Starter valve synchronizaion

ST-Traveler · Apr 15, 2017

I currently have 117K miles on my ST1300 and have never checked the starter valve synchronization on the valve body.

Is this something that should have been done a long time ago?
I have never had any noticeable trouble with idling or anything that the adjustment of the idle screw would not fix.

What are some of the symptoms of this needing adjusted?

I see online that it is a fairly simple task as long as you have the right tools ( vacuum gauge, tachometer, etc..)

Any suggestions ?
Should I just keep riding as is or do I need to look into this?

Thanks in advance.

playfair · Apr 17, 2017

Surely wouldn't hurt next time you are under the hood.
Mine idled fine before, but the balance was off a bit and after adjusting it idled better :c)

thekaz · Apr 17, 2017

You maybe surprised at how much difference it can make

Ozzie · Apr 17, 2017

If we ever have a RTS around here(ride to sync) I'm going. Mine definitely needs it. That being said, I'm looking for a good deal on gauges anyway, and if I find some, I see a weekend meet, great,eat and sync at my place. Plenty of room to pitch tents, bonfire pit, couple of grills, and my mini beer cave(converted old fashioned glass top ice cream freezer) May even have the pool ready.

Blrfl · Apr 17, 2017

Ozzie said:
I'm looking for a good deal on gauges anyway...

I have a Carbtune II that I loan out to anyone willing to cover the postage both ways. Drop me a PM and it's yours.

--Mark

ST-Traveler · Apr 17, 2017

Ozzie said:
If we ever have a RTS around here(ride to sync) I'm going.

I like that idea RTS. Mine probably needs it - although I can't tell by listening to the idle.

Ozzie · Apr 17, 2017

Blrfl said:
I have a Carbtune II that I loan out to anyone willing to cover the postage both ways. Drop me a PM and it's yours.

--Mark

You are in VA, you have a carbtune, I'll come to you....you probably know how to do it, I want to learn. Done carbs before, never FI.

Blrfl · Apr 17, 2017

Ozzie said:
Done carbs before, never FI.

FI's no different. You plug the PAIR valves, attach the gauges to the vacuum ports on the throttle bodies, force a MAP sensor error and adjust cylinders 2, 3 and 4 to match cylinder 1. (Cylinder 1 isn't adjustable.) Undo everything, clear the codes from the ECM, set the idle speed, go ride.

The Carbtune is currently in Washington state; I can have the person who has it send it directly to you next if you want it. Two reasons you might want to do it that way instead of riding five hours one way up Interstate 95 to get here: 1. The job is a lot more pleasant on an engine that isn't dumping heat into the area where you're trying to work. 2. If something goes wrong removing the air box, you're stranded at home instead of out of town.

--Mark

dduelin · Apr 17, 2017

I did a TB synch at ~106,000 miles. I had one cylinder that was fairly off from the others IIRC and after setting all as close to #1 I didn't really notice any change one way or the other. It idled good before and it idled good after. The starter valves only affect operation at idle and the starter valve adjustment is graduated in minute step-like serrations and is not infinitely adjustable like a vernier or screw adjustment. The result is that you can get them close but not evenly level. I did it then because I had the airbox off for other maintenance but it's not been needed again since (63,000 more miles). Unless I have a noticeable flat spot off idle or idle problems develop in the future I wouldn't say I'd do it again.

Igofar · Apr 18, 2017

thekaz said:
You maybe surprised at how much difference it can make

Igofar · Apr 18, 2017

I have found that the rubber hoses age and get hard being in that hot area, and replacing the lines every couple years, cleaning out the 5 way tee, and doing a sync will often improve the performance as well as the MPG of the bike.
Besides, its another excuse to throw wrenches at the bike.

vinny · Apr 18, 2017

I had an "idle" component go bad on the wing... In fact it was the "Idle Air Control Valve". Went from having nearly 40 mpg to 21 mpg. Different animal for sure.... but because something effects idle, it could possibly effect overall performance. Idle orifices may be figured in with the total performance of "Throttle bodies". One may not realize much difference if there was only a minute difference in the balance or sync. For someone's who's system was way out, it does make a difference because I've experienced it on other's ST1300s.

cl12000 · Apr 20, 2017

dduelin said:
I did a TB synch at ~106,000 miles. I had one cylinder that was fairly off from the others IIRC and after setting all as close to #1 I didn't really notice any change one way or the other. It idled good before and it idled good after. The starter valves only affect operation at idle and the starter valve adjustment is graduated in minute step-like serrations and is not infinitely adjustable like a vernier or screw adjustment. The result is that you can get them close but not evenly level. I did it then because I had the airbox off for other maintenance but it's not been needed again since (63,000 more miles). Unless I have a noticeable flat spot off idle or idle problems develop in the future I wouldn't say I'd do it again.

I just added a 2016 FJR1300 ES to the collection and the Yamaha book says this needs to be done every 4K miles . never letting go of the ST

Igofar · Apr 20, 2017

Think of it like a tune up :plus1:

dduelin · Apr 21, 2017

If the vehicle exhibits some sort of problem or issue or I was under the airbox for something else I'd check it.................otherwise tune-ups disappeared with points and carburetors.

Except for "Italian tune-ups" that is. One of those now and then is just the thing.

Igofar · Apr 21, 2017

Perhaps....but some of us hang on to the past....and every tune up I have assisted with, increased gas mileage, and overall performance, and the folks seem pretty happy afterward :rofl1:

sleazy rider · Apr 23, 2017

Since picking the '06 up last weekend, I've been tinkering and checking stuff. Idle was way up near 1600 rpms when I got it. I ran some Techron thru it on the way home and another tank load during the first of the week. Idle got adjusted back down to 1000 and it ran better just off idle. Yesterday, it got the high speed, blow out the carbon test to $1.20.

illeak1: It exposed two things: preload was well off on the rear shock and the engine was filthy inside. I reset the idle again when I got home and set preload for my weight and riding style.

JimGregory · Apr 23, 2017

I would suggest to anyone contemplating a throttle body sync to order up a new 5 way T and some new vacuum hose. This way IF you break the cheap plastic 5 way you wont be waiting for the new one to arrive. Also with the new vacuum hose you can relocate the T or set it up like a "daddy long legs", so that no goo settles in the low spots and clogs up the works.

Igofar · Apr 23, 2017

JimGregory said:
I would suggest to anyone contemplating a throttle body sync to order up a new 5 way T and some new vacuum hose. This way IF you break the cheap plastic 5 way you wont be waiting for the new one to arrive. Also with the new vacuum hose you can relocate the T or set it up like a "daddy long legs", so that no goo settles in the low spots and clogs up the works.

That's a good idea, wish I would of thought of that :rofl1:

JimGregory · Apr 24, 2017

Igofar said:
That's a good idea, wish I would of thought of that

You did think of it Larry. You just didn't say it! (Here) :grin:

Starter valve synchronizaion

ST-Traveler

playfair

thekaz

haz gone feral

Ozzie

Blrfl

Natural Rider Enhancement

ST-Traveler

Ozzie

Blrfl

Natural Rider Enhancement

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace

Igofar

Igofar

vinny

cl12000

Igofar

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace

Igofar

sleazy rider

JimGregory

Igofar

JimGregory