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Thread: About the Anti-Dive

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    docjones's Avatar
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    About the Anti-Dive

    How do I determine if mine is working properly? The previous owner (po) told me he thought it was bad or going bad. All I can tell you is under medium to hard braking the front end shakes pretty bad. I thought this might be the rotors but they look pretty true. I do have the Honda shop manual just was wondering if anyone had done this repair? Little mention of anti-dive in the search.

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    Site Supporter mcthorogood's Avatar
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    Re: About the Anti-Dive

    I replaced the rubber (parts 24,46 & 47 on the front fork fiche) for my anti-dive piston when I replaced the fork springs and fork oil. After 60k miles the oil looked like mud. I've changed the oil a second time and now the bike have 110+k miles with the original seals. I also replaced the brake rotors with Delkevic rotors from Ebay because they were less than the thickness specification stamped on the rotor.
    Last edited by mcthorogood; 05-18-2017 at 07:36 AM. Reason: added last bit about rotor replacement
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    Bush's Avatar
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    Re: About the Anti-Dive

    Quote Originally Posted by docjones View Post
    How do I determine if mine is working properly? The previous owner (po) told me he thought it was bad or going bad. All I can tell you is under medium to hard braking the front end shakes pretty bad. I thought this might be the rotors but they look pretty true. I do have the Honda shop manual just was wondering if anyone had done this repair? Little mention of anti-dive in the search.
    If you have shaking under braking, it is most likely one or both rotors are warped. You would also feel a pulsing in the brake lever. The anti dive mechanism, if not working, wouldn't cause this, but you would likely notice a much larger than normal compression of the forks under a hard brake. You would not be able to see a warp in a rotor. Just being warped out of shape by a few thousands of an inch could be noticeable by feel in the lever.

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    Life Is Good! John OoSTerhuis's Avatar
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    Re: About the Anti-Dive

    Good info from Mike and ForeST. I rebuilt my anti-dive like Mike when I found a piece of the piston's seal lip in the bottom of the left fork slider during a fork seals R&R. I recommend every high mileage ST1100 have its anti-dive disassembled and inspected, FWIW.

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  5. #5
    L Plate Rider TerryS's Avatar
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    Re: About the Anti-Dive

    The antidive is intended to slow the fork dive under hard braking. As stated above, I doubt that would cause a front end shake under brakes, but a bent rotor certainly will. The disc runout can be checked with a dial indicator gauge clamped to the fork leg, maximum allowed in the spec is 0.3mm.

    The antidive is activated by the left caliper swinging forward on its pivoted mount, which pushes a piston valve inside the fork leg and closes off the compression damping bypass. There is a spring holding the piston valve normally open, and while stiff you should be able to see some movement by pushing with your hand. There should be no external oil leaks.

  6. #6
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    docjones's Avatar
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    Re: About the Anti-Dive

    Wow, OK I was wrong. The right rotor (the one on the other side of the anti-dive mech.) is warped. So bad you can see it just by rotating the wheel. Am I crazy just to replace the one side or should I do both? I've never purchased anything on eBay before so can I really get quality rotors? The price on these things (the rotors) is crazy expensive. I need guidance.

  7. #7
    Bush's Avatar
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    Re: About the Anti-Dive

    If the other rotor looks in good shape and you are sure it isn't also warped, just replacing one should be OK, but also put in new pads all round. Can't comment on the quality of aftermarket.

  8. #8
    Slydynbye's Avatar
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    Re: About the Anti-Dive

    Quote Originally Posted by docjones View Post
    Wow, OK I was wrong. The right rotor (the one on the other side of the anti-dive mech.) is warped. So bad you can see it just by rotating the wheel. Am I crazy just to replace the one side or should I do both? I've never purchased anything on eBay before so can I really get quality rotors? The price on these things (the rotors) is crazy expensive. I need guidance.
    Is there a chance the rotors are just slightly mis-mounted? ie not actually flat to the mating wheel surface.

  9. #9
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    docjones's Avatar
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    Re: About the Anti-Dive

    Ya know Slydynbye, I guess there is that chance. I'll check that out. Take the wheel off, remove the rotor, maybe rotate it 180 degrees and put it back together with specified torque. Oh, and I did find some EBC rotors on ebay for around $105.00 each. That beats the heck out of $241.00 each for OEM rotors. Hey mcthorogood, how are those Delkevic rotors holding up? I assume you replaced the pads while you were in there? What brand of pads did you go with? Thanks for the help gentlemen (and I use that term loosely).

  10. #10
    Slydynbye's Avatar
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    Re: About the Anti-Dive

    I'm pretty sure you shouldn't rotate them 180 as they are clearly marked for which surface is on the outside.

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