Lost Keys - Ignition Key Code?

Dave.David said:

and I asked for a steal copy to hide on my ST even though I carry spare keys in my pocket and at home.

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Just make sure that wherever you hide it will be protected from water. A steel key will rust and if you don't use it for a couple of years, it might be corroded when you do need it.

However, many steel colored keys are actually a nickel silver - essentially a brass, c. 60% copper, 20 nickel and balance zinc - and this does not rust. There are really not a lot of steel keys out there - check with a magnet. Steel is too hard on the key cutting wheel....

SMSW said:

However, many steel colored keys are actually a nickel silver - essentially a brass, c. 60% copper, 20 nickel and balance zinc - and this does not rust. There are really not a lot of steel keys out there - check with a magnet. Steel is too hard on the key cutting wheel....

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Last steel key I had was from my '70 Cougar. One tough key... with some persuasion and wiggling I could open many a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury lock.

The keys that the locksmith made for are ilco x265 HD109

Jay51 said:

The locksmith started with the gas cap lock and put a small viewing scope into the lock. The then wrote down the distances between the cuts that he had to make. He then did the same thing for the ignition lock. Then he went into his van and cut me 4 working Ilco keys that work perfectly!

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Well, that's a new technique. (New to me, anyway.) Beats the heck out of the hard way.

--Mark

Jay51 said:

The keys that the locksmith made for are ilco x265 HD109

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Yes that's the one.

The Ilco blank is a brass key with a plating. The way he made the key is easy, you start with the gas which has 4 wafers i think and the you can look down the ignition and see the others. It does take alot of practice. As far as I know there are now key codes because it is a direct digit code and the cuts are the same. On most bike only the ignition has all the wafers.

Flip