Anyone build a heat recovery panel yet?

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I've been researching ways to keep warmer during cold rides while spending absolutely minimal cash. In doing so I've found tons of "keeping cool" threads but very few on mods to keep you warm and almost all of those were deflection or layering. Has anyone thought about or built a panel to use some of that lovely engine heat to keep you warm? I'm thinking I might try it out using some light gauge sheet metal at first since I'm better working with metal than plastic.

Template of the outside panel is in the pic. I always start with cardboard then cut my metal panels with some extra room so I can grind/sand them to a good fit. Plan is to cut the big panel, then the rear which will replace the stock access panel. The replacement for the access panel will hopefully end up with louvers so I can open or close them depending on the temp. When open, this should direct the engine-heated air directly across your legs and maybe even up into the negative-pressure zone you sit in.

The outside panel will have to be curved outward to clear the engine so I'll add some extra to the panel to cover that (hopefully). If I can work it out so that there are louvers on the bottom of the curve as well that would be ideal because it would let you ride with this piece in place further into the warm months.

Hoping to use the mounting points on the back side of the cowl that the black plastic attaches to and have a tunnel from the outside down to the mounting hole at the top of the original opening as well as the original plastic rivet on the access panel.

Obvious draw backs of something like this are that you'd have to pull the entire cowl to do any service (not a big deal) and that you'd most likely have to pull it off and put the stock pieces back on for summer months.

Thoughts? Particularly interested to hear if anyone has tried this and, if so, what they learned.
 

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Interesting concept... Perhaps the additional panels can attach to the oem parts via clips or screws such that they are easy to remove based on weather?
Additionally, heated gear works great and doesn't have to cost much. Have had my DIY jacket for 4 seasons now, and cost a total of $20:
Goodwill windbreaker: $5
40' Teflon coated wire: $5
LED Dimmer for control: $5
Plug and jack for power: $5
 
OP
OP
Cvillechopper
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Interesting concept... Perhaps the additional panels can attach to the oem parts via clips or screws such that they are easy to remove based on weather?
Additionally, heated gear works great and doesn't have to cost much. Have had my DIY jacket for 4 seasons now, and cost a total of $20:
Goodwill windbreaker: $5
40' Teflon coated wire: $5
LED Dimmer for control: $5
Plug and jack for power: $5
I am intrigued!!! Did you happen to take picks and/or post the process/parts details? I'd really like to use an old set of ski pants for something like this. Maybe even have a connection for insoles...
 

SupraSabre

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I had to look through them, but finally found a picture of a V65 Sabre fairing. The lowers of those fairings had a "vent on each side to allow/cutoff air from the engine. They actually worked ...to some degree. I've often thought how something like that would work for the ST1300 fairing.

V65 Sabre Fairing vents
 
OP
OP
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So, I changed the plan a little and am going to try my luck with acrylic. Went to buy the sheet metal at Lowe's and saw the panels of acrylic for cheaper. Got some good 2-part plastic bonder by Gorilla and will probably use a couple of scrap PVC pieces for support bracing. Only concern is how the acrylic will hold up against the heat. I put the heat gun on it to help with the first cut and the panel wanted to warp a little. That's a good thing for getting the bends right but I'm hoping the engine heat won't be enough to destroy it. If so, back to 22ga sheet metal. If only I had a TIG welder I'd go aluminum...
 

ST Gui

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ST1300 Rt Cowl Cover Template.jpg
I turned this a little to get a better idea of what's what. An interesting idea. I didn't know the V-65 lowers had louvers for heating (never had anything but a Rifle bikini faring for it). The same concept could be done on the ST. You could drill holes or cut slots and then cover with a panel of some nature in the summer. It would be tough to get a fairly nice looking finish. Maybe a couple of 12V computer type fans?

It would be interesting to see at what ambient temperatures this would be effective. Heavy riding gear would probably negate any effectiveness.
 
OP
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It would be interesting to see at what ambient temperatures this would be effective. Heavy riding gear would probably negate any effectiveness.
Unfortunately, my target usage doesn't easily support good riding pants/boots. I travel for work and spend a few days out of town at a time. When I'm in the hotel, I usually have a 10-15 min ride to work but rarely have time to change out of riding gear, especially when I have to run between meetings across town. Hoping to find a solution that would keep me reasonably not frozen when wearing slacks and rubber soled dress shoes in sub-40 degree weather for short hops. Could just deal with it for that short of a trip but it's the challenge that has me intrigued.

Hadn't thought of adding in fans. That could make it much more effective. Might have to see what type of clearances I can get and what fans are available. Hmm...

Also, tried working with acrylic. Nice looking stuff but way to heat sensitive and rather toxic to cut with a rotary tool. Back to light gauge sheet metal for now.
 
