done valve check now what?

I checked my clearances today and attached the results on a worksheet. I'm not sure what to do now. Since the manual says that the gaps should be .006" (intake)and .010" (exhaust), do i have to have them set there exactly with no range? The worksheet gives a range of .005" to .007" and .009" to .011" so since I'm still in the range, am I ok?
Also, if I do decide to go in there and shim , should I shim the clearances to the max spec of .007" and .011" ?

thanks for any advice...

Use the ranges to determine if the clearances are in spec. If one or more valves under one camshaft is out of spec, I recommend shimming the 4 valves under that camshaft up to the maximum value (.007 for intakes and .011 for exhausts).

By definition, the tolerances are still within spec. If you are still in the range you should be good to go. Or at least that is understanding.

I don't have an answer to your question Kev - but I'd like to ask how long it took you to check the valve clearances?

Pete

Many things to consider. Do you have any other checks that are documented? How many miles on the bike was this check done at?

You clearances are in SPEC. .006 ? .001 and .010 ? .001. You are OK in my opinion. Tolerances are set to assist in deciding if a change is needed. Many here will make those changes and many will not, but that choice is totally up to you in the end.

Raymond makes a good suggestion in setting the clearance to the high side. A loose clearance is better than a tight one that might allow a valve to not close at operating conditions.

Kevin_56 said:

A loose clearance is better than a tight one that might allow a valve to not close at operating conditions.

Click to expand...

Not close LONG ENOUGH to dissipate heat from the valve to the valve seat, thus becoming white hot and then blowing a hole right through the valve face.

Kevcules said:

I checked my clearances today and attached the results on a worksheet. I'm not sure what to do now. Since the manual says that the gaps should be .006" (intake)and .010" (exhaust), do i have to have them set there exactly with no range? The worksheet gives a range of .005" to .007" and .009" to .011" so since I'm still in the range, am I ok?
Also, if I do decide to go in there and shim , should I shim the clearances to the max spec of .007" and .011" ?

thanks for any advice...

Click to expand...

It's hard to see the numbers in the pic but isn't #1 cylinder rear exhaust valve measuring .008"? If so that one needs to be shimmed back into tolerance. When doing so I'd shim it and the other #1 exhaust (.009") to the high side of .010 or an easy .011.

Not to steal the thread, but where did you get the worksheet?

Thanks for the replies guys.....

Pete.....it only takes maybe 20-30 mins once the valve covers are off,probably less for someone who has done it before. My eyesight is starting to fail me as I age , but man did I have a hard time looking through the peep hole while trying to turn the crank and hold a mirror and flashlight!! YouTube has 2 guys doing it for a reason.

Kevin....I just bought this bike in October of last year. No real history other than he was very keen on service, but I didn't get any records. I do know where he went for service though and the owner said he was there for check ups often and not needing any work done.The bike only has 34,000 kms on it but its all about how it was set up from the factory I guess.I would definitely set the clearances to the high side of the range if that's the OK from this site. I'd just rather not pull the cams if I don't need to.

Dave.....sorry for the blurry work sheet pic, both #1 cylinder exhausts are at .009" I was worried that being under .010" for exhaust and under .006" on the intakes meant I would have to change a lot of shims which isn't normal from what I've read. But if the general consensus is that I'm still good, I might leave well enough alone.

SMSW said:

Not to steal the thread, but where did you get the worksheet?

Click to expand...

From this site. I'll try to find it for you ........

Kevcules said:

....
Dave.....sorry for the blurry work sheet pic, both #1 cylinder exhausts are at .009" I was worried that being under .010" for exhaust and under .006" on the intakes meant I would have to change a lot of shims which isn't normal from what I've read. But if the general consensus is that I'm still good, I might leave well enough alone.

Click to expand...

All good then. Range of tolerances have been covered and you are within them.

Snug up your coolant clamps while you have the tupperware off. You may not have any leaks now,,, but repetative heating cooling cycles will loosen them up eventually. Cat'

SMSW said:

Not to steal the thread, but where did you get the worksheet?

Click to expand...

Sorry, I know the worksheet is here somewhere, but did know where to quickly find John Hudson's (STOC 8086) moST excellent valve clearance worksheets for the -
ST1300: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=7659
and ST1100: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=4727

edit: here is the ST-Owners link: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?72139-ST1300-Valve-Clearance-Worksheet

John

John OoSTerhuis said:

Sorry, I know the worksheet is here somewhere, but did know where to quickly find John Hudson's moST excellent valve clearance worksheets for the -
ST1300: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=7659
and ST1100: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=4727

John

Click to expand...

Thanks John....I looked for that worksheet and couldn't find it and not sure how to link up the pdf that I have.

Catmandu2 said:

Snug up your coolant clamps while you have the tupperware off. You may not have any leaks now,,, but repetative heating cooling cycles will loosen them up eventually. Cat'

Click to expand...

good advice.....I already did that too. Not too tight either I was warned. I'll see what else I can do before the tupperware goes back on soon...

Thank you John, and Kevin.

Kevcules said:

Thanks John....I looked for that worksheet and couldn't find it and not sure how to link up the pdf that I have.

Click to expand...

I edited my poST (#13) to add this forum's link: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?72139-ST1300-Valve-Clearance-Worksheet

Kevcules said:

... My eyesight is starting to fail me as I age , but man did I have a hard time looking through the peep hole while trying to turn the crank and hold a mirror and flashlight!! YouTube has 2 guys doing it for a reason.

Click to expand...

I don't even bother with setting the timing marks in that peep hole anymore. I just simply line up the marks on the camshaft sprockets to their appropriate locations and you will be set for your measurements on that particular cylinder...

Scooter said:

I don't even bother with setting the timing marks in that peep hole anymore. I just simply line up the marks on the camshaft sprockets to their appropriate locations and you will be set for your measurements on that particular cylinder...

Click to expand...

i was forced to use this method too and it worked fine. One of the supposed timing marks was simply not visible through the peep hole using the 2-man flashlight & mirror method. I rotated the engine and measured each valve twice, got consistent measurements and called it a day.

anyone else have this issue finding the timing marks?

They are IN-SPEC... button it up and go riding... simple as that.

If you do something now, you add the risk of messing something up.. not saying you will, but why fix something that isn't broken... on the next check you'll see if anything has changed.