28a o-ring replacement

I recently picked up a cheap st1100 with a bad alternator. I plan on having the alternator rebuilt locally. I also noticed some leaks around the alternator. Would replacing both o-rings necessitate doing the whole lewis pin procedure or can in be done easily?

Thanks!

iwriteiwrite said:

Would replacing both o-rings necessitate doing the whole lewis pin procedure?

Click to expand...

Yes. . . However, it most likely isn't the o-rings that are leaking. Most commonly it is leaking from the wiring loom attachment point, which can't be sealed from the outside (many have tried - no one has succeeded). Your rebuilder should be able to seal it from the inside though.

Welp...I took the stator to my local rebuild shop and they tested and said its find. Windings are all balanced and the field coil seems fine. It does leak though. Any idea how to seal it from the inside? Anyone the diode chart for checking the VRR?

iwriteiwrite said:

Welp...I took the stator to my local rebuild shop and they tested and said its find. Windings are all balanced and the field coil seems fine. It does leak though. Any idea how to seal it from the inside? Anyone the diode chart for checking the VRR?

Click to expand...

Sealing it from the inside would require disassembly in order to clean and reseal the wiring with an epoxy (or whatever Honda used in there).

Haven't got mine in front of me right now, but I'm pretty sure there is a diode test in the Service Manual. There is also a test procedure for the alternator too, which might have saved you quite a bit of trouble taking it out. However, if the alternator is assured to be fine and your battery isn't toast AND the 6P VRR connector and wiring haven't been overheating, causing high resistance in the wiring to that plug (a common fault), it must be the VRR that is faulty.

Hmmmm my clymer manual doesn't have a test procedure for the VRR. If anyone has one I'd be grateful.

I'm starting to realize how hacked up the original wiring harness is. The VRR connector has been replaced with 6 crimp-on connectors. There main fuse/solenoid seems to be welded together (although rings out fine I can't pull it apart.) Lots of butt splices. Good times. I've ordered a new/used harness from eBay and it looks like there's a lot of soldering in my future. Thanks for all the help.

iwriteiwrite said:

Hmmmm my clymer manual doesn't have a test procedure for the VRR. If anyone has one I'd be grateful.

I'm starting to realize how hacked up the original wiring harness is. The VRR connector has been replaced with 6 crimp-on connectors. There main fuse/solenoid seems to be welded together (although rings out fine I can't pull it apart.) Lots of butt splices. Good times. I've ordered a new/used harness from eBay and it looks like there's a lot of soldering in my future. Thanks for all the help.

Click to expand...

Some of that was to cure ongoing problems and to prevent others. the three yellow wire splice was to get a better connection. The connector to the VRR probably melted so spade connections were the best option. You may want to do the same thing with the new loom. You may want to consider doing the 40A alt conversion and then you'll eliminate some of those connectors from the get go.

iwriteiwrite said:

Hmmmm my clymer manual doesn't have a test procedure for the VRR. If anyone has one I'd be grateful.

Click to expand...

Checked my Honda manual and there isn't a diode test after all, just a resistance test between terminals and you need one of two specific meters to perform the test. I do remember doing a diode test on my previous '95 model a few years ago, with the guidance of someone more knowledgeable in such matters than I and I did find the VRR had one bad diode, but I can't remember which terminals were involved in the test. In your case though, with everything else checking out as normal, it seems you have to assume the VRR is bad, if you aren't getting sufficient charge voltage.