Article [13] ST1300 - Install bluetooth keyless ignition

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I installed keyless ignition on my st1300 and someone requested info on how it was done so i have put together this instructional to help anyone who may be interested in doing something like it.

How to install Bluetooth ignition on your ST
Parts needed:
1)Bluetooth relay module- Here is the one I got but the internet is full of similar items http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=141_144&product_id=906
I got a 2 relay board because it was the smallest they had and I figured I could come up with something else to control with the second relay. This board only has 10 amp relays which is not enough for the ignition, so I used the small relay on the board to trigger a larger external relay that can handle the current. Some of the other boards I referred to that are available had much larger relays but were much more expensive, along the lines of 5x the cost.
2)These boards run on 5 volts so I needed a step down converter http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=625

3)I got a small project box to house the module

4)Relays- Amazon has lots of relays. I bought a pack of 5 for 20 bucks and used 3, 2 for the ignition system and 1 for a garage door switch. I will carry the other 2 as spares. I only needed SPST but got SPDT in case I wanted to utilize the NC function for future use. The relay for the ignition must be 30 amp
5)wire- 12 gauge- approx. 15 feet
16 gauge for everything else
6)misc. items like connectors, solder, shrink tube, fuses, grommets, etc,

How it Works
The St gets a 30 amp feed directly to the ignition switch which then, when turned on sends the power to fuses A,B,D,E and F through 3 wires coming from the ignition. I piggybacked a relay to do exactly the same thing as the ignition switch so the bike will come on with either. Then I used the Bluetooth relay to trigger the ignition relay.

Install
First, a schematic:



Sorry this was the best I could do but it does explain the system. The black wires are original wiring, the red are the added wires. I was unable to explain the “ghost†relay just above the kill switch in this schematic, but I will explain it later. It involves modifying the factory kill switch

Start with the factory fuse for the ignition. It is a 30 amp fuse just aft of the battery. Here is a pic with the boot pulled up for clarity

Fortunately there was an empty, fused terminal beside the ignition wire that I was able to just slide a blade connector onto (yellow circle). No need to cut into the factory ignition wire. The 12 gauge wire goes to terminal #30 on the 30 amp relay. From terminal #87, I ran another 12 gauge wire to the ignition switch harness at the steering head. I looked at going shorter but it is so cramped behind the factory fuse blocks. It was just so much easier to do it up front and it all accomplishes the same goal. I tapped the 12 gauge wire into the 3 wires coming from the switch heading for the fuse block. When that relay fires, it replicates turning the key on. Now to make the Bluetooth module trigger the relay. I installed a secondary fuse block, but you could run the power for the BT module from an inline fuse or tap into the quartet harness. It is a very low draw. Power goes to the 5volt converter and to terminal #30 of the onboard relay. It is a double throw relay so I wired in an led to the normally closed terminal, #87a (this led in the dash tells me the system is armed but goes out when activated so im not looking at a red led all the time im riding) and from terminal #87 run a wire to the coil of the 30 amp relay, terminal #85. Ground terminal #86 of the 30 amp relay and its ready to go. Install the app on your phone and you are pretty much done.
Now, as it stands, the system is always on and armed because it has always-on power. I wanted a way to shut the system off when not using the bike. I wanted to wire it up to the kill switch. Problem is, the kill switch doesn't get power until the ignition is on. The only way to do that is to separate the switch from the system, feed constant power to it and have it trigger a relay which would then perform the function that the factory switch did.



The above pics show the before and after switch cluster wiring. I hope the original author of this schematic doesn't mind me using a snippet of it. It is a really well done schematic. The keyless ignition system will now shut off with the kill switch. One potential problem I could see happening is that if the kill switch relay were to fail, the bike will not run. it would simply mean replacing it… a simple 2 minute job, except I installed the relay on the frame near the coil. It would take an hour to remove the Tupperware to swap the relay. Nobody wants to do that in a parking lot. So as an added safety, I installed a jumper across terminals 30 and 87 and ran the wires out to underneath the seat and put an inline fuse holder. If the relay ever fails, I just need to remove the seat and install a fuse in the holder and it will bypass the relay until I can get home and replace it. This doesnt show in the schematic because I didnt think of it until after I did the schematic online and I couldnt bring it back online to edit it
While I was in the switch, I added a pushbutton for my garage door opener…



This switch is run through another relay that is triggered by switched power, so the garage door remote can only operate with the bike on. This way nobody can open my garage if my bike is sitting in the driveway but im not around.

This pretty much covers everything I did. This is the first time I have done any kind of instructional or tried to transfer what is in my head into print. I hope it is understandable. Any questions, dont hesitate to ask
 

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John Anthony

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Wow! That's impressive. Thanks for taking the time to document and share your good work. A great resource that others can benefit from.

John
 

drrod

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I never cease to be amazed at the talent and ingenuity that exists amongst the ST crowd. The above is a great example. I do have a query though......what problem, with the original ignition setup, will this rectify? This from someone who has helped push a BMW onto a flatbed because the bike quit recognizing the chipped keyless fob.
 

