Strange Problem Today -- Smoke from left side

T_C

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They never really made any sense anyway. Small motors (relative to cars), fewer miles driven
Well for me, larger motor then some cars I see and definitely more miles then many I know. Ok... I know that most bikes do trip of 10 miles on the weekend to a bar.

I don't mind inspections, as long as they really are.

Check for all lights, working turn signals, brakes and tires in good shape.
We have them here and it's not a problem and keeps some rats off the road I'm sure. Of course, most of the people know a mechanic who will pass them even if they don't. I know Missouri has a law that says handlebars shall be no higher then 13" above the seat.
Never heard of it being enforced.
 
OP
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Dec 28, 2007
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Harriman, NY
Been riding it for a week since the incident, no issues to report. Except for the replacement inspection sticker coming off. I stuck it in the glove box. Problem solved.
 
OP
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Harriman, NY
Did you check everything on the bike when you ran it after the second smell/smoke? Turn on and off all lights, switches, brakes, indicators, grip heaters, windshield, horn, etc.? The headers get hot very quickly, so the smell probably came from something dripping on them or touching them. Or, as my first guess would have been, an electrical connection that went bad/wire that chafed and grounded causing melting insulation. Your acrid smell points toward plastic/pvc burning/melting. Its been a while since I saw a NY inspection sticker so I'm not sure how it could get into the header area, or what it would smell like if it burned, but that is a possibility.

What I would do is this: 1. Pull the lower cowl off as suggested and look around the header/exhaust pipe area with a bright flashlight looking for evidence of melted or burned plastic (or even stains from a leak). Maybe even use one of those small inspection mirrors so I could see the hidden side of the pipes. If nothing turns up, then 2. Put it back together, fire up the bike and let it run for a few minutes, and test everything electrical for proper function. If nothing shows up, ride it and don't worry. Next winter, pull the fairing for your annual maintenance and look for anything amiss.
So, an update, as of last night:

Got out of work in the city around 11 PM last night, got on the bike, started her up. I generally leave the brights on as a default and turn them off (obviously) at night. The dash indicated that they were on (no surprise there). Flipped the switch to turn them off, no change -- brights indicator stays on, headlights didn't change. Couldn't tell if they were on or off, though. Once I started riding home, I'm pretty sure they were off but that the indicator was still on. I kept trying the switch every few minutes, and eventually (about 30 minutes in to the ride) they started working normally.

Suffice to say that I do believe you may be on to something about a loose/melted wire, etc. I'm also starting to think that the new bulb I put in a few weeks ago (due to the hi-beam being "out") may have been fine and instead the result of the failed wire. Possible?

Ok, so I guess I'm going to try to take tupperware off for the first time to check it out. What should I look for?
 
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91 ST1100/06 ST1300
Once the plastic is off, check everything you can see.
Obvious: Look for chafed or burned wire insulation. Check all the ground wires for corrosion at the lugs. Split your connectors and inspect them for internal corrosion or arcing. Look for any evidence of an acid leak if you are using a conventional battery.
Look for drips or evidence that a drip existed at some point...there will be streaks if an older leak was significant. Look for corrosion at all the water hose clamps you can see. Corrosion means a slow leak...fix it. Pay attention to the small diameter hose running from the radiator to the secondary tank. Repeat for fuel lines.
Your smoke could have come from soap/water from a previous wash/splash that accumulated in the 'V' between the cylinders/under the throttle bodies or possibly in the fairing ... drained out when you stood the bike up to start it.
 
OP
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Messages
42
Location
Harriman, NY
Once the plastic is off, check everything you can see.
Obvious: Look for chafed or burned wire insulation. Check all the ground wires for corrosion at the lugs. Split your connectors and inspect them for internal corrosion or arcing. Look for any evidence of an acid leak if you are using a conventional battery.
Look for drips or evidence that a drip existed at some point...there will be streaks if an older leak was significant. Look for corrosion at all the water hose clamps you can see. Corrosion means a slow leak...fix it. Pay attention to the small diameter hose running from the radiator to the secondary tank. Repeat for fuel lines.
Your smoke could have come from soap/water from a previous wash/splash that accumulated in the 'V' between the cylinders/under the throttle bodies or possibly in the fairing ... drained out when you stood the bike up to start it.
First of all, removing the plastic was WAY easier than I'd ever expected!

Removed everything on the left side from the front left peg on up. Seemed like there is a lot of grease/gunk on what I think is the main wire harness -- the one that slips into its own pocket on the left fairing. Did my best to clean it off, found no other debris/melting/corrosion on it -- or anywhere else for that matter. No leaks or signs of leakage past or present. No corrosion of any kind.

As I suspected initially, I found evidence that my previous inspection sticker did indeed get sucked in through the front vent, landed on the pipe coming out of the engine and melted. There is a clear white plastic rectangle shape there that is mere residue at this point, and is likely no threat. That doesn't explain, however, the brights not working the other night. So, before I put all the tupperware back on, is there anything else I should do/look for while I'm in there?
 
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Mellow

Joe
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The handlebar switch pods are known for getting gunk in them and causing starting - right side - or lighting - left side - issues so one thing to do would be spray some cleaner in there. I can't remember what most use but it only takes a small amount of dust/gunk to short out the switches.
 
OP
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The handlebar switch pods are known for getting gunk in them and causing starting - right side - or lighting - left side - issues so one thing to do would be spray some cleaner in there. I can't remember what most use but it only takes a small amount of dust/gunk to short out the switches.
Is it necessary to disassemble them in order to do that? And what kind of cleaner do we use for that?
 

Mellow

Joe
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Is it necessary to disassemble them in order to do that? And what kind of cleaner do we use for that?
I've never done it myself, but here's a thread on the issue that sounds close to yours:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?68359-ST1300-Headlight-Problem

I think you can just blast the openings and it will be enough.. however, I'd prefer to open up the pods just a little myself to stick one of those red spray straws in there and do a good job.
 
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+1 what Mellow said. I don't think it's absolutely necessry to disassemble the switch pods, just direct the spray into the pod around the switch with the wand that comes with the spray can to get the cleaner into the pod. CRC contact cleaner is good, and though I have never tried it WD40 makes an electrical contact cleaner that is safe for plastic and environmentally friendly. Be sure that whichever spray cleaner you use is safe for plastic.

Edit: this is the WD40 product that I was referring to - WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray
 
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