My new neighbor (my new best friend) came over yesterday and showed me how to test my master cylinder on my clutch. Before clutch lever did nothing. After he confirmed there wasn't anything wrong with the master cylinder we added Dot 4 fluid and pumped it up. Took about 50 pumps and a little bleeding but finally it works. Took the bad boy out for a little run and boy howdy is that sucker quick. Now my next project is to figure out what's wrong with the front brakes. Previous owner told me something is wrong with the anti-dive in the front end. Did the 93 model offer anti-dive? I checked some specifications and don't see it listed. I'm thinking one or both of my rotors are warped. Can they be turned like car rotors? Sorry guys, looks like I put this post in the wrong place.
Got my ST1100 moving.
- Thread starter docjones
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Uncle Phil
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Should be a little 'lever' that goes into one of the front forks. That's the anti-dive 'trigger', IIRC. If the rotors are warped, I'd look on EBAY for some replacement ones. Probably not enough metal if the are warped to turn the 'warp' out of them.
oem rotors are only 5 mm thk. so I doubt they can be turned. Parts fish for 1995 std. model looks like it has the anti-dive linkage on the left side. Also looks like the caliper part number changed in 1995. hmm
Last year I changed front pads on my 97 but failed to adequately clean the pistons before pushing them in so they've been too sticky and won't release. I also over tightened the hanger pin on one side (I always over tighten everything) so now I have to buy a new one before putting it all back together. grrrr.
Last year I changed front pads on my 97 but failed to adequately clean the pistons before pushing them in so they've been too sticky and won't release. I also over tightened the hanger pin on one side (I always over tighten everything) so now I have to buy a new one before putting it all back together. grrrr.
Why do you think the rotors are warped ?
Should be easy to determine if they are. Just elevate the front wheel by jacking up the front of the bottom of the engine ( place a 3/4 inch thick wood block between the jack & engine ) and spin the wheel. Then look for run-out of the disk. Shouldn't more than about 0.010 inch.
If run-out is less than this, maybe you have some stuck caliper pistons. If the wheel is really hard to turn , this would also indicate stuck rotor pistons. There should be only a slight drag when you spin the wheel.
Should be easy to determine if they are. Just elevate the front wheel by jacking up the front of the bottom of the engine ( place a 3/4 inch thick wood block between the jack & engine ) and spin the wheel. Then look for run-out of the disk. Shouldn't more than about 0.010 inch.
If run-out is less than this, maybe you have some stuck caliper pistons. If the wheel is really hard to turn , this would also indicate stuck rotor pistons. There should be only a slight drag when you spin the wheel.
Thanks Guys, I'll check all of the above. I just wasn't sure about this anti-dive device the PO talked about. Maybe I'll ask my new best friend what he knows about anti-dive. If I can just catch him walking his dog again.
Bike rotors can't be turned. For a couple of reasons. They are stainless. They don't have enough material to do that, pretty much a use and throw away when done item, and they are almost impossible to chuck up in a regular brake lathe. I know, I tried, many years ago.