changing brake fulid on a 2012 ST1300

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I bought a brand new (zero miles) 2012 ST1300 at the end of Jan 2017. Because it is actually a brand new 5 year old bike should I change the brake and clutch fluid? Is the replace interval millage and time or just one or the other???The bike is in CA so it doesn't go through harsh winters.Also the fluid in the clutch reservoir is darker than that in the brake reservoir. Is this normal? I have 2000 miles on it now.ThanksSteve
 

Blrfl

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Brake fluid doesn't have a very long shelf life. On a bike that old, change everything you can.

--Mark
 

Igofar

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Change it asap! I have found showroom bikes to have jello like brake and clutch fluid in the master cylinders from sitting! Your pretty close to San Jose, you could just ride it over and visit me for your free OCD inspection. :rolleyes:
 

SupraSabre

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Change it asap! I have found showroom bikes to have jello like brake and clutch fluid in the master cylinders from sitting! Your pretty close to San Jose, you could just ride it over and visit me for your free OCD inspection. :rolleyes:
DON'T DO IT! He'll keep you hostage until he's done and you won't get your bike back until Larry has gone thru it with a fine tooth comb!

:rofl1:
 
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cl12000
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Thanks Guys,

I'll call the dealer where I bought it. Too new to working on this bike to mess with the brakes. that would be more dangerous than old fluid.

Steve
 
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Thanks Guys,

I'll call the dealer where I bought it. Too new to working on this bike to mess with the brakes. that would be more dangerous than old fluid.

Steve
I would ask them to change every fluid in it, including the rear drive oil and coolant.
 

Igofar

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Make sure they follow the COMPLETE and CORRECT procedure when doing these services, as a lot of them don't bother tilting the SMC or completely flush the coolant. It is quite common for a couple of the dealerships in my area to simply remove some of the fluid in the master cylinders (the stuff the customer can see) then replace some new stuff so the window looks clean (until you open a bleeder and see how bad it is down below).
Enjoy your new bike.
Igofar
 
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Brake fluid is hydroscopic - it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. After a year or two, it's shot, or the absorbed moisture may start to corrode the brake lines, calipers, etc. After 5 years the juice is really cooked.

Having had bad luck with a few mechanics in 35 years, I don't know how you can assure yourself that the guy did the right procedure - unless you have talked to him several times over a period of time on different repairs and gotten to know him. Why should the dealership do a complete inspection and renewal of a 5 year old new bike they just sold? This costs them money. Having said that, if the brakes are hard (i.e. no air in the lines) you can get away with not tilting the secondary cylinder. But the mechanic should bleed a full reservoir's worth of new fluid through each bleed nipple.
 

dduelin

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Snipped............Having said that, if the brakes are hard (i.e. no air in the lines) you can get away with not tilting the secondary cylinder. But the mechanic should bleed a full reservoir's worth of new fluid through each bleed nipple.
I respectfully disagree. Removing and tilting the left front caliper is required to completely flush out the hydraulic fluid in the SMC. If it is left in place when bled the old fluid remains in the lower end of it. Given the problems so many owners report it's just not a short cut worth doing and it's just two bolts and a few minutes to remove and do properly.
 
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cl12000
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The dealership where I bought the bike is great. They let me watch them as they work on my bike if I want to. They have been there forever. The brake fluid is perfectly clear but the clutch fluid is darker. The bike stops on a dime without anything out of the norm. eventually I will do this myself (next time) right now I just want it done.

I had a 2008 GL1800 before this and the last time I did the brakes on it the calipers were sticking and I was going through brakes on the rear about every 15 to 20 K. I think it is because I never replaced the fluid on that one in 50K miles I just never thought about it until I joined this group and started reading the tech articles and then the owners manual. My 2012 ST1300 still has the full three year and unlimited mileage warranty from the factory and I can buy the extended warranty before the end of the original.

These thing are built like tanks. I just wish someone would invent tires that lasted more than a year.

Thanks to everyone here for all the great info. I wish they would bring the ST1300 back so groups like these keep growing.
 

Igofar

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Brake fluid is hydroscopic - it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. After a year or two, it's shot, or the absorbed moisture may start to corrode the brake lines, calipers, etc. After 5 years the juice is really cooked.

