Loose Levers?

Clutch lever is a little loose top to bottom, not front to back. Is/was there perhaps a nylon washer or shim that could have degraded to allow such clearance? I dont see one on the schematics, but I am not seeing metal on metal abbrasion to cause the looseness. Advice here would be much appreciated. Oh, I have no problems with replacing the lever and components if needed, maybe even prefer, but dont want to do it, if there wont be any chane in tightness. Again, this is up and down motion, not in accuation.

coolweed said:

Clutch lever is a little loose top to bottom, not front to back. Is/was there perhaps a nylon washer or shim that could have degraded to allow such clearance? I dont see one on the schematics, but I am not seeing metal on metal abbrasion to cause the looseness. Advice here would be much appreciated. Oh, I have no problems with replacing the lever and components if needed, maybe even prefer, but dont want to do it, if there wont be any chane in tightness. Again, this is up and down motion, not in accuation.

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Originally no washer or shim, but you sure can insert one if needed.

I think I've seen nylon washers of different thicknesses at Hopot. You could always sand one thinner.

coolweed said:

but I am not seeing metal on metal abbrasion to cause the looseness.

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I've never needed a washer or shim. If the clutch lever isn't unusually worn you shouldn't need to waste your time with a washer.

Assuming the lever is the correct one for the bike (and not an incorrect or odd aftermarket replacement) try the Loose Lever Dance. Loosen the locknut on the bottom a turn or so. Tighten the screw to take up the slack. Then tighten the locknut. Insure there's full travel and no drag and you're golden.

This takes a little trial and error. If you tighten the screw until the lever doesn't wiggle and doesn't drag then tightening the locknut will draw the clutch bosses too tight and the lever will drag. The trick is to tighten the screw just enough that it's almost perfect so that tightening the locknut will make it perfect. The locknut doesn't need to be cranked down so go easy on it.

If you can't get it at least improved if not perfect than maybe try some washers. I'd just buy a new lever rather than futzing around with washers and shims. If I had a drawer full of varying sizes then maybe I'd try. But having owned several Hondas I've never needed to replace a lever because of normal wear and tear. Even aftermarket levers snugged up satisfactorily.

I wouldnt notice if it werent for the fact that starting around 4K it rattles. and then of course on good bumps on the road. It is more of an annoyance than anything else as the clutch works fine for it's purpose. I think I will take it off and inspect the the brass. I know Smunderdog wrote a great post on his lever maintenance (rod had gone through the bushing and lever). With all that said, i think i read somewhere of people replacing their lever with a VFR??? lever? Cause it is adjustable, like the brake? If anone out there reads the post and has info on that, post in here or link to any pre postings. Much appreesh.

I had an adjustable lever on my ST1100. I have no photos unfortunately - it was a long time before I discovered that other 1100s didn't have an adjustable lever. I was told at one point that it was from a VFR. Whatever it was, it fitted well and was extremely useful.

There is a brass "bush" part # 22885-MB0-006 insert which needs replacing on occasions. It will wear & deform in the clutch lever pivot hole. The "bush" fits in the lever & attaches to the "Push Rod" of the clutch master cylinder. Cost about $11 on Amazon. Some folks will replace the push rod part # 22884-MAT-E01. Use a flat tip screwdriver & a 10MM box end wrench to remove the lever. Easy fix. HTH btw: Yes VFR clutch lever will fit the ST1100, you might as well replace the lever if the clutch handle pivot hole is worn. I went with a cheapo knock off made my EMGO.

Thanks to everyone who has responded. I appreciate all the input.

ArTravlR said:

There is a brass "bush" part # 22885-MB0-006 insert which needs replacing on occasions. It will wear & deform in the clutch lever pivot hole. The "bush" fits in the lever & attaches to the "Push Rod" of the clutch master cylinder. Cost about $11 on Amazon. Some folks will replace the push rod part # 22884-MAT-E01. Use a flat tip screwdriver & a 10MM box end wrench to remove the lever. Easy fix. HTH btw: Yes VFR clutch lever will fit the ST1100, you might as well replace the lever if the clutch handle pivot hole is worn. I went with a cheapo knock off made my EMGO.

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I'm pretty sure the bushings you note are not the loose lever issue. Those bushing-rod parts involve the pushing of the clutch reservoir piston.

The bushing in the lever in which the bolt pass thru top to bottom USED to be available but as far as I can find is not longer available. I've replaced mine once with an old stock I had but I can't find any more and I too have a "loose lever".

jfheath said:

I had an adjustable lever on my ST1100. I have no photos unfortunately - it was a long time before I discovered that other 1100s didn't have an adjustable lever. I was told at one point that it was from a VFR. Whatever it was, it fitted well and was extremely useful.

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Did the same with my V65, they worked great.

Ozzie said:

Did the same with my V65, they worked great.

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Back in '84 and '84 when I hand my VF1000 and V65S I didn't know there were any adjustable levers. So I got a set of dog-leg levers that were a one-size fits all. I had to adjust to them but it was a big improvement over stock.