Coolant leak.

Hi everyone,

Bike is out of hibernation and foot now healed. Managed to fix heated grips. Was a cable forgot to hook up when reinstalling battery. See other post lol.
Anyway, bike out shed. All usual checks and noticed overflow reservoir has coolant just above low mark. I'm sure it was nearer half way or less during winter.
Anyway noticed pink spots behind the reservoir on the engine and some on other side too same area.
I went for a run as need to check reservoir at operating temperature as radiator full after checking last time.
Ran bike 60 miles variety traffic conditions.
In traffic and at standstill temp gauge sits at between 12 and 1 o'clock.
Fan kicks in every time and gauge goes to 12 or 11.
Under riding conditions fast roads etc and motorway and streets gauge sits at 8 to 9 o'clock position outwith the C marker etc. Not very warm here in Scotland at the moment either.
Upon checking the reservoir after run the coolant level is just below the upper level. Nearly on it which is normal I assume from manual.
Going to check reservoir level again once bike cools down. Again first time owning one of these and first chance to properly get it out shed etc due to winter and other circumstances. Any input appreciated and photos attached. 1st pic is right hand side at reservoir and 2nd other side same area.
By the way bike is st1100 2001 abs/tcs/cbs with 32400 miles.

Cheers

Peter


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Check the overflow tube at the radiator cap and see if it's compromised. If so cut the tube back 1" and clean the tube at the cap and reinstall the hose. ( check to see if the hose isn't blocked from crude further down the line. Your temp gauge is indicating normal operation

kiltman said:

Check the overflow tube at the radiator cap and see if it's compromised. If so cut the tube back 1" and clean the tube at the cap and reinstall the hose. ( check to see if the hose isn't blocked from crude further down the line. Your temp gauge is indicating normal operation

Click to expand...

Thanks for reply,

What about the coolant marks in the photos. Would overflow tube cause this?
Is this the same tube that runs to reservoir?

Many thanks [emoji4]

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BonScott77 said:

What about the coolant marks in the photos. Would overflow tube cause this?

Click to expand...

No. Those could indicate some leakage from the hose connections buried in the V of the engine, under the carbs. Not uncommon for the clamps to be a bit loose. Best way to get a look is to remove the fuel tank and get a look inside. Best to pull the tank when near empty. Mind the wires connected on the left side of the tank before you pull the tank and rip them off.

BonScott77 said:

Is this the same tube that runs to reservoir?

Click to expand...

Yes.

Are these marks coolant? What colour is your coolant mix, pink/red would be unusual. I think?
What you are describing at the expansion tank sounds normal, when the engine is hot coolant gets pushed into tank and sucks it back as it cools. If it's moving fluid around the connection pipe is probably ok.
I'm not saying it isn't worth a look but why not top it up to correct level, run it a while and keep an eye on it.
At least with the temp gauge you will have an early warning if things warm up.
Upt'North.

The coolant in the bike is pink. Think I may have a slight leak as when bike cold in storage I am sure it was between the upper and lower levels. Seems to have dropped slightly to just above the lower mark and upon inspection I noticed the marks that you can see in photos.

Cheers mate

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Bush said:

No. Those could indicate some leakage from the hose connections buried in the V of the engine, under the carbs. Not uncommon for the clamps to be a bit loose. Best way to get a look is to remove the fuel tank and get a look inside. Best to pull the tank when near empty. Mind the wires connected on the left side of the tank before you pull the tank and rip them off.



Yes.

Click to expand...

Thanks Bush will investigate. Should I continue to run the bike in the meantime. I have other service bits I'm planning to do as new owner. Oils plugs filters etc and a wee carb balance.

Thanks again

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BonScott77 said:

Thanks Bush will investigate. Should I continue to run the bike in the meantime. I have other service bits I'm planning to do as new owner. Oils plugs filters etc and a wee carb balance.

Thanks again

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Click to expand...

Shouldn't be a problem running. Those hose clamp leaks are usually very minor and happen when you have cold ambient temperatures (over winter). The hoses shrink just enough to cause a wee amount of seepage. When you get in there, under the fuel tank, you can feel the hoses to get an idea if they are getting too soft, or swelling from age.

Bush said:

Shouldn't be a problem running. Those hose clamp leaks are usually very minor and happen when you have cold ambient temperatures (over winter). The hoses shrink just enough to cause a wee amount of seepage. When you get in there, under the fuel tank, you can feel the hoses to get an idea if they are getting too soft, or swelling from age.

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How much access is there Bush with fuel tank removed? Can you see everything within the V? Fuel tank easy to draw out?

Cheers mate

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Based on your first statement, if anything I would suspect the overflow line where it attaches to radiator top ear near rad. cap has a split in it. Inspect that hose CLOSELY at that location. Problem is, when hose gets a split in it at that location, coolant can push out to overflow tank. When system cools off, hose having a split won't allow coolant to contract back into system. The 12-1o'clock position of temp. gauge is also a bit high under any operation conditions, which tells me actual coolant level in radiator IS to low. When bike is cool and hasn't run, I'd remove that right fairing compartment, remove radiator cap and absolutely make sure coolant level is at the very top of radiator. After which I would inspect that overflow hose for a split where it connects to rad. top near the rad. cap. After doing that, and everything is full, with no splits in that overflow hose, ride bike a bit and see if there is any change as to where temp. gauge sets as opposed to before checking things. I just make these referances because my bike was caught displaying the same scenario, until I topped off radiator full and cut the split piece off of overflow hose and re-installed. Hope all that was of some help.

