Who understands the PAIR system to know I can clamp it off, leaving it in place?

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That's certainly a unique idea with the pulley, but....

I don't know how well Fred's install method worked, or if you duplicated it exactly but yours isn't working, sadly. These are the only installs that I know of over all these years that do not use an attachment point on the throttle bellcrank. In an attempt to not have to pop up the back end of the carbs. My recommendation is to use this install which many others have used successfully:
http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=33

If you do give up, I'll be happy to take your Audiovox off your hands. Or ride over here and we'll get'r done together.

John
I appreciate the offer to get it on the road with cruise. I know it's not the usual install, but Fred's has worked for years apparently. Cables are free and consistent with movement. The disconnect, once it's engaged, feels like the brake has been applied and the connection fails. On my last test ride, having removed some paint from a ground connection. I accelerated from 45mph to 70 before it kicked off, I thought I had it solved, there was also still plenty of cable the servo could pull the cable, it is not reaching it's max and kicking off.
I turned around and headed back home, setting the cruise at 70mph. Once it failed, it did many times, I kept pressing resume and held on for the lurch from acceleration. Each time it engaged it would disconnect at different times on the way back to 70mph and I kept hitting resume, time after time. Sometimes it would reach speed and hold it for 3 to 5 seconds then disconnect. The reason I did this repeatedly is I was trying to sound out being a short at the buttons. When it would take longer to disconnect, it would seem that it wouldn't short sooner than other times.
The mechanics of how I've connected it are solid. Having added the arm to reduce the torque to the function of the servo (like attaching it to the bell housing) has not shown any change.
Not completely willing to give up and not knowing when I will make time for this. I will pull the tank and the carbs to put the cable underneath and route the servo cable and make connections as you have. From my experience with the test rides with my specific servo, I fully expect the servo to fail like it did with the way I've bolted brackets on. The effort in placing the servo to my bell housing will solve a couple of things. I will have attached it the way you have and if the Audiovox fails again, you'll come into it and I'll install a different cruise altogether because I believe there to be something wrong with the unit. Another possibility, believing it to be electrical or sensor, the connection at the blue and yellow coil wire for ground may not be good enough for it to count when the coil fires well enough. I believe I've entered an arena with the trouble shooting only the maker of this unit could diagnose.
 
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Since this occupied my thoughts for the last 4 days, and not stop thinking about yet and don't like to lose. I wired the red and orange wires together because someone else did and it worked, I may have wired it wrong lets look at what happened.

Here's what the instructions say:

6. Orange Wire : Connect the Orange wire from the fuseholder to a wire in the vehicle that shows + 12 VDC when

the ignition key is switched On and 0 VDC while cranking and when the key is switched OFF. Use a blue scotch

lock connector to make this connection.

I didn't really look that hard for this wire because because a lot of what powers my bike is hooked up to a relay so it may meet the criteria of a wire that shows +12 volts when the key is on (this triggers the relay and powers the wire with the key on) it probably doesn't go to 0 volts when cranking because the key has been turned, but it does go to 0 volts because it's hooked to the relay. I can't wait to find out how John wired his Orange wire. I also didn't hook up my red wire to the positive brake wire. I took it as it just needed a constant 12 volt of power. So, now I wait for the rest of the connection story from John's build...
 
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In the spirit of the 40th anniversary of Star Wars, I have a new hope. As one would, when something you've touched or made doesn't work, you either chuck it, or you spend a lot of time going over what and when you did it, to undo it, redo it, or in my case, do it right.
From a previous post of having called a possible miswiring, have realized a mistake. I can read, and I do occasionally, but what may have happened is not wiring to a + wire SPECIFICALLY for one that is zero volts when cranking. Until I get to my friends garage to switch the wire to an acceptable one that fits this criteria, instead of the +12 all the time. Maybe you can see why I did it, because why does it matter if it's zero when cranking, you don't turn the cruise control unit on until over 35mph minimum. Oh well, my teachers would tell you this is where I failed the most, not following directions. I'll switch the wire when I get over there. I'd still like to know how it's wired that way, maybe a wire nut will come along and explain it to me. mod
 
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I could be wrong here, but I believe the st1100 does not shut down unneeded circuits during a start. and since you've "resumed" without a problem, then I assume that the power has been ok....if the power had been interrupted the memory would no be there to resume.- someone will be by shortly to set me straight
 
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I could be wrong here, but I believe the st1100 does not shut down unneeded circuits during a start. and since you've "resumed" without a problem, then I assume that the power has been ok....if the power had been interrupted the memory would no be there to resume.- someone will be by shortly to set me straight
I understand where you're coming from. The only Theory I can come up with is being tied into the positive brake line with or without the brake lever being depressed must have something to do with how it senses voltage differently than if it's a non brake light positive wire.
 
