Runaway idle issue ST1300
- Thread starter Ozzie
- Start date
Dave.David
Rider
Just starting with the basics, check the throttle cable adjustment and the route they take. Also you know about the hand idle adjustment on the right side, yes?
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- Joined
- Aug 19, 2015
- Messages
- 319
- Age
- 68
- Location
- Collierville TN.
- Bike
- 2012 honda ST1300
- STOC #
- 8864
There is a wax module that controls the warm up idle. If you have trash in your antifreeze it will block the passage and the wax will harden while you are driving. This happened to me but it was below freezing when I did this. Try starting the bike and go thru your usual start up process an let it idle back down. Then take it for a ride if it idles back up it is the wax module.
When I start it cold, it's fine. Had a chance to run around town, the warmer it gets, the higher the idle gets, once it cools off the idle returns to normal. Where is this wax module located? Fresh antifreeze after the alternator change, but that doesn't mean there wasn't something already in there. I'll be pulling it apart again tonight, up against the clock. Now, it should be said, I'm running partially naked, both side fairings are off waiting for some connectors for added farkles to arrive. Not sure if this would play in, although it behaves the same putting around town as it does running on the highway for a while and coming to idle. It will start to clime from base idle to 1500, then 2000, then 3000, and up to around 5.
Hoping this is something simple.
Hoping this is something simple.
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Dave.David
Rider
Did you turn the idle knob counter clock wise?
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Yup, makes no difference once it's high idling, when first started it behaves the way it should and I can adjust the idle.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2005
- Messages
- 9,519
- Location
- Cedar City, Utah
- Bike
- 12/04 ST 1300s
- 2024 Miles
- 000420
- STOC #
- 5901
The wax module is at the other end (left side of the engine) of the adjustment screw that is on the right side.
With my 2010, I had an issue with it causing my bike not to idle after warmup. After I replaced it, I didn't have anymore issues with it!
With my 2010, I had an issue with it causing my bike not to idle after warmup. After I replaced it, I didn't have anymore issues with it!
Do not attempt to turn the idle KNOB, the service manual (warns) instructs you to adjust the idle by using the JIS screw. You should also operate the throttle when adjusting it to remove pressure while turning.
Did you remove the TB assembly? Did you adjust (not tighten) the clamps on the rubber bits to the correct specs? While you could have debris (most likely black paint from the radiator) in the coolant, I doubt that it would cause the problem so suddenly.
Sounds more like an air leak, so something miss routed. After you put everything back together, did you do a TB sync before you put it all back together?
Let us know what you find.
Sounds more like an air leak, so something miss routed. After you put everything back together, did you do a TB sync before you put it all back together?
Let us know what you find.
Dave.David
Rider
To show you where the screw is of course. My knob and screw are frozen solid. Hope I don't need to adjust the idle.
Throttle bodies were removed, and reinstalled to what I believe is the correct spec(measure the gap) at the time of the alt replacement. No throttle body sync, that's a tool I don't have in my arsenal yet, was hoping to use a friends sometime in the near future. Put about 60 miles on it today, and the problem seems hit and miss. Sometimes it drops back to idle perfectly, others its between 2500 and 4500, spun it down the highway, rolled into triple digits, pulled over, 4500. Ran a couple of miles further, 1200, headed for home 3000. Ambient air around 80 degrees.
Never over 3 bars showing, fans cycling correctly, 43 mpg indicated at 80. Can you explain how this wax thingy is supposed to work? I can't get my head around it. Researching as we speak.
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Ask Honda
Stupid design if you ask me. If ya make it look like a knob, folks will try and use it.
:chrfl1:
woodybelle
Site Supporter
+1, sounds like a vacuum leak.
Still haven't got it torn down, apparently the cable to unlock the rear seat popped out of it holder. So, I've been unable to disassemble it. However, I've learned how to get the seat off when that happens. For those that may run into this...... remove the grab handle assembly. The two rear bolts are pretty easy to get to, to get to the ones under the seat, pry the edge of the seat up and remove them with a wrench, then the whole seat and handle assembly comes off as a unit. Then you can manually release the latch from underneath. Once I get the cable back in securely, I'm calling it a day, been a long week, and I'm tired and frustrated.
Well, I called it a day, went in the house, wife decided I need to do some stuff around the house. So, now the bike is torn down, and I think I have the issue solved. I believe, it was, indeed, a vacuum leak. One of the clamps on the throttle body side of the intake boot apparently slipped while I was tightening it up, so instead of sealing the boot to the throttle body, it was compressing the gap. The wife knows me so well........ Looking at it all, there's a couple of things I'm not happy with, so a little tidying up is in order before I reassemble. Does the idle adjustment cable go through the rubber shield? I also should replace a couple of the screws that anchor the base of the airbox down, they were a little messed up before I got in there, and were tricky to remove the 2nd(3rd?) time. Even the JIS driver had an issue. A little dollop of grinding compound on the tip gave me the required grip. I'll mark them and do that at a later date if my dealer does not have them in stock(queue canned laughter)
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Got the throttle bodies back on, while I had them off, I lubed the screw for the idle adjustment, turns like buttah now. Of course, when I started it up I had it set way too high, it's amazing how many turns that cable makes. Got a good base idle set, time to install the airbox etc, then take it out for a spin. Keeping my fingers crossed.
good luck with that now and hope it all works out for you now. That gives more time to ride instead of fixing.
Once again, if not for the accumulated wisdom here, I would probably be still scratching my head. Still not sure how the leak could have so many variable symptoms, but as soon as I got to the throttle bodies, there it was, plain as the nose on my face, and I got a pretty good sized nose.