I have a 98 ST and think it is time to change the radiator hoses and lines that run under the carbs before the fail when traveling. They are almost 20 years old now. Are there any shortcuts to make this an easier task. It appears the carbs need to be removed in order to do this. Any advice from someone who has done this before?
98 ST Water Line replacement
- Thread starter Packman
- Start date
not really any shortcuts, but you don't have to remove the throttle cables, slide the carbs around to the side with the cables attached.
in addition to the hoses, replace the elbows, O-rings in the elbows, carb boots. Use a JIS screwdriver on the screws on the carb boot clamps, and take pictures of the boots and lower clamp positions before removing the old boots.
When I did it I removed everything before ordering parts, in case I damaged anything else during disassembly. There was a hose at the front of the carbs that was stubborn and got a bit distorted as I pried it off, so I replaced that as well.
in addition to the hoses, replace the elbows, O-rings in the elbows, carb boots. Use a JIS screwdriver on the screws on the carb boot clamps, and take pictures of the boots and lower clamp positions before removing the old boots.
When I did it I removed everything before ordering parts, in case I damaged anything else during disassembly. There was a hose at the front of the carbs that was stubborn and got a bit distorted as I pried it off, so I replaced that as well.
*Really* important... when the Al elbows fail all your radiator fluid will be spewed out and you'll overheat in a flash. (This doesn't even get into how your rear tire traction will disappear at the same time!)
IIRC:
Remove tupperware.
Remove air filter (watch where all the tubes go as they'll be a pain to connect if you don't notice where they went originally).
Disconnect wire Left side of gas tank and wires on top of gas tank as well as fuel line, remove gas tank (helps if gas tank is near empty!).
Disconnect choke and throttle cables or used Dwalby's suggestion. I disconnected them.
Loosen carb boots (have fun reaching them all!). When you reassemble you'll want new boots and some silicone grease to help seating the carbs during reassembly.
Use broom handle as lever using frame as fulcrum. (I broke one broom handle so I moved to a shovel handle.)
Put rags/shop towels in holes exposed when carbs removed...
Replace the parts you actually wanted to work on...
Reassembly hints:
Make sure you know where/how the carb boot retaining clamps are positioned when you take them off as they will interfere with other bits if placed differently then when disassembled.
Get ready to be frustrated when you try to 'pop' the carbs back into place...
Don't forget to reattach the left side electrical connector on the gas tank, the connector will retract behind the frame when you disconnected it earlier.
No matter what you'll need to sync those carbs when you're done...
HTH,
Mark
Get ready to be frustrated when you try to 'pop' the carbs back into place...
No frustration here........just spray the inside of those boots with silicone spray before carb installation. Carb bank pops right on
.
No frustration here........just spray the inside of those boots with silicone spray before carb installation. Carb bank pops right on
.
I used dielectric grease last time... I'll try the spray silicone next time!
(BTW: Good to see you posting, hope you're healing/healed well!)
I used the silicone grease that pool stores sell for O-rings, etc. Tried and tried and tried to get the carbs to pop back in, and they refused. Then one time they just popped in. Never did understand what I did differently that last time, must have been a very slight alignment change.Get ready to be frustrated when you try to 'pop' the carbs back into place...
No frustration here........just spray the inside of those boots with silicone spray before carb installation. Carb bank pops right on
I never re-synched my carbs after re-installing them, didn't seem to matter, it idles the same as before I removed them.
Me too.
New carb rubbers are not expensive (IIRC $8 each?) and with some silicone grease, my carbs just pop into place with a little downwards pressure. I also know they are not cracked or split with age. The clamps and rubbers have locating pins/notches to align to the the intake stubs, except on my bike the front right, which is free to rotate to an impossible angle if not watched carefully when tightened. You need a loooonngg (18"?) screwdriver to access these; I've never regretted buying mine. I used a smear of the same silicone grease on the radiator hoses to make reconnection easy.
I can't see any need to remove the fuel tank, all the coolant hoses are accessible with the carbs removed, unless extra emissions-related hoses on US-market bike need this. I agree there is no need to re-sync the carbs after removal, as you won't (or shouldn't) be disturbing the linkages between the carbs.