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that's why I suggested that you cut n tape that wire and test drive...btw I neglected to ad that you'll be in motion and the cc will NOT turn off automatically once you hit the brake. my reasoning- I have read reports that led brake lights and auto flashing setups have screwed with other st owners. they ended up having to isolate the back feed with a relay
 
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for some reason my computer will not cooperate with my trying to edit on this site......the test drive"- be careful in doing the test drive for the reason mentioned. and don't run out and buy/install a relay, because you theorize that'll fix things.
 

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Any +12V power lead to running lights can satisfy the instructions for the orange wire as the lights are momentarily interrupted by the start switch in the right handlebar switch housing (see the wiring diagram - shuts off the high draw headlights during a start).

That said, like many others I simply used a switched power source (tapped into the main fuse box buss bar from the back side) and added a quality waterproof inline fuse holder. Hasn't been a problem in all these years and miles. I don't know the reason for this particular instruction. Power isn't sent to the unit until he ignition switch is on, AND the button on the control head is toggled 'on.' Turn the ignition off and the AudioVox resets to off. Edit: so.... turn the ignition on, start the ST, THEN turn on the AudioVox.

BTW, do not use any of the cheesy scotch locks in the CC kit! And get a good ground for the black lead from the control head.

Edit: did you snip the black and gray pair off at the servo connector?

John
 
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did you snip the black and gray pair off at the servo connector?

John
I snipped the wires. I switched the wire to the brake light always on wire, test rode, still cuts off for different reasons and different times. So intermittent I felt like returning home and checking vac lines. Oh, by the way, did not use the spice clips. I exposed the wire and soldered a jump wire. That way there was a known connection.
 
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until it's established that that's the problem- no need to add yet another layer of complexity to this project
Goes by the handle Blrfl had an issue like what you describe. Had too much power coming through the line for when you squeeze the brake and disengage cruise. Until he wired a relay to ground until he applied bakes, would it continued to cut out. I have 125mv, hope it's not high enough to disengage.
 
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What a full day, try after try after try. I'll try to go in order, it was a lot.
I'd set it up to take it out for a test ride from yesterday, with some adjustments I'd made, then ready to go.

No matter when I set the cruise, it would invariable disconnect, headed home.
Maybe I needed more vacuum. I connected the 2nd cylinder to the fourth, then to the one way valve, to the vac container and servo. It seemed to work better at first, still disconnects.
Having read about a possible ghost voltage to the wire when the brake is applied, I pulled the purple wire and grounded it to the frame. CAUTION!! If you do this, it will not disengage with the application of the brake, I had to stay alert to this fact and know if I squeezed the clutch the engine would over rev and shut off that way. It would only be a short test.
I rode out about 5 miles between 55 and 70. Going out seemed to do better, it would still disconnect at higher speeds but only half way up a pretty decent hill, never disconnect going down hill, which could point to a lack of vacuum for operation right?

On the return trip, for diversity in my investigation, I pulled over and reconnected the purple wire. Then is when it started, disconnects all over the place, flat ground at any speed. I thought, "Do I seriously need to connect 3 cylinders to the one way valve. I will do it if necessary. I can even connect 4 cylinders because part of my time was split today, taking down the vacuum petcock and drilling out the doohickey in the fuel cap, then capping off the 3rd cylinder vacuum. Cylinder 1 is already capped off. The only reason I didn't spend time connecting more than two cylinders is I don't think anyone else did. I also noted when checking cylinder 2 that it didn't seem to have much vacuum. So, if the servo has disconnected this whole time due to lack of vacuum EVEN WITH A VAC CONTAINER THAT ISN"T LEAKING, what else can I do? Let me know, I have tried very hard the last 4 days could use a bone.

Lastly, when it disconnects I am right there to press resume every time. Sometimes it would hold, sometimes it wouldn't could be the 2nd or 3rd time, then it would have a hard pull. Where was that source of vacuum the first time? Is it possible I have a short in the hand control? Thoughts.
 
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Tomorrow, for a few more dollars in fittings and vac tubing I will tie in all cylinders. That way I will know I gave it my best shot to provide the necessary vacuum. As hard as it's been, it does engage. All of the buttons work (before it disengages). Sometimes up a hill, the vac pulls on the throttle, it is like magic, it works like it should, but I hold my breath. Eventually it will disengage. It could be anything. Tomorrow, the vacuum gets ruled out. I'll have all cylinders pulling for me, ha ha. It's been exhausting.
 
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Rewind to two days ago. When it was kicking off constantly, making me believe there was more than one issue. Inconsistent pull times when engaging or resuming cruise. What if the whole time, even though I wasn't connected to my constant positive brake signal for a while, the cruise would not stay on consistently due to low vacuum even with a reservoir.
I've thought about this. There are some who don't even use a vac container, maybe just a length of vacuum tubing, their cruise works. I haven't read about anyone else having the problem I did, which is a problem in itself. What if, when I noticed yesterday adding the 2nd cylinder to the vacuum for the servo, the vacuum source wasn't that great.
What if the whole time my engine isn't producing normal vacuum with the engine running. If my vac ports were blocked, the engine wouldn't care, your engine runs inefficiently when there is a vacuum leak and my number one cylinder has been blocked off since I bought it.
So, since there is some vacuum, I know this, by pulling the one way valve out I can hear air hissing into the servo tubing. What if there isn't enough vacuum to be storing in my pvc vac tank. It's dimensions are 1 1/2 by 8 inches. Should be enough reservoir to pull up a slow incline, but the servo quits.
What if I let a small amount of a certain blend of Sea Foam get sucked into the #2 and #4 cylinder to clean them out, then my system for being connected to the servo might stop sucking and actually suck.

