Farkler's fuse box mod

The ST11 is a bit lacking in electrical add-on support, as we all know. I spent some time digging around on the web for options. The PC-8 from eastern beaver looks really appealing. There's another one that was really appealing that had a 30A relay built into it (can't recall the name atm). The issue I'm seeing with these setups and all the rest of the ways to tackle this problem is packaging. I didn't want to use up the little bit of storage space on electrical components that could of and should of came from the factory. I prefer to carry at least 'some' tools with me, be it crappy factory tools (which aren't really that bad in a pinch), or otherwise, in those precious spaces so I don't have to take up any room in my bags instead.

So after another exhaustive search of eBay, amazon, and various electrical supply places, I found this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Car-Boat-Automotive-Circuit-Block-Holder-ATC-ATO-12V-32V-/361652998079?hash=item543432cfbf:g:Y30AAOSw-FZXj69f

Ok, so you may be wondering..."Where the heck is he gonna put that??" The answer is simple...
I replaced the factory fuse box with it!
It was really simple. The new box has a row for power (one side of the fuse), and the circuit row (the other side of the fuse). The power row has 2 divided strips of 6, presumably for a constant hot, and a switched side. All I did was take out both strips of the power side, and used the 1 wire already crimped to one strip, and crimped the free end to the other strip. It basically just makes them all switched power. I had already done the relay mod, so the power out from the relay was the ONLY wire I had to solder to the fuse box. I also separated 2 terminals from the power side, because the fan circuit (BE/O wire), and the ignition (R wire) are separate from the switched power.

So here is the best part. The terminals that factory Honda used are the same ones they use in the ebay box! All I did is unclip the terminals from the factory fuse box, and plugged them into the new slots (after taking out most of the new ones). There are 7 +1(factory customer accessory). Not counting the customer accessory, you end up gaining 5 extra fused circuits. Personally, I think that should be enough to run anything you might want to run. I plan on running 3 circuits to the front, and 2+1 to the rear.

As far as mounting the new box....It fits almost perfect in place of the old one, right beside the battery. Drill 2 holes into the plastic on the back side, and add a 2 inch plastic spacer behind the top hole. That's it. I'm going to dremel the original fuse holder lugs off, just so its not so tight against the negative cable and battery. There's probably a 1/2" of gap between the fuse box lid and the side cover. Another cool thing is you can use regular ATO plastic fuses OR mini fuses (which I used cause I had the most of those) Hope you guys appreciate the leg work, lol! It's working awesome. Only thing that was a PITA, was trying to stuff the relay (and fancy relay holder) in to where I could get the side cover on. I may try to find a smaller high amp relay later on, or just relocate it over to the other side by the overflow tank somewhere. Only other thing I have planned, is making some new labels to make it look even more factory. Here's some pics...let me know what you guys think!

https://www.snapfish.com/library/share?w=snapfish_us&c=snapfish&l=en_US#vi7qsO0nVrxi6H8nFXaZOg/AUS/27941465158070/SNAPFISH

Frank

That's some nice work that I'd never attempt. Props! And those are some nice looking crimps! Specifically what brand/model crimper did you use?

Nice!

In my defense of not finding something like this, wanting to add farkles after a 40A upgrade, I like what I did. Props foreseeing you could better use the space they already occupied, I put mine under the seat.
Since the fuse block you ordered was pre wired, did you choose a larger gauge to replace those, or was it sufficient?
My relay came with what looked like 13ga. A bad start at the battery for the 6 space fuse block.

moddy said:

In my defense of not finding something like this, wanting to add farkles after a 40A upgrade, I like what I did. Props foreseeing you could better use the space they already occupied, I put mine under the seat.
Since the fuse block you ordered was pre wired, did you choose a larger gauge to replace those, or was it sufficient?
My relay came with what looked like 13ga. A bad start at the battery for the 6 space fuse block.

Click to expand...

The relay I had wired in beforehand with its own separate fuse, so I left it alone. It had 12ga wire on it IIRC. The wires on the box are 14ga. So it should be plenty.

I should note that I really wanted to find the same box design in a smaller mini fuse specific version to no avail. I asked the seller about it but they must of been foreign, cause the only responses were about their feedback and if I was happy with the product, lol.

As far as the crimps, I wish I could take credit for those....they were like that already. The one crimp I had to do on that part, was fairly difficult to do, since the strips are 1 piece with several terminals in a row. I had to bend them apart, so I could get my crimpers in there, and then carefully get them back into the original shape so they would fit back into the box. I just used a regular set of strippers/crimpers I bought from matco about 15 years ago. Turned out quite functional, just not as pretty.

Frank

I know what you mean about the lower profile. I must have looked through thousands of pictures online. Finally settled on the 6 buss Blue Sea make model, it had a cover. 14ga should be fine. It's worked for me so far. I'm even running heated gear on it. Truth be told I'll probably never have it turned up all the way, with gloves, jacket, soles, and pants.

Honestly you really wouldn't need a smaller profile with the setup I got. There's plenty of room depth wise to the side cover and since the plastic housing dips in toward the bike, there's more than adequate room to run the wires. Only clearance issue is toward the rear of the bike, which will be resolved by cutting of the mounting tabs for the original fuse box. I usually like to leave things to where I can revert back to stock, but this worked out so well, there's no need to ever revert back to the old box.

Frank

Bueller said:

Here's some pics...let me know what you guys think!

https://www.snapfish.com/library/share?w=snapfish_us&c=snapfish&l=en_US#vi7qsO0nVrxi6H8nFXaZOg/AUS/27941465158070/SNAPFISH

Frank

Click to expand...

Is that link broken?

When I click it, I just get taken to a Snapfish sales site, promoting their ability to print out photos...

Nice work Bueller!!
... the link works for me boomba

Bueller said:

There's another one that was really appealing that had a 30A relay built into it (can't recall the name atm).

Click to expand...

I got a Fuzeblock for my second ST1100.

A nice Job thanks for the photos, a photo is worth a page or more of explanations and technical stuff. Craig

Can you post a direct link? Just keeps taking me to the master page. Thanks. Ideas floating around in my head here.....

Hey thanks! I tried clicking on the link and got the same home screen...I'll try to figure out how to fix it when I get some time on the home computer...

Frank

Nice one ! ....This might be my next job in the ongoing upgrade, as I discovered a slightly deformed 20 amp fuse causing my headlamps not to work. Bit of a cruddy connection caused extra heat which started to melt the fuse. Have cleaned the connection and replaced the fuse with a new one. Headlights working again. Thinking this is a temporary fix as the original fuse box is 31 years old ! A nice new 8 way waterproof box seems like a good addition. Will investigate further........