JTBC - thatÂ’s CC brake sensor wires... plural.
My reference is to the purple wire not being connected. So I chose a singular context. The servo's red wire has always been connected to the "brake lights constant on" wire, as shown in your pictures that shows the servo's red wire connection to your brake wire circuit.
I've read through your write up...again. And what I'm looking for an answer to, I can't find. You make no mention of where the servo's orange wire is connected and it could be the answer to this functioning properly, since every other wire on my servo is connected where you did, and yours works.
This whole time, I've had it connected to a wire that has no power when the key is off, but when the key is on it has +12volts, even through cranking, because the orange wire is powered by a connection made with a relayed Blue Sea 6 buss fuse block. It is not a wire that is 0 volts when the engine is cranking, this could be the issue.
This could be the nuance in the circuitry that is not allowing it to operate successfully.
Per instructions, it says "Connect the Orange wire from the fuseholder to a wire in the vehicle that shows + 12 VDC when the ignition key is switched On and 0 VDC while cranking and when the key is switched OFF."
Since Blayde stopped by 4 days ago I have been going over the symptoms of all the test rides. How it behaved when I tried to engage it, followed by it's 1/2 second later disconnection every time.
SIDE NOTE, this is not the behavior of the first servo. At slower speeds 30 to 40 mph the cruise would stay engaged. The new servo is more stubborn to get anything out of than the first one, the older one, SIDE NOTE CONCLUDED.
From the symptoms of why it would disconnect and how, believing the vacuum to have good integrity, have aimed my attention toward an electrical wiring problem. Before Blayde left, not understanding why it wasn't simpler, said the default to it not working properly, is to not work at all. This is obvious, because it deals with being connected to your throttle body. If it detects something wrong with the way you've wired it or your source of vacuum is insufficient, no worky.
We had the cover of the servo off and watched the LED light up with every button press. With the engine running from idle to 4500rpm the LED blinks successively faster, blue sensing wire is sensing as it should, good soldered connection.
Most importantly from the marathon of tests last Saturday was each time I pressed set or resume there was a strong initial pull on the throttle, I have vacuum and it doesn't leak. As a reminder the supplemented pvc vac container is about 8 inches by 1 1/2 inches in diameter. In the least, on flat ground should have the vacuum assist necessary to maintain speed.
I attached orange wire to red wire as shown. Red wire goes to fusebox above battery