I always remove the throttle cables by just taking off the two screws on the mounting plate at the carbs, makes getting the cables off very easy and doesn't affect the freeplay adjustment. You need to do this after the carbs are lifted off the engine, but before taking the carbs away from the bike.
If you have the carbs off the bike you could consider opening the float bowls and cleaning the jets and the bowl, but that can lead to a damaged bowl gasket and more parts needed (3 of my gaskets were OK, one tore).
I have also replaced the fuel hoses and filter as these were perishing where they stretched onto fittings.
I can't see any need to remove the fuel tank, all the coolant hoses are accessible with the carbs removed, unless extra emissions-related hoses on US-market bike need this. I agree there is no need to re-sync the carbs after removal, as you won't (or shouldn't) be disturbing the linkages between the carbs.
I always remove the throttle cables by just taking off the two screws on the mounting plate at the carbs, makes getting the cables off very easy and doesn't affect the freeplay adjustment. You need to do this after the carbs are lifted off the engine, but before taking the carbs away from the bike.
If you have the carbs off the bike you could consider opening the float bowls and cleaning the jets and the bowl, but that can lead to a damaged bowl gasket and more parts needed (3 of my gaskets were OK, one tore).
I have also replaced the fuel hoses and filter as these were perishing where they stretched onto fittings.
Thanks for all the great advice. I was about to remove the carbs when I decided to post and ask for any tips. Can always use those. I appreciate all the quick responses. Will report later on how it went..
kiltman
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Most of the hoses are available from Honda, however the overflow tube you will need to replace with a fuel line the appropriate diameter and I think one of the hoses under the carbs can also be replaced with a generic hose.
I just ordered & received the parts to do this job myself. I haven't done this in 4 years and 40 K miles - this job is due.
Don't forget to replace the small diameter hose that runs from the thermostat housing to the water pipe while you have the carbs off.
I would remove the float bowls to clean out any debris, as well as to check the float level and float needle & seats at the same time. Might as well since you will have the carbs off. And besides, you can never do too much preventative maintenance !! Don't listen to the " If it ain't broken, don't fix it " crowd - They are mis-informed. I won't mention any names .........
EDIT : And check the carb diaphragm's for pin holes and clean the slides.
I would use silicon grease, not the spray, myself.
Last edited:
Good suggestion; that hose started weeping after I replaced all the others, and the carbs needed to come out; again....
5.5mm id vacuum hose is specified by Mr Honda.
To the OP: measure the length of the old piece, PM me your address, and I'll mail you a piece for free. I can't recall exactly how long that hose was, and I don't want to put 2 ft of it in an envelope if I don't have to. I've got plenty of it because I had to buy a 2 or 3 meter long piece when I did mine.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Good advice above. Some more pictures:
http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=40
HTH
John :STOC: Ten Fifty-Eight
http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=40
HTH
John :STOC: Ten Fifty-Eight
yeppers....with boots in place on manifold, simple and no mess on your fingers to wipe off, and no lube left on inside of carb boots.I used dielectric grease last time... I'll try the spray silicone next time!
(BTW: Good to see you posting, hope you're healing/healed well!)
Appreciate your thoughts!.........Could easily ride my bought new 81 factory full dress Yamaha Venturer XS1100, but was told even a 'trip'n'fall' had a 98% chance of permanent wheelchair.....to high an odds not in my favor, so it still sets in pristine cond. under bike cover in the man-cave, with tank and carbs drained.......so as to not temp me...lol. Again, Thanks Mark!
I haven't done this on my own '98 but...while the carbs are off, I d replace the clamp screws with hex socket head screws. And buy a long reach matching hex screw driver
Just acquiring tools here. How long should the screwdriver be? Bit is JIS #2 or #3?
BTW, I have no problem using a long shank #2 phillips screw driver to reach the carb rubber boot clamp screws.
You guys tech tips were appreciated. I finally got around to doing the job and all went well until I was trying to get the air intake tubes back in. Struggling with that. Any tips on getting that back in place. Tubes seem to want to move before I can get everything lined up. Probably wasn't necessary to take them off in the first place.. Hindsight..