ST1300 - clutch adjustment options or new slave cylinder?

Greetings,

I recently purchased a 2004 ST1300A. The bike currently has 65K on it and is in excellent overall condition. The issue I'm having is the clutch "friction zone". The clutch engagement/disengagement is all the way at the end of the lever. So when I'm stopped at a light, when I go to pull off, I have to let clutch lever almost all the way out before it reaches the friction zone. There is very little amount of range, it's almost on or off. It seems to get a little worse when I'm using the clutch a lot (lots of stop and go). The bike has an extensive maintenance history. The clutch hydraulic fluid had been recently flushed/replaced. I've did it again just to "check that box". I am confident that it is not air in the lines.

Is there any option is adjusting the friction zone engagement/disengagement point?

I am leaning towards the issue being the clutch slave cylinder (CSC). I don't believe it is leaking. The fluid level has remained consistent. The clutch does not slip.

Thanks for the help.

Buckeye Rich said:

The clutch engagement/disengagement is all the way at the end of the lever. So when I'm stopped at a light, when I go to pull off, I have to let clutch lever almost all the way out before it reaches the friction zone. There is very little amount of range, it's almost on or off.

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The location of the friction point is pretty typical of every Honda with a hydraulic clutch that I've ever owned (four). The digital behavior is pretty typical of hydraulic clutches in general.

This isn't to say that your clutch system doesn't need service but that it may not. But if it's new to you a fresh flush of the clutch and brakes is a good idea.

As far as moving the friction point there are several threads on adjustable brake levers and as many opinions of their worth. I have some third-party adjustable levers on my ST. With my thick hand grips and covers I don't get all the adjustment otherwise possible but the friction point is moved in a little and that's better than nothing for me. There are supposed to be adjustable levers from other Hondas that will fit the ST. I haven't tried any.

Use the Advanced Search to search for adjustable levers etc.

Thanks for the reply. The fluid has been flushed and replaced.

I'm not sure an adjustable lever actually "fixes" the issue. I think it only moves the lever closer (or further). The issue of the late engagement/disengagement is not actually addressed. I would like for the friction zone to be "moved" more to the center of the lever pull. I hope I'm explaining it correctly.

Sounds to me like the plunger rod has slipped out of the hole in the brass bushing in the clutch lever, or is riding on the edge. Hold the threaded rod and remove the 10 mm nut from underneath and remove the lever, then check the condition of the rubber boot up inside the perch, it may be torn and jamming things up also. Clean and lubricate everything and make sure the flat end of the plunger rod fits completely in the brass bushing on the lever.
Let us know what you find, or call me on the white courtesy phone if you need more help.
Igofar

The ST1300 clutch takes up at the far end of travel - that is pretty much normal. There is no other adjustment other than getting used to it.

Any damage or excessive wear to the moving parts in the lever would cause the clutch to take up closer to the bar - not further out but it's good to take it apart for inspection, cleaning and lubrication.

I have cleaned, inspected, and lubed the brass bushing. It's in good shape. I will check that I re-assembled it correctly and the rubber boot.

dduelin said:

The ST1300 clutch takes up at the far end of travel - that is pretty much normal. There is no other adjustment other than getting used to it.

Any damage or excessive wear to the moving parts in the lever would cause the clutch to take up closer to the bar - not further out but it's good to take it apart for inspection, cleaning and lubrication.

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I had a 2003 ST1300 and it was no where close to this. I'll check with a guy I know locally and see if his ST is the same way.

Buckeye Rich said:

I had a 2003 ST1300 and it was no where close to this. I'll check with a guy I know locally and see if his ST is the same way.

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The two ST1300s I've had were the same. One had high 60 thousand and the other is knocking on 170,000.

If the fluid level in your master cylinder is NOT dropping over time andnthenclutch lever is assembled correctly, then you'll just have to get used to it I'm afraid.

Hydraulic clutches have a lot of great advantages, but adjustability is not one of them.

Buckeye Rich said:

I would like for the friction zone to be "moved" more to the center of the lever pull. I hope I'm explaining it correctly.

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That's not going to happen. I hear you and feel your pain. As you say the friction point would still be at the end of the travel just closer to the handgrip. And again as it's hydraulic the friction point or zone is both narrow and On/Off for most of us.

Dealing with some arthritis an adjustable lever lets me get a better grip with less strain and pain.

All four of my Hondas ('84/'85/2010/2010) felt exactly the same way. I was able to get some dog-leg levers for my Interceptor and Sabre which were a big help. Getting a better grip on the lever gave me better control.

If your '03 felt significantly different I'd guess that there was something amiss with its clutch system.

Think of it this way - you don't have to pull it in very far when you're downshifting. When you're upshifting, you really don't need to use the clutch anyway...

Sounds to me like a symptom of worn friction discs/plates

ST Gui said:

If your '03 felt significantly different I'd guess that there was something amiss with its clutch system.

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Maybe it's revisionist history on my part (or poor memory) but I don't remember ever thinking the "clutch" was an issue on my 2003.

Update...

I started checking other types of bikes that use a hydraulic clutch and their forums. I found the following thread relating to the v-strom 1000 (DL1000).

http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-2002-2012/53992-clutch-lever-mod.html

So, I went out to the garage and tried this. I filed 1.5mm off the end of the push rod. I figured if I screwed it up a new one is $8 at partszilla. The difference seems significant. I've not had a chance to go ride it yet but messed with it in the driveway. The friction zone is much closer. I'd guess it moves the friction zone to the "center" of the lever travel.

I understand this is basically a "band aid" but it seems to work. Time will tell. Also, there is very little "slop" in the lever at rest position. It's not really noticeable.

Change is hard.

This was a modification that folks started trying a few years back...Yes it moved the "friction zone" a little closer, however, it could also cause problems with your clutch lever switch! That little tab that it rests against now comes into play, and you don't want that breaking on you far away from home.
.02

Why would you want the friction zone closer? Maybe 3/4 way out but 1/2 way would be to close I'd think?

drtyrrel said:

Why would you want the friction zone closer? Maybe 3/4 way out but 1/2 way would be to close I'd think?

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The same reason some people like the stock seat and some want a russell...just personal preference. I personally find the friction zone easier to modulate in low speed maneuvers with it closer to the grip.

The great thing about it...if you are happy with your bike, you don't have to change anything.

drtyrrel said:

Why would you want the friction zone closer? Maybe 3/4 way out but 1/2 way would be to close I'd think?

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It's a matter of personal preference which is exactly what adjustable levers accomplish. For me moving it closer means a better grip which translates into better control and less pain. 'Too close' would only be a real issue if you couldn't fully disengage the clutch or for some reason couldn't control it as well. With the On/Off nature the lever doesn't have to move a whole lot in the first place.

It's it's not quite half-way for me and I'd move it closer except because of my fat handgrip and cover it won't activate the clutch switch. Until you trying yourself you won't know. And if you're content with the OEM feel there's no need to try.

Buckeye Rich said:

Also, there is very little "slop" in the lever at rest position. It's not really noticeable.

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That might bug me a little but it would still be a decent trade-off. I like your comment of revisionist history/memory. I was considering that possibility but had no clue as to how long it had been between your '03 and this bike.

With the engine off you should be able to hear the clutch interlock switch click. Where is the lever when that happens? Anyway it's well that you found some improvement and at minimal expense.

This sounds funny to me because on bikes that I can adjust I always move the engagement point aout near the end so you dont have to pull the clutch all the way in. I put some of those adjustable levers on my VFR and love them!