Stranded Today With Battery Issues - Questions

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Looking to replace my two year old battery since it left me stranded today. The bike sat for about two months this Winter and crapped out this afternoon after I left the lights on for a few minutes while I filled up with gas (my mistake).

What batteries should I consider purchasing to replace my unreliable battery?

Tom
 

Kevin_56

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I am on my second factory Yuasa. A 2003 that the first battery was replaced 6 years ago at 66k miles and 8 years. Now 6 years later and 80k more miles, still going strong. Leaving the lights on will drain one quickly. Do not write it off until you do a load test on it fully recharged.
 

okckeith

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I bought my bike 10 years ago. I'm on my 2nd Yuasa also.
I bought a Motocross for $115.00 to replace it. I had a long trip planned. I didt want to be in the middle of nowhere on a 5 year old battery. It is built in the same factory as the Yuasa. Same battery.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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Do not write it off until you do a load test on it fully recharged.
A load test is the final arbiter in determining if a battery is ST-worthy. But I wouldn't have high hopes if it died in the time it took him to get gas. Even if not dead but low enough that the ST wouldn't STart I'd be very leery of its reliably. I probably wouldn't bother and just shop for a new one.
 
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Not sure if you are asking the right questions. Why did this happen? Did your battery discharge last winter? Was it on a battery tender? If it did discharge below a certain point, the lead can flake off the plates inside the battery reducing the battery's life. If severe enough (and I don't know if modern designs mitigate some of this) plates can short out and kill one cell - the battery is completely dead. Obviously this did not happen. Since we have had decent weather, have you been riding the bike with no problems?

Was your Unreliable Battery a dry charge type that you added acid to? Was it a flooded or an agm type? Was it a premium name brand battery? Was it a cheap battery of dubious origin? Was there a warranty? The latter are usually prorated, and you might get some money back toward a new one (haven't seen warranties on bike batteries, but maybe...).

Your choices will depend on how much you want to spend and what sorts of backup you have (roadside assistance) and your tolerance for dealing with problems at the side of the road.

I tend to go with a name brand (Yuasa), and have always had lead acid batteries in the past. Next time I will probably consider a Lithium Iron because of the weight and the fact that I tend not to ride in cold weather. Only fly in the ointment w/ Lithium is they require a special charger, so I'd have to buy yet another one.
 
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My experience has also been put it on charge for about 3 days to solidify or bake the plates to prevent short battery life .
 
OP
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A load charge is the final arbiter in determining if a battery is ST-worthy. But I wouldn't have high hopes if it died in the time it took him to get gas. Even if not dead but low enough that the ST wouldn't STart I'd be very leery of its reliably. I probably wouldn't bother and just shop for a new one.
I completely agree. Shopping for a new battery now.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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The OP's situation prompts me to consider a headlight's on alarm. Since the ignition and headlights are integrated unlike cars it would probably have to be tied to the oil pressure light or voltage drop or possibly the kill switch. And a timer to give you 15-30s before reminding you to turn ignition. There's always forum shaming but that's easily ignored.
 
OP
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Not sure if you are asking the right questions. Why did this happen? Did your battery discharge last winter? Was it on a battery tender? If it did discharge below a certain point, the lead can flake off the plates inside the battery reducing the battery's life. If severe enough (and I don't know if modern designs mitigate some of this) plates can short out and kill one cell - the battery is completely dead. Obviously this did not happen. Since we have had decent weather, have you been riding the bike with no problems?

Was your Unreliable Battery a dry charge type that you added acid to? Was it a flooded or an agm type? Was it a premium name brand battery? Was it a cheap battery of dubious origin? Was there a warranty? The latter are usually prorated, and you might get some money back toward a new one (haven't seen warranties on bike batteries, but maybe...).

Your choices will depend on how much you want to spend and what sorts of backup you have (roadside assistance) and your tolerance for dealing with problems at the side of the road.

I tend to go with a name brand (Yuasa), and have always had lead acid batteries in the past. Next time I will probably consider a Lithium Iron because of the weight and the fact that I tend not to ride in cold weather. Only fly in the ointment w/ Lithium is they require a special charger, so I'd have to buy yet another one.
I did take a RV cross country trip in March and April and neglected the ST for a while. My guess is that did not help the battery. Need to have a reliable battery now that it is riding season.
 
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I too have left my ignition on and found myself with a dead battery, but it is possible to push start this beast, but also much easier if you can find someone to help. Test it out before replacing.
 

Gerhard

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I too have left my ignition on and found myself with a dead battery,
I did that last night, I guess I was concentrating on getting all the groceries to the house in one go without the bag of milk slipping out of my grip. I have Shorai lithium battery installed and it took the charger quite a while before the real charging starts. According to the manual it might be an hour or so before the voltage is high enough for the battery to accept a 2 amp charge. We will see if the battery is fully charged when I get home this afternoon.

Gerhard
 

SteveST1300

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Switch to LED lights and an LiFe battery no more worries. I still don't leave they key on but if I do its not just a couple of minutes to kill the battery in fact when its cold I have to turn the key on for a minute or two to warm the battery up it makes starts much easier in the cold if you do that.
 
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The fundamental question that seems obvious to me and was the first thing that occurred to me is one that I'm surprised no one else has asked yet. How did the OP open the gas cap to fill the tank without turning off the ignition to remove the key?
That may be a little bit off topic, but I am still curious how he did that, and why?
 

T_C

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How did the OP open the gas cap to fill the tank without turning off the ignition to remove the key?
Stubby key left in the lock of the left glove box (what I do, I don't use the actual long ignition key for anyhting but th eignition) or the OP replaced the locking gas cap with a keyless model.
 

Kevin_56

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Stubby key left in the lock of the left glove box (what I do, I don't use the actual long ignition key for anyhting but th eignition) or the OP replaced the locking gas cap with a keyless model.
Spot on for what I do. First 10+years the stubby key that is in the left locking glovebox. Now a threaded gas cap. Still have never let the motor run while filling.
 
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