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A while back fellow did the very thing you are talking about and used some type plastic, he tried to market them but they were a bit pricey, Tried to find some info but it must have been before the server crash came up empty
 
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Someone posted a thread last fall/summer in which he used vacuum cleaner parts to channel cool air up to his thigh area. Was this called a 'Hillbilly Air Scoop' or something like that? I cannot find the thread using those search terms. Might you do the same only catching warm air from the engine?

How about riding a Moto Guzzi? These bikes have large hand warmers just in front of your knees.....

Seriously, I'd look first for used heated gear and/or try to make my own using the carbon fiber material suggested in a recent thread.
 

moddy

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I have dabbled in this as well. I first started 4 years ago with a 12v fleece blanket that plugs in to a 12v port. It shuts off every 30 minutes, but could be easily bypassed, wire it direct.
Menards has had them in the past for about 12 dollars.
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive-marine-hardware/automotive-accessories/heated-blanket-plaid/p-1444445223989.htm

I also stripped the wires out and did this.
http://www.instructables.com/id/15-dollar-heated-gear-for-motorcycling-impossible-/

There is no heat controller, but I found it helped take the edge off, about a 2A draw.
 
OP
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Heat gear is on the horizon but I like to see what's possible sometimes. Decided to test the theory to see how useful this would be by taping the opening and leaving the access panel out. If I can feel enough heat from the hole, it might be worth it. If not, probably not worth the time...
 
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Has anyone tried adding an apron of some sort that would capture and channel the warm air back on the rider legs and feet?

When I was a kid I think I saw some motor police keeping their legs warm off engine heat, not unlike the heat capturing "tent" some agricultural tractors use in the winter.
 

moddy

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I think about it more on those colder days for sure, especially since my legs are cold right where they could be covered and collecting engine heat. I'm sure someone here has done, may just have to wait.
 
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BakerBoy

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There was a thread years ago where someone built something like the airflow panel you show in post #1 ... I don't recall who, when, or outcome. :eek::

There also are some 'Baker Air Wings' (not related to me!) which some have used forward of their feet and others have rigged to sit forward/over the area you're covering with this airflow panel.

This airflow panel seems a good idea for keeping the engine heat more focused onto the rider's legs (for the heat to be less mixed with outside cold air). I'd think it worth extending the panel rearwards a bit further so that the outside cold air is kept separate, farther, so that solely the heated air stream is what bathes the legs.
 
OP
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There was a thread years ago where someone built something like the airflow panel you show in post #1 ... I don't recall who, when, or outcome. :eek::

There also are some 'Baker Air Wings' (not related to me!) which some have used forward of their feet and others have rigged to sit forward/over the area you're covering with this airflow panel.

This airflow panel seems a good idea for keeping the engine heat more focused onto the rider's legs (for the heat to be less mixed with outside cold air). I'd think it worth extending the panel rearwards a bit further so that the outside cold air is kept separate, farther, so that solely the heated air stream is what bathes the legs.
That's an excellent idea. Depending on what I find out on my ride later this afternoon regarding the innate airflow from the access panel, I might have to extend the panel by a few inches. Already check for clearance and there isn't room for even a small fan without starting to use ducting so if I don't get airflow from the access panel with the main area taped off, won't be worth moving forward.
 
OP
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I like working with this stuff, built a lot of stuff for my polaris RZR, cut with a box cutter or simple wood working tools. If you are careful with the heat it will hold a roll or bend. Its very simular to a Dumpster lid plastic but in a single layer and smooth/slick. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Colored-Plastic-Rolls-10-Ft,1557.html
That looks promising. Think it would hold shape up into the 200+ degree range? It would be pretty close to the engine and some of the exhaust heat.

Just got back from my test ride with the main open areas taped and the access panel off. There is definitely some air flow pushing the hot air onto my knees. Ambient temp was low 50s and I was in light jeans but could feel the warmth on my knees at 55mph. Not bad. Might have to keep pushing on...
 

Andrew Shadow

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Several times I have mused about getting some car dash vents from a scrap yard- the old type that you could completely close- and then cutting in to the fairing and mounting them. They could be opened in the cold, closed in the warmth, directed up or down and side-to-side. Never went any further than musing about it. Don't even know if there would be enough room behind the fairing to install them?
 
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Im thinking the same as Andrew. You can seal off the fairing sides and "trap" some heat, but then you need to direct it at you. My fairing fits tight to the frame. I would think if I trapped hot air on my bike, it would go down and out the bottom, but hey, im just guessing. try leaving the service access cover off, like you mentioned. That way you can put your hand up to it and feel the heat. If it is substantial, maybe you can make a couple of ducts with plumbing elbows to fasten there for the colder climates. After re-reading, I noticed you said that it was for short trips.... I wonder if you would build enough heat in a short time to notice a difference.
 
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liquid heating is built in....

Now it might be clever the next time you service your radiator hoses to put in a couple of brass tee fittings and create a shunt tube that some how wraps around the vertical part of the handlebars or routs through your seat.. A small butterfly valve could control the amount of heat like the heater control in your car.. If I lived in a colder location I might be temped to do that.
 
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