn't have modify as much to get the rest. My hunch it will take a combination to get where you want to be.
 
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You can sometimes modify height with the tire but it makes a pretty distinct impact on the mileage, speedometer, and rpm. The tire is your last gear ratio in your drive train. To get a 1" drop you'd have to go with a 2" shorter diameter and it's a considerable change in circumference.
Were you to go the tire route, a speedohealer would take care of the odo and spedometer - but this is throwing more money at what was a cheap solution.

I seem to recall a thread about lowering the ST. Does anyone else remember it? I think a shop did the work - and I have no idea of the cost or parts used. Why can't Honda build a Dan Gurney Alligator type bike?
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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Could a 160/60 rear tire work on the ST1300?
I've no idea about fitment but I'd be tempted to try for a .5" drop at least for one tire change.

KneeDrachen said:
i've read the whole thread and SWORE at some point someone made a "dog bone" link to drop the rear end....
I must have missed that. I thought I read that someone did go the shorter shock route though.

Lowering the rear of the seat to the 'middle' height might be work revisiting but I don't want it to eat into the Tup like what happened on my other bike. A few small changes would be enough for me. Stretching my legs a bit I can flatfoot now but it's not comfy. If I had the room I'd be thinkin' F6B.
 
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As far as speedo error goes with a smaller tire... I dont know how your bike is , but mine reads slow as it is with a stock size. I would think our bikes should be the same. If I were to go smaller, the speedo would be closer. Just something to think about.
I dont think youll get an inch of drop from the tire alone. I agree with Phil that it will be a combination of things, if possible at all
 
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i've read the whole thread and SWORE at some point someone made a "dog bone" link to drop the rear end....
I'd be REALLY interested in seeing how they did that. Other bikes that use a "dog bone" approach already have a "dog bone" like in their suspension. You just swap it out for a shorter or longer one (depending on the location). Since we have a solid lower mount, you'd have to use a block as far as my understanding goes. Also, I tried to see if moving the lower mount would be possible but the battery box quickly gets in the way. Not saying it can't be done. Just saying I can't see how and would love to be educated. Time to search some more....
 
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Dog bone was the wrong term, more like a billet "relocator" if you will...inwill see what i can dig up.
Awesome. I know motowerks make those for the Versus and a couple of other bikes but not the ST. Haven't found anywhere else that makes them. Hope you can find it. Would be much easier to order than a $500+ shock...
 
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Wow I just bought a lowered 04 st1300 with 48000 miles has new rear shock and lowered front forks.I think this is the bike you need, I did not know it was lowered when I picked it up at dealer. I then called the previous owner and he told me he had just installed a progressive rear shock and had the forks reworked[lowered one inch]. I am running the seat full up and it is ok for me.
 
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Wow I just bought a lowered 04 st1300 with 48000 miles has new rear shock and lowered front forks.I think this is the bike you need, I did not know it was lowered when I picked it up at dealer. I then called the previous owner and he told me he had just installed a progressive rear shock and had the forks reworked[lowered one inch]. I am running the seat full up and it is ok for me.
Yep. That's my next step. Ordering a lowering shock. Progressive or Wilbur probably. Going to get a Corbin seat (close version) too just to get as much contact with the ground as I can. Put about 500 miles on her this week and have no issues at normal stops but backing that thing up when you can barely touch the pads of your feet is tough...
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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That's my next step. Ordering a lowering shock. Progressive or Wilbur probably.
I'm very interested in your progress. A little better footing would be nice though I can 'get by' without it. Backing up puts me on the balls of my feet not on tip toe but I'd like my feet 'more planted'.

With a Helibar riser raising the forks might not get me much and I don't think my lack of riding skill would benefit anyway.
 

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I'm curious about how far you can raise the forks in the triple clamps. Quick glance looks like the fork tube will hit the underside of the handle bar in less than 1/4 inch, or about 5 mm.
 
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