If it doesn't work after the cleaning of #2 and #4 cylinder, the only alternative left would be to connect #1 and #3 cylinder to the servo tubing like I was talking about last night.
 
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I use 3 vacuum lines from the carb as well as the vacuum from the fuel shut off valve. There's install instructions for Honda Valkyries, a guy in Quebec wrote it. I have one way valves on each hose then tee them. I have also set the dip switches for a more aggressive resume. My cable runs to the front of the bike by the radiator over to the air cleaner housing and runs parallel to the throttle cables. It is attached to a screw that's threaded to the bell crank. I had similar issues to you that it wouldn't hold higher speeds. My mistake was I had the cable tied close to the frame and near the exhaust shields, so when the bike was hot it made the cable hard to move inside the metal sheath. I now have it running in a loose loop to the air cleaner and it works like a charm at all speeds. What I'm getting at is make sure the cable is free and not close to any heat shields.
 

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I did do some poking around and discovered that the CCS100 needs vacuum of at least 6 inHg to function, so there's one more thing you can measure. Maybe hang a gauge on your dash somewhere so you can see what happens while you're underway.

--Mark
 
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I use 3 vacuum lines from the carb as well as the vacuum from the fuel shut off valve. There's install instructions for Honda Valkyries, a guy in Quebec wrote it. I have one way valves on each hose then tee them. I have also set the dip switches for a more aggressive resume. My cable runs to the front of the bike by the radiator over to the air cleaner housing and runs parallel to the throttle cables. It is attached to a screw that's threaded to the bell crank. I had similar issues to you that it wouldn't hold higher speeds. My mistake was I had the cable tied close to the frame and near the exhaust shields, so when the bike was hot it made the cable hard to move inside the metal sheath. I now have it running in a loose loop to the air cleaner and it works like a charm at all speeds. What I'm getting at is make sure the cable is free and not close to any heat shields.
Thanks for joining this thread. I could set a record for longest Audiovox install and troubleshooting (would have preferred not too and was close to taking John up on his offer for my CC :)
Instead of letting the engine suck some Sea Foam down the ports, in case that just turns out to be a bad idea or it isn't necessary because they don't get clogged? I will tie in every vacuum I can, all the way around. I will put them all on the same side of the one way valve together then hope for joining the many successful operations of cruise control I've read about.
 
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I did do some poking around and discovered that the CCS100 needs vacuum of at least 6 inHg to function, so there's one more thing you can measure. Maybe hang a gauge on your dash somewhere so you can see what happens while you're underway.

--Mark
I have that very gauge and it makes sense that my engine wasn't pulling enough vacuum with as many times and as quickly as it would fail. My question is where is my freaking engine vacuum capacity? Why is it so weak compared to other 1100?
 

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Some laST thoughts on this:

- 2 intake manifold ports' vacuum should be more than enough to operate the AudioVox, based on the ST community's reported experiences...
- a faulty one-way check valve or installed backwards... easy to check with a Mityvac
- after all the testing you've done, the simplest cause would seem to be excessive resistance in/to the servo cable. With the end of the cable disconnected from your fabricated mechanism, you should be able to easily pull the cable out to its maximum extension, and push it all the way back in, using only your fingers. If that's the case, then put a spring scale on your mechanism and measure the force required to rotate your throttle's linkage through its full range of motion.

That's all I've got at this point... except to again recommend routing the servo cable to the throttle bellcrank and installing a 1.25" lever to the bellcrank.. tried-n-true...

John
 
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Having connected the vac gauge where the servo goes, #2 and #4 cylinder engine running, showed pulling 11 to 12 inches. I revved up the engine, no gain. I turned on the cruise and the vac gauge dropped to 5. This is with my 8 inch by 1 1/2 inch vac container. I don't have a spring gauge but I can't help but wonder why, if I've made a 1.25" lever on my pulley, direct to the throttle link, it doesn't have the same torque, or close to it. All of this hassle is because someone else installed this the same way I have and it worked. I can pull the carbs and install the arm the same way, I just went down the road I did, like I have many other times, it just hasn't worked out. Maybe it has to pull too hard and disconnects prematurely. Especially when #2 and #4 isn't enough vacuum. I'll try to feel the different in torque with my fingers before I press on and tie in #1 and #3 for more vacuum. Should I install the the 1.25" arm on the bellcrank, it shouldn't take too long. Not too long ago I replaced the rubber under the carbs, they should come right out.
What about the value of 11 inches of vacuum on the gauge. Does this sound right? I haven't connected a vac gauge to the engine before. More later.
 
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