Having had bad luck with a few mechanics in 35 years, I don't know how you can assure yourself that the guy did the right procedure - unless you have talked to him several times over a period of time on different repairs and gotten to know him. Why should the dealership do a complete inspection and renewal of a 5 year old new bike they just sold? This costs them money. Having said that, if the brakes are hard (i.e. no air in the lines) you can get away with not tilting the secondary cylinder. But the mechanic should bleed a full reservoir's worth of new fluid through each bleed nipple.
It would be easy enough to ask him to explain the procedure he will use before he does the job, then checking the proper procedure in the service manual. Alot of dealerships will tell you straight up, "we don't remove the SMC to tilt it, or find we need to bleed the PVC valve" etc. One local, highly recommended shop even bled the bikes on another members bike, and deleted these two steps....he rolled into my driveway like Fred Flintstone dragging his feet. When we called the shop to confirm what they did, they said they didn't follow the service manual's recommendation because they use a really strong commercial mity vac and don't need too. They also told him that if he wanted them to bleed it the correct way it would cost a few hundred dollars more!
I will also have to STRONGLY, but respectfully disagree with your comment about not removing the SMC. This must be completed to bleed the brakes correctly. I would not recommend "getting away" with something as serious as the brake system to anyone.
.02
 

Igofar

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The dealership where I bought the bike is great. They let me watch them as they work on my bike if I want to. They have been there forever. The brake fluid is perfectly clear but the clutch fluid is darker. The bike stops on a dime without anything out of the norm. eventually I will do this myself (next time) right now I just want it done.

I had a 2008 GL1800 before this and the last time I did the brakes on it the calipers were sticking and I was going through brakes on the rear about every 15 to 20 K. I think it is because I never replaced the fluid on that one in 50K miles I just never thought about it until I joined this group and started reading the tech articles and then the owners manual. My 2012 ST1300 still has the full three year and unlimited mileage warranty from the factory and I can buy the extended warranty before the end of the original.

These thing are built like tanks. I just wish someone would invent tires that lasted more than a year.


Thanks to everyone here for all the great info. I wish they would bring the ST1300 back so groups like these keep growing.
Don't trust looking at the fluid(s) through the small inspection glass, as that will not always show you the mud and muck that lies beneath :eek:4:
Search the forum and look up ST-GUI and ask him about his brand new, out of the crate, ST1300, and how good he thought the brakes felt before I bled them for him!
With all the issues that these bikes have with their SMC's you are just asking for trouble by not following the correct procedures and recommendations of service.
You may think your warranty is for you, however, you may find that the dealerships also use it to generate revenue for them doing service work that could have been prevented.
Rant over, sorry.
.02
 
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I respectfully disagree. Removing and tilting the left front caliper is required to completely flush out the hydraulic fluid in the SMC. If it is left in place when bled the old fluid remains in the lower end of it. Given the problems so many owners report it's just not a short cut worth doing and it's just two bolts and a few minutes to remove and do properly.
Hold on here. I respectfully disagree - I'm not starting a fight or shouting but the front left brake caliper has brake fluid inlets (the hoses) at the top and in the middle. It also has brake bleed nipples at the top and in the middle. If there are no bubbles in the system, and your new fluid is approximately the same density as the old fluid, when you bleed the caliper, the new juice will flow from the inlet to the open bleed nipple. This is going to happen regardless of the position of the caliper - whether it is on the bike, off the bike, inclined at 15 deg or held upsidedown. There will be some mixing of the old and new fluid , but since the density is virtually the same, tilting the caliper will not cause the old fluid to leave first, and be chased out by the new.

The only way you will completely flush the caliper is if you have the bleed nipple at one end and the fill hose (from the reservoir) at the other end. In this case, yes the new will flush all the old out from one end of the caliper to the other. We don't have this situation, so some old fluid will remain.

Now, if after sitting in your brake lines and reservoir for two years and absorbing moisture from the air reduces the density (or increases it) significantly, then yes, the heavier fluid will seek the lowest part of the caliper and the lightest will rise to the bleed nipple (if that is at the highest point). I don't know, but I doubt that the densities are that differrent.

I'll cover myself here by saying that I don't know the internal geometry of the ST caliper's cavities - for all I know the middle brake nipple in fact feeds the extreme end of the cavity so that by flushing the brake fluid you are indeed chasing the old fluid out with new. But automotive calipers that I've played with, and the Brembo calipers on the Moto Guzzis that I've rebuilt invariably have the bleed nipple venting the cavity directly below itself, and the brake line feeds directly in to the caliper where it connects (i.e. not through a zig zag passageway to one end of the caliper.

I've always assumed that flushing the brake system does NOT completely rid the system of 100% of the old fluid, but the amount of old compared to the new will be small and it will be diluted significantly.

Now, if there is air in the system, then that is going to rise to the highest point of the internal cavity - and that's why we tilt the caliper when bleeding.
 

Igofar

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Hold on here. I respectfully disagree - I'm not starting a fight or shouting but the front left brake caliper has brake fluid inlets (the hoses) at the top and in the middle. It also has brake bleed nipples at the top and in the middle. If there are no bubbles in the system, and your new fluid is approximately the same density as the old fluid, when you bleed the caliper, the new juice will flow from the inlet to the open bleed nipple. This is going to happen regardless of the position of the caliper - whether it is on the bike, off the bike, inclined at 15 deg or held upsidedown. There will be some mixing of the old and new fluid , but since the density is virtually the same, tilting the caliper will not cause the old fluid to leave first, and be chased out by the new.

