Upgraded suspension finally!

Joined
Mar 20, 2016
Messages
1,196
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Bike
2005 ST1300
STOC #
8901
Sorry to hear about your shock troubles. I agree, the PS shock rebound adjuster is the one part that doesn't feel quite right in terms of design, with a vague adjuster feel at the low numbers; I've had other after market shocks (Ohlins and Fox) and I think their system are much superior. Having said that, the PS shock is great value and the adjuster seems to work as advertised on my bike. I suspect the other end of the adjuster screw is an eccentric that bears on the adjuster needle, and has a step where it drops from 5 back to 1. If you go the other way, you could be bending the end of the needle. Still feels like it needs a stronger spring in there to make the detente positions more pronounced.
 
OP
OP
Bueller
Joined
Jan 30, 2016
Messages
95
Location
Kansas City , KS
Bike
ST1100Y
STOC #
8892
Yea, I'm gonna look at it close if it gets to bugging me too much and see how it comes apart. TMK it's not charged or anything. Hardest part is getting the spring off, and that's not even too bad if you've done it before and have a grasp on what needs to happen...safely.

Frank
 
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
52
Location
CHICAGO
I have begun ordering parts for this as well! I think ill stay w oem valves just for cost reasons! if I knew the diff I might try remachining old ones as I have access to Cad Cam and CNC machining centers !
 
Joined
Mar 20, 2016
Messages
1,196
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Bike
2005 ST1300
STOC #
8901
The stock valves have good port areas, not too dissimilar to the fancy ones. Where they differ is in the fixed bleeds which allow for low speed fluid flow. The stock ST parts have machined out slots in the valve faces that seat against the shims, which the aftermarket parts don't have. The large area of the slots gives the plushness of the ST fork but IMO also reduces the suspension control a lot.

You could machine the valve faces down to eliminate the slots and leave a smooth sealing surface, and then drill fixed bleeds through the valve wall. I am using fixed bleeds of 1.3mm diameter (and this is a critical dimension) on both the compression and rebound valves. Just be warned that the OEM valves are made of a sintered metal which can fracture very easily. You might want to have a play with your spare right leg damper first before tearing the fork down. Aftermarket valves are aluminium which is much easier to work with.

In any case you will want to get hold of some suspension shims, 0.15mm x 17 in size, to reshim the stock valves. Pretty sure RT sells these. I have 2 on compression and 8 on rebound (20 in total) plus the usual tapered supporting stack.
 
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