Starting / Ignition Problem

Looking for a bit of technical help guys.
My 04 plate ST1300 was booked in for its MOT today but I had a problem when I went to start it.
When I turned the key the ignition lights came on momentarily as the key was going into the on position but then everything went blank.
If I turn the key right round to the acc position the full screen lights up then goes blank leaving just the clock showing.
When I turn the key there is a clicking from behind the left hand panel but nothing else.
No fuel pump kicking in, no head or side lights working.
I've had a look through the other threads but can't seem to find any with similar problems.
Any problems I've found on here seem to lead to duff batteries but I want to discount everything else before I go to the expense of buying a battery only to find it doesn't solve my problem.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Shiny8163

^ all very true. If you can turn the wires at either side of battery then that is a problem. Bike won't start and battery is not getting a decent charge.

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Guys,
I have the battery on charge all the time when it's parked up and I've checked the voltage at the battery.
It's showing over 13v when the ignition is off but the minute I turn the key it drops to about 4v, even when the charger is still plugged in.(should have mentioned this in first post, sorry)
That's why I am drawn to the battery but wanted to check if there was anything else that could cause this with you guys in the forum.
The ignition lights come on between positions 1 & 2 but as soon as it is fully in the second position they go off again. They are as bright as they normally are for the second that they're on. Not dim at all.
I've checked all accessories are off and have even disconnected some of them in case they're shorting.
I have still got my headlight switch too as they changed that after I bought my bike in 2004 but all lights are in the off position.
I will go and try all the fuses again in case I've maybe missed one and will check the starter relay & fuse.
Will let you know how it goes. Fingers crossed.
Thanks again guys.

Sounds like the battery went TU. Batteries are finicky things. I just spent 4 hours working on a boom lift, problem tracked down to a single 6 volt battery(it's got 4) All batteries passed the initial load test, on a hunch I went back and applied a load for longer to each battery. Sure enough, one dropped off the scale. BTW, I just installed all those batteries 2 weeks ago, brand new, off the shelf. The battery that failed is part of a series of two that apply 12 volts to the solenoid switch for the pump motor. Which I just replaced a month ago.

Just back in from checking everything again and I think I can safely say my battery is done.
Tried again to start it with a jump and it fired up second time.
Left it running up to temperature, checked the battery voltage (just under 14v), switched her off and it was dead.
Battery still showing 13v with ignition off, drops to below 4 with ignition on.
New battery will be getting ordered today.
Can anyone now tell me if I'm better going for an ordinary battery or a gel one?

Thanks for all the help received so far.
Shiny8163

shiny8163 said:

Battery still showing 13v with ignition off, drops to below 4 with ignition on.

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Yes it failed a load test. It's T/U. I'd stick with a standard AGM battery like the one that came with it unless you're in the mood to try a LiFePO4 or similar battery. But not gel.

Thanks ST Gui.
Will have a look at LiFePO4 as I've never heard of them before I order a new one.

shiny8163 said:

Battery still showing 13v with ignition off, drops to below 4 with ignition on.

Click to expand...

Dead batteries have a pretty good ability to produce full voltage when no load on them.

Can anyone now tell me if I'm better going for an ordinary battery or a gel one?

Click to expand...

The standard battery for an ST as an absorbed gas mat (AGM), lead-acid type.

Gel batteries, which are different but often mistaken for AGM, don't have the same capacity by volume as lead-acid, so if you buy one the same size as the stock battery, you're not really doing yourself any favo(u)rs. They also have a different charging profile, so anything used to charge it is going to need to take that into account.

Lithium-iron batteries also require special chargers, and I've seen pictures of a few catastrophic failures that make me not want one in my bike. (That said, I have a relative in Alaska who spent a whole winter evaluating them in some of his equipment and had good things to say them.)

--Mark

shiny8163 said:

Will have a look at LiFePO4 as I've never heard of them before I order a new one.

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I wasn't very clear but just so you know— LiFePO4 isn't a brand but a category— Lithium iron phosphate. I've heard good things about them but have never tried any.

Come time for a new battery I'll probably stick to the Yuasa (AGM) replacement for our stock battery or maybe try an Odyssey PC545 (also AGM I think).

jfheath said:

Check the starter relay contacts, and its fuse. Slightly higher and to the left of the battery behind the left side panel. See if the relay activates (touch it when turning on the ignition).

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If the starter relay activates when the ignition is turned on, you have a serious problem.

Don B said:

If the starter relay activates when the ignition is turned on, you have a serious problem.

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Yes - quite right. I think my brain slipped a gear at that point. The starter relay is heavy duty relay (solenoid) turns the starter motor on. That's all.

However, the 4 pin connector on the relay provides the power feed which goes to the ignition switch. If these connectors are corroded, or not making good contact, then the power for most of the bike suffers. The fuse protects the 12v feed to the ignition switch. Again, if this is blown or the spade connectors are corroded, then most of the bike gets no power.

But quite right, the starter relay should not activate when the ignition is turned on.

nb the female side of the connector is always live and is connected, unfused, direct to the battery. Care should be taken if cleaning the contacts. (eg disconnect the battery)