Brant said:

Based on your first statement, if anything I would suspect the overflow line where it attaches to radiator top ear near rad. cap has a split in it.

Click to expand...

His first statement clearly says the level in the reservoir has dropped. If the overflow hose had a split, the reservoir level would be going up.

Brant said:

The 12-1o'clock position of temp. gauge is also a bit high under any operation conditions,

Click to expand...

Seeing the needle at 12 o'clock, or slightly past, is quite normal in stop and go or slow traffic conditions.

Having said that, it wouldn't hurt to have a look at the overflow hose connection and ensure it is clear throughout, when you do get around to stripping more plastic off.

BonScott77 said:

How much access is there Bush with fuel tank removed? Can you see everything within the V? Fuel tank easy to draw out?

Cheers mate

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Click to expand...

With the tank removed, it is possible, with some bodily contortions, to actually stick your head in there to look, but a mirror will do fine as well. The tank has four bolts holding it in place. Disconnect the wiring to the fuel pump, remove the hose going to the fuel filter, disconnect the wire on the left side of the tank, take the four bolts out and that's it. Of course, the top shelter plastic needs to be off too.

Brant said:

Based on your first statement, if anything I would suspect the overflow line where it attaches to radiator top ear near rad. cap has a split in it. Inspect that hose CLOSELY at that location. Problem is, when hose gets a split in it at that location, coolant can push out to overflow tank. When system cools off, hose having a split won't allow coolant to contract back into system. The 12-1o'clock position of temp. gauge is also a bit high under any operation conditions, which tells me actual coolant level in radiator IS to low. When bike is cool and hasn't run, I'd remove that right fairing compartment, remove radiator cap and absolutely make sure coolant level is at the very top of radiator. After which I would inspect that overflow hose for a split where it connects to rad. top near the rad. cap. After doing that, and everything is full, with no splits in that overflow hose, ride bike a bit and see if there is any change as to where temp. gauge sets as opposed to before checking things. I just make these referances because my bike was caught displaying the same scenario, until I topped off radiator full and cut the split piece off of overflow hose and re-installed. Hope all that was of some help.

Click to expand...

Thanks for input mate [emoji4]

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Bush said:

With the tank removed, it is possible, with some bodily contortions, to actually stick your head in there to look, but a mirror will do fine as well. The tank has four bolts holding it in place. Disconnect the wiring to the fuel pump, remove the hose going to the fuel filter, disconnect the wire on the left side of the tank, take the four bolts out and that's it. Of course, the top shelter plastic needs to be off too.

Click to expand...

Ok. Thanks man. Will take photos and post them up to show condition of everything. Will need to wait till off work this coming Easter weekend. Only have about quarter tank fuel so will run it down bit more.
Help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Peter

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At least your ride is giving you an indicator. On my '11 the first sign of an issue I got was at 70mph on the highway, when all of a sudden I was enveloped in a cloud of sickly sweet smelling steam. Managed to get to an off ramp and a gas station. Waited for it to cool, added water, and it came running right out of the V. I was 6 hours from home. Luckily, I had some tools with me, and I was able to strip the bike down, all the way to the V, carbs and all, and discovered that a hose had blown. I bummed a ride off a guy on a Harley(nice fella) to a local parts store(local being 45 minutes away-1.5 hours on the back of a Harley, I'm lucky I can still walk......) Managed to match up a bunch of hoses, grabbed some coolant and some clamps, and was eventually able to get to repaired and continue my trip. It only added about 5 hours or so to my day.........
Be aware, the bolted on fittings in the V have been known to corrode internally and break while wrestling with replacing the hoses. Luckily mine didn't.

Ozzie said:

At least your ride is giving you an indicator. On my '11 the first sign of an issue I got was at 70mph on the highway, when all of a sudden I was enveloped in a cloud of sickly sweet smelling steam. Managed to get to an off ramp and a gas station. Waited for it to cool, added water, and it came running right out of the V. I was 6 hours from home. Luckily, I had some tools with me, and I was able to strip the bike down, all the way to the V, carbs and all, and discovered that a hose had blown. I bummed a ride off a guy on a Harley(nice fella) to a local parts store(local being 45 minutes away-1.5 hours on the back of a Harley, I'm lucky I can still walk......) Managed to match up a bunch of hoses, grabbed some coolant and some clamps, and was eventually able to get to repaired and continue my trip. It only added about 5 hours or so to my day.........
Be aware, the bolted on fittings in the V have been known to corrode internally and break while wrestling with replacing the hoses. Luckily mine didn't.

Click to expand...

Cheers Ozzie. Cool story. Glad you got sorted out. [emoji4]

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Have hit a snag. Internal 6 screws that hold on airbox. One of them was slightly chewed. Not my doing lol. Tried with correct screwdriver to no avail. Other 5 came out no issues.


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Do you have a Dremel tool? Cut a slot right across the head to use a flat screwdriver on. Give it a bit of a whack to help loosen the threads.

Bush said:

Do you have a Dremel tool? Cut a slot right across the head to use a flat screwdriver on. Give it a bit of a whack to help loosen the threads.

Click to expand...

No dremel unfortunately. Will try an easy out. Hopefully that will work. Was ready to pull fuel tank as well until that happened. [emoji31] lol

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Can you get a small punch or chisel in through the gap and give a gentle nudge. They shouldn't be too tight. Just give it a tap anti clock if you can get in, it might just go. GENTLE THOUGH....
UPT'NORTH.