Who understands the PAIR system to know I can clamp it off, leaving it in place?

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I just checked that with tester. The red wire comes on with the switch on. It is not live with the switch off. Are the photos clear enough? You can click on them individually. I hope this helps?
the wire on my bike that powers the orange wire is on the ignition switch too, still doesn't stay engaged more than a couple seconds. We'll be able to get to it maybe in 10
 

kiltman

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I just read this in the trouble shooting guide, we know about the relay but I'm curious about the first part of the statement. "if the Red LED in the servo is continuously lit when you turn on the key?"

If the Red LED inside the servo is continuously lit when you to turn the
vehicle key on, try removing the purple wire from the circuit. If the
Red LED inside the servo shuts off, either the brake lights are stuck on
and
you need to readjust the brake switch or you need to use a SPDT relay in
the brake circuit.
 
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I just read this in the trouble shooting guide, we know about the relay but I'm curious about the first part of the statement. "if the Red LED in the servo is continuously lit when you turn on the key?"

If the Red LED inside the servo is continuously lit when you to turn the
vehicle key on, try removing the purple wire from the circuit. If the
Red LED inside the servo shuts off, either the brake lights are stuck on
and
you need to readjust the brake switch or you need to use a SPDT relay in
the brake circuit.
The red LED lights when buttons on the hand controller are pressed then the light goes out when the button is released. When the engine is on the red LED blinks at a certain rate at idle and as the RPMs increase the red LED blinks faster.
my purple wire has been grounded to the frame. I know this is a safety feature to disconnect cruise when the brakes are applied. The reason it's grounded to the frame is it's not engaging for a reason other than voltage being sensed in the purple wire before my brakes are applied.
 

kiltman

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To be honest I don't know if that's normal for the LED to blink faster with the rate of rpms. I may just have to remove some plastic to have a look and see what mine does.
 
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To be honest I don't know if that's normal for the LED to blink faster with the rate of rpms. I may just have to remove some plastic to have a look and see what mine does.
I can save you the trouble for having to peel your plastic. The LED blinks faster when the RPMs go up. If your cruise control is working that's exactly what's going on without having to do anything.
 
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In a recent observation of my throttle cables while getting to the ignition plug to check continuity eventually leading to a battery replacement. My throttle cables may need to be replaced, possibly causing too much drag for the operation of the cruise to tolerate making subtle adjustments for maintaining speed. It will just be a bit to be able to get that done.
 
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I know with the MCCruise if it senses cable 'resistance' it will cut off also.
It has to be where I start next. Unfortunately in my haste, putting the air box back on, the cable got under it, so I likely "added" some resistance.
 

John OoSTerhuis

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In a recent observation of my throttle cables while getting to the ignition plug to check continuity eventually leading to a battery replacement. My throttle cables may need to be replaced, possibly causing too much drag for the operation of the cruise to tolerate making subtle adjustments for maintaining speed. It will just be a bit to be able to get that done.
We covered your aftermarket throttle cables in posts 40, 93, 96 and 116 and you said they were fine....

Way back in May I suggested:
then put a spring scale on your mechanism and measure the force required to rotate your throttle's linkage through its full range of motion
John
 
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We covered your aftermarket throttle cables in posts 40, 93, 96 and 116 and you said they were fine....

Way back in May I suggested:

John
Let's just say somewhere after that, possibly before I found my vacuum was in need of attention is around the the time an additional kink was introduced, discovered around yesterday.
 
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I am now in possession of another throttle cable kit. Turns out you are not supposed to lubricate a Venhill kit and somewhere in the last 5 years I forgot that. Plus I think I bent them putting the airbox on hastily. Lastly I made the last cables about a 1/4 inch too short. So, I have this renewed chance.
 
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After putting my bike together with a much smoother operation, I tested the cruise and it disconnects after a half second. My next step is to ride with an inline vac gauge after I check the vac system again. I have never been happy with the quality of vac line I got from the auto parts store. It could have just been a bad batch, but I remember taking pictures of a cross cut section and it showed a weakness in the side wall like an air bubble was trapped during the making of. So, I'm on the hunt for better vacuum line and targeting a good integrity, leak free vac system.
 
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