Drain Plug Question

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st1300doug

Some don't replace the crush washer. I haven't for years. But- I also 'torque' the oil-drain bolt with a quality torque-wrench. I should by some crush washers......you're suppose to use a new one each time .
 

Kevin_56

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No washer on plug...hum. Stuck on pan.... no...***?

poke at the pan cause sometimes they stick.... doesn't look like it.... Miffed
Any aluminum washer will work in a pinch. Try your local hardware store.


Some don't replace the crush washer. I haven't for years. But- I also 'torque' the oil-drain bolt with a quality torque-wrench. I should by some crush washers......you're suppose to use a new one each time .
Doug - He is missing his. Hard not to replace it when it is not there in the first place. I have only replaced mine once in 150,000 miles. Many items you are suppose to replace each time you service the bike.

OP - Your bike, your call on what you do or do not do based on your thoughts and advise from others.

Bummer for sure. For what it is worth, that crush washer should not fall off the bolt due to it "crushing" and getting tight around the threads. I had to use pliers to remove the one I did replace.
 

Igofar

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If you had to remove the washer off the drain plug with pliers, you are tightening it waaaaay too much.
If the head of the bold creates an edge that you can feel on the washer, you need to replace the washer.
.02
 

Kevin_56

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If you had to remove the washer off the drain plug with pliers, you are tightening it waaaaay too much.
After 100,000 miles / 7,000 per change = 14+ oil changes. I DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. I also do not fix things that are not broke. Should have been more articulate and said I had to hold said washer with pliers as it would not slip over the threads.
 
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see what happens when you use a 2 foot 1/2 in drive breaker bar to tighten a oil plug :nanner1:
 

Kevcules

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Buy a crush washer and torque to specs. I believe my book said 23 ft/lbs.
 

ST Gui

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Is this how the pan usually looks around the drain?
That's my question too. It looks more like somebody repaired the drain plug hole than an OEM product. I've never seen the bottom of an ST oil pan so I have no idea. But I have seen the bottom my GL1000 pan and it was nicely machined and not swedged in. That looks like the drain plug hole was badly damaged and inelegantly repaired. Of course who'd see it.

So is that what a proper pan looks like?
 

Blrfl

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Is this how the pan usually looks around the drain?
That is one stock ST1300 oil pan with no washer attached.

You do want a washer on there if for no other reason than the torque figure being wrong without it. You don't have to replace it every oil change, just if the surfaces aren't in good condition. New ones are a buck each, so keeping a few in stock isn't an expensive proposition.

--Mark
 
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Amazed you had no obvious leaks/drips without a washer! Technically if it doesnt drip...you dont need one!

BTW if you use a torque wrench on the drainplug make sure theres no oil on either of the threads or according to Hoyle youll be overtightening it.
 

Igofar

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Stupid comment, but have you checked on the drain plug itself to see if the crush washer is swagged onto the plug?
 
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