T_C

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I never cease to be amazed at the talent and ingenuity that exists amongst the ST crowd. The above is a great example. I do have a query though......what problem, with the original ignition setup, will this rectify? This from someone who has helped push a BMW onto a flatbed because the bike quit recognizing the chipped keyless fob.
You can always revert back to the hard key if you like.

If you don't like the bluetooth idea you can always use one of the remote control relay units. 2channel. You can buy them cheap enough off of the auction site for under $10 now.
Details here.

Another option would be to use the rfid FOB from the Digital Guard Dawg
The install is pretty similar and would be documented on this thread.
 
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As T_C points out, there are other options, if bluetooth is not for you. I thought I would point out this thread that I came across after I had my bluetooth module already... http://www.rfidtoys.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=692&PN=1&title=motorcycle-keyless-ignition .It goes into detail on how to make an RFID system, like the Digital Dawg system, using a $10 RFID module from ebay. I would have went this way if I would have seen this first, just because of the low cost. Im not saying any one is better, just a different flavor. The remote control that T_C linked to is also an option but I would modify it so it is "latching", meaning it engages and is kept active until the power is cut. I would worry about having one button to turn it on and another to turn it off. I think it would be possible or even easy to accidentally hit the off button with the remote in your pocket. could be dangerous flying down the road, especially in mid-corner.

I will add that with the bluetooth module, I have another relay on the module and there were boards with more relays available so you could control more things with your phone such as heated gear, lights, etc. I just dont have any uses myself for the other relay... yet
 
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T_C

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I thought about doing the NFC system now that I'm using a Ram GDS dock for my cellphone. BRFL did a nice write up about the dock and using tasker.

I do have one of the remote relay modules controlling the lights on my camper. Can turn the lights on to see bears without ever getting out of the sleeping bag.

Modern technology, ahh...
 

ST Gui

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Interesting: hitting the link/icon for Page 2 takes me to Page 1 Post 1.
 

harieg

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have you done an uodate on this, any reliability issues


This pretty much covers everything I did. This is the first time I have done any kind of instructional or tried to transfer what is in my head into print. I hope it is understandable. Any questions, dont hesitate to ask
[/QUOTE]
 
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I have used this system exclusively since the day I put it in until the fall of this year and it has worked flawlessly, everytime. I am however removing it this winter for 2 reasons, one which was unexpected. I am looking at getting rid of the bike possibly to move up to a new Goldwing and I dont want any subsequent owner to have any issue that could cause confusion while diagnosing. The last thing I would want is for a new owner to take the bike into a shop for any issue and they cant figure out an issue, whether directly or indirectly related to the keyless system. Easier to put everything back to stock. I only did it because the winters are long in Canada and I was bored (and the handlebar riser made it a bit of a PITA to get the key in and out). The other issue it caused was that I always rode with the keys in my pockets and on a couple of occasions, I stopped to remove the seat to adjust it and rode away with the key still in the seat latch and open. Needless to say, I lost a pannier or two. If the key had been required to start the bike, I wouldnt have left the pannier unlatched. After the first one, I thought "you moron" but after the second one I realized that I was being hard on morons and that I should cut my losses and go back to using the key.
 
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I like this. Can @T_C or @Bmacleod suggest an RFID - fob system? How about a link? Or are all of these things pretty much created equal?
 
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"I like this. Can @T_C or @Bmacleod suggest an RFID - fob system? How about a link? Or are all of these things pretty much created equal?"

I havent looked into anything more since I did my bluetooth system so I am not up to speed but a quick google search turned this up. Seems reasonably priced...

Here is the digital Dawg system. I think this was one of the first ones. a little pricier...

Here is something much cheaper and more DIY...
https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/25tjiz
 
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I thought about doing a keyless ignition a different way. make a metal disc that sits over the ignition. notch the side of the disc for grip. take a chipped key remove the chip. place in the ignition and put the disc next to it to get the disc height. mark the key to the same height. cut the top of the key off at the mark. remove the plastic from the key. mark the middle of the disk and cut a notch in the middle the width off the key. remove key and mount in the notch because of the dip in the ignition barrel you could include some metal putty to hold the key or if the disc is thick enough you could drill through the side and through the key and insert a pin. remove riser plate and cut a notch at the top. insert a steel triangle plate under riser bolts with the top protruding out the notch you made. the plate will cover the the middle of the disc. drill a hole above the disc and insert a bolt or pin cut to length so it sits just above the disc. get a ring that has a space underneath mount the chip in the ring and epoxy in place. when you want to start the bike turn the disc with the hand wearing the ring and press the ignition. if the ring is a good fit the chip can never fall out even if somehow the epoxy fails. dont wear a lose ring unless your sure the epoxy is solid
 

jfheath

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Interesting idea for bikes that use HISS, but I don't think that Canada and USA have chipped keys for the HISS system.

Have you tried this ? When my key broke , I had to use the chipped handle as a fob and use my chipless spare key. To start the bike the chipped fob had to be placed alongside the handle of the key in the ignition. That 'dip' in the ignition switch is a parabolic dish antenna. Having the chip just nearby didn't work for me.
 
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