Corbin Heated seat - fuse size

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Hi, a few months ago i bought a one piece driver/passenger Corbin heated seat from another forum member for a good price.

After he removed the seat and replaced it with another, he misplaced the wiring for the seat that connected it to the battery. He offered me a further reduction and as it wasn't a big deal to me i accepted. As i live in San Diego and cold weather is a relative thing here i really wasn't bothered about warming my buns too much!!

However now i would like to get the seat functional. I can find the connectors i need online but i'm not sure what size fuse to use and if i should also use a relay. I couldn't find anything on the Corbin website.

Can any forum members who have a Corbin heated seat please let me know what their seat uses.

thanks in advance

Panjammer
 

Dave.David

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Hi, a few months ago i bought a one piece driver/passenger Corbin heated seat from another forum member for a good price.

After he removed the seat and replaced it with another, he misplaced the wiring for the seat that connected it to the battery. He offered me a further reduction and as it wasn't a big deal to me i accepted. As i live in San Diego and cold weather is a relative thing here i really wasn't bothered about warming my buns too much!!

However now i would like to get the seat functional. I can find the connectors i need online but i'm not sure what size fuse to use and if i should also use a relay. I couldn't find anything on the Corbin website.

Can any forum members who have a Corbin heated seat please let me know what their seat uses.

thanks in advance

Panjammer
7.5a That is from Corbin, I called.

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Dave.David

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From the info I've gathered here ( lots of great people and info here) if the seat is the only thing you're running off the accessory wire in the fuse box under left side cover then that's fine. It's once you start adding other stuff that you need to run one relay and one relay is usually 20 or 30 amp so it will run a bunch of other accessories

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OP
OP
Panjammer
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Dave, thanks for the replies and the great input, much appreciated. I have both the quartet harness and a "fuzeblock" accessory block. I want to make sure that the seat turns off when the ignition is off so i'll check to see what if anything is hooked to the accessory wire. Thanks again
 

Dave.David

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Dave, thanks for the replies and the great input, much appreciated. I have both the quartet harness and a "fuzeblock" accessory block. I want to make sure that the seat turns off when the ignition is off so i'll check to see what if anything is hooked to the accessory wire. Thanks again
I just added a 3 sets of Lights heated seats and heated grips plus phone and camera mount to a relay and as I was finishing up I found I had the quarter harness behind the headlight just sitting there. If I can be of any help please feel free to Private Message me. Dave

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Blrfl

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If you're running your own wiring, the wire needs to be sized to handle the load and the fuse needs to be sized to protect the wire.

--Mark
 

Dave.David

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Dave, thanks for the replies and the great input, much appreciated. I have both the quartet harness and a "fuzeblock" accessory block. I want to make sure that the seat turns off when the ignition is off so i'll check to see what if anything is hooked to the accessory wire. Thanks again
I agree with jfheath, my thoughts were 5a, my other heated stuff is 5a, but I called Corbin because why not. When she said 7.5a and asked her supervisor who said same, I said okay. I'm sure 5a would work just fine, maybe the 7.5 is to give it a tiny bit of wiggle room before the fuse blows. Of course it is up to you.
 
OP
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Panjammer
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It's always better to error on the side of caution. I'll go with a 5 amp, it should be fine and I always have an option to use a higher rates fuse. Cheers all

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ST Gui

240Robert
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jfheath said:
Of course - design could have changed.
I was pondering this point as well. Given your seat is 10 year old could Corbin have stepped up the heat and that's why they're saying 7.5A.

Although the Battery Tender bike harness also uses a 7.5A fuse IIRC.
 

Dave.David

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Hmm. That's interesting. My notes were written 10 years ago and I cannot remember the original fuse rating, I assume my notes are correct from the info that I had at the time. I'm good anyway - I put in 10 amp cable for the seat and each of the outlets for the heated jackets. I know from experience that the jackets get much hotter when there is less demand from elsewhere - eg steady riding through town. 7.5amp fuse will be OK anyway providing the cable has at least that capacity.
Of course - design could have changed. With the modern electronically controlled heat controllers, there is a tendency for heated gear to be much hotter when set to full. My Corbin just has a 3 position switch. Centre is off. I cannot work out the difference between the other two 'on' positions.
My lady says up is low, down is on fire. As for the front seat, I'm not sure if up is low or just not working. SMH
 
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I was pondering this point as well. Given your seat is 10 year old could Corbin have stepped up the heat and that's why they're saying 7.5A.

Although the Battery Tender bike harness also uses a 7.5A fuse IIRC.
Mine is 14 years old and came with a 7.5 fuse.

For ref, see "installation" under "Notes" here.
 

Chance

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Not to hijack the thread... just wondering if anyone else has run into the seat heater cycling on and off too often?

Thank you.
 
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I'm gonna hijack this thread and run away with it, I have a Corbin to which I would like to add heat. Does anyone know the part numbers for the heat pad and switch?
 
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Not to hijack the thread... just wondering if anyone else has run into the seat heater cycling on and off too often?

Thank you.
Corbin is showing cycling here.

I cannot feel mine cycling. But temp does creep up with time, so usually shuts it off for a while after 1/2 hr or so.
 
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I agree with jfheath, my thoughts were 5a, my other heated stuff is 5a, but I called Corbin because why not. When she said 7.5a and asked her supervisor who said same, I said okay. I'm sure 5a would work just fine, maybe the 7.5 is to give it a tiny bit of wiggle room before the fuse blows. Of course it is up to you.
I was pondering this point as well. Given your seat is 10 year old could Corbin have stepped up the heat and that's why they're saying 7.5A.

Although the Battery Tender bike harness also uses a 7.5A fuse IIRC.
When designing a circuit, as Mark said, you add up all the loads, add a 20% safety factor, and choose the appropriate fuse for the wire. A standard 20 amp circuit in a house is designed to carry a 16 amp load under steady state conditions (3 hours continuous load). In a situation where the calculated load falls, at say, 17 amps, you would choose the next larger size wire (#12 carries 20 amps) and use the next larger size breaker (20 amps). Or fuse.

Not knowing the corbin seat's current draw, I would guess that they are simply using the next standard size fuse.

Problems arise when you want to add one more aux. light to an existing circuit, or a bigger horn, and radio, etc.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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SMSW said:
When designing a circuit
I know that...


Not knowing the corbin seat's current draw
That's the bit I don't know. But if Corbin has been using 7.5A fuses for 14 years or more I don't see any reason to go with 5A fuses. Might be a fun experiment if there's not a DMM handy but I'd keep a 7.5A fuse handy.
 
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