The only way you will completely flush the caliper is if you have the bleed nipple at one end and the fill hose (from the reservoir) at the other end. In this case, yes the new will flush all the old out from one end of the caliper to the other. We don't have this situation, so some old fluid will remain.

Now, if after sitting in your brake lines and reservoir for two years and absorbing moisture from the air reduces the density (or increases it) significantly, then yes, the heavier fluid will seek the lowest part of the caliper and the lightest will rise to the bleed nipple (if that is at the highest point). I don't know, but I doubt that the densities are that differrent.

I'll cover myself here by saying that I don't know the internal geometry of the ST caliper's cavities - for all I know the middle brake nipple in fact feeds the extreme end of the cavity so that by flushing the brake fluid you are indeed chasing the old fluid out with new. But automotive calipers that I've played with, and the Brembo calipers on the Moto Guzzis that I've rebuilt invariably have the bleed nipple venting the cavity directly below itself, and the brake line feeds directly in to the caliper where it connects (i.e. not through a zig zag passageway to one end of the caliper.

I've always assumed that flushing the brake system does NOT completely rid the system of 100% of the old fluid, but the amount of old compared to the new will be small and it will be diluted significantly.

Now, if there is air in the system, then that is going to rise to the highest point of the internal cavity - and that's why we tilt the caliper when bleeding.
Well we do agree on one thing, using your own words, You don't know the internal geometry of the ST Caliper's cavities :rofl1:
These LBS ain't your Moto Guzzi's and again....to Flush and or Bleed the system correctly, you MUST (not shouting, just making a point) follow the procedure in the service manual, which indicates tilting the SMC, or you will just be pushing crap from one circut to the next.

You should take a few hours and read John Heaths articles and photo's on avoiding the pitfalls, and getting air out of the system, as well as his diagrams that show all the routing (in color no less) then maybe you'll understand the ST's system a little better.
Bottom line, Nobody, myself included, should direct anyone on a forum to not follow the correct procedure in the service manual for safety reasons, Period.
I have pointed out "shortcuts" to complete certain services, but those are simply how to reach areas to do the work, as far as following procedures, its always by the book.
No dis-respect directed towards you or your opinion, we will just agree to disagree.
 
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Well we do agree on one thing, using your own words, You don't know the internal geometry of the ST Caliper's cavities :rofl1:
These LBS ain't your Moto Guzzi's and again....to Flush and or Bleed the system correctly, you MUST (not shouting, just making a point) follow the procedure in the service manual, which indicates tilting the SMC, or you will just be pushing crap from one circut to the next.

You should take a few hours and read John Heaths articles and photo's on avoiding the pitfalls, and getting air out of the system, as well as his diagrams that show all the routing (in color no less) then maybe you'll understand the ST's system a little better.
Bottom line, Nobody, myself included, should direct anyone on a forum to not follow the correct procedure in the service manual for safety reasons, Period.
I have pointed out "shortcuts" to complete certain services, but those are simply how to reach areas to do the work, as far as following procedures, its always by the book.
No dis-respect directed towards you or your opinion, we will just agree to disagree.
I've read John's great articles on the brake system. I've printed them out and put them in my looseleaf for my 1300. What I don't understand, is if there is no air in the system, why you have to tilt the SMC to get the old brake fluid out. The old liquid will not behave like air. It does not compress. It will not rise to the top or sink to the bottom of the caliper. It will simply be pushed out the bleed nipple by incoming new fluid. The angle of the caliper has no bearing on the pressure exerted by the incoming fluid (well, it actually does, depending on the 'head' or height of the fluid in the reservoir above the open bleed point - but this minor difference is not significant). If removing the SMC from the bike opens a valve that I missed, then THAT makes a difference, but absent opening or closing a port because you have removed the SMC, I see no difference - if there is no air in the system.

The reason we tilt the SMC is to put the bleed nipple at the high point so that the air rises within and will come out when we pump new fluid in. It is hard to get air out of a caliper if the bleed nipple is on the bottom of the caliper, and the brake line is on top. Durn near impossible, in fact.
 

Igofar

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John or Dave you wanna take the lead on this one, my hands are giving out and I can't type anymore tonight.
Larry
 

T_C

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The reason we tilt the SMC is to put the bleed nipple at the high point so that the air rises within and will come out when we pump new fluid in. It is hard to get air out of a caliper if the bleed nipple is on the bottom of the caliper, and the brake line is on top. Durn near impossible, in fact.
Yeah... the only reason I could see, and I do, tilting the caliper on each fluid change is that air might be accumulating in there that you don't know about.
 

Igofar

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Thanks John (typed with two fingers) I could have used you as a big brother on the playground growing up :rofl1:
Larry
 

Igofar

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Thank you Joe, that was very kind of you to think of me.
Larry
 
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