What colour?
- Thread starter Rocky ST
- Start date
Mine has a label with colour code on the chassis cross bar just rear of the fuel pump. Failing that try- http://www.st-1100.com/st1100-colour-codes.html
I think Sportznut's link only shows US and Canada colours.
I think Sportznut's link only shows US and Canada colours.
Rocky,
Remember paint changes colour over the years, but if you are painting all the lid it shouldn't matter. You'll need clear for over the top too and don't be surprised f you need a different base colour to get candy colours just right.
To touch up a Honda gold some time ago it was three different layers of colour and primer. It's not cheap either.
Upt'North.
Remember paint changes colour over the years, but if you are painting all the lid it shouldn't matter. You'll need clear for over the top too and don't be surprised f you need a different base colour to get candy colours just right.
To touch up a Honda gold some time ago it was three different layers of colour and primer. It's not cheap either.
Upt'North.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2006
- Messages
- 2,826
- Age
- 70
- Location
- Ilkley, W Yorkshire, UK
- Bike
- 2013 ST1300 A9
- 2024 Miles
- 000679
- STOC #
- 2570
Hi Rocky
There's a company in the UK called RS Bike Paint. Click for link.
Use the colour code that is on the label stuck to the frame under the seat.
Read their blurb carefully - if it is a metallic or a candy colour, you will likely need 3 different paints. A base (silver flecks if it is metallic), a translucent colour coat and a lacquer. The paint isn't necessarily waterproof until the lacquer has been applied.
Getting an exact patch is almost impossible. The reason being that the colour changes as soon as you apply the crystal clear lacquer - it gets lighter and brighter - quite significantly so. But a very good approximation is definitely possible. But its expensive - 3 cans at around £25 per can. iirc.
I got an old plastic glasses case. Applied a few layers of base. I did it by misting - a quick swipe left to right, starting away from the case and finishing beyond the case. The first misting doesn't cover it. Its only about the 4th or 5th that you can say the whole surface is beginning to look covered. Let it dry between each coat (which doesn't take long).
Then I masked off all but a narrow strip of the case and used the same technique with the colour candy coat. Let dry.
Then I removed the mask and applied a new one - leaving a strip twice as wide as before (including the bit that had received one mist of colour. Applied another misting.
So now I had two strips that had been misted. One strip had received 2 colour mists, one had received just one.
Let dry.
I then repeated the same pattern, applying a new mask to expose another strip of unpainted plastic. and kept repeating until I had 9 strips. The first strip had received 9 coats, the second had received 8 coats, the third had received 7 coats and so on.
This was left to dry, and then I carried out a similar process - but this time masking off 3 strips across at right angles to the first set. This was to apply the lacquer. 1 strip received one coat, one received 2 coats, 1 received 3 coats.
At the end of all of this, I had 27 different shades to hold up against the original bike paint.
In this way I knew how many mistings of colour and how many of lacquer were required to get the same results.
Its a mistake to be tempted to hurry it by taking it slowly with the spray in order to cover more. The paint will 'pool' and run and will be uneven. The first few coats will result in something which doesn't look painted. But gradually it builds up.
As I say - expensive. Its tedious and doesn't guarantee an exact match. When I did mine, it was pretty much spot on - in every photo that I took. But then I'd see it in a different light and I could tell that it wasn't quite right.
You wonder why there were so many different shades of Candy Red for the 1300s ? I think I know.
There's a company in the UK called RS Bike Paint. Click for link.
Use the colour code that is on the label stuck to the frame under the seat.
Read their blurb carefully - if it is a metallic or a candy colour, you will likely need 3 different paints. A base (silver flecks if it is metallic), a translucent colour coat and a lacquer. The paint isn't necessarily waterproof until the lacquer has been applied.
Getting an exact patch is almost impossible. The reason being that the colour changes as soon as you apply the crystal clear lacquer - it gets lighter and brighter - quite significantly so. But a very good approximation is definitely possible. But its expensive - 3 cans at around £25 per can. iirc.
I got an old plastic glasses case. Applied a few layers of base. I did it by misting - a quick swipe left to right, starting away from the case and finishing beyond the case. The first misting doesn't cover it. Its only about the 4th or 5th that you can say the whole surface is beginning to look covered. Let it dry between each coat (which doesn't take long).
Then I masked off all but a narrow strip of the case and used the same technique with the colour candy coat. Let dry.
Then I removed the mask and applied a new one - leaving a strip twice as wide as before (including the bit that had received one mist of colour. Applied another misting.
So now I had two strips that had been misted. One strip had received 2 colour mists, one had received just one.
Let dry.
I then repeated the same pattern, applying a new mask to expose another strip of unpainted plastic. and kept repeating until I had 9 strips. The first strip had received 9 coats, the second had received 8 coats, the third had received 7 coats and so on.
This was left to dry, and then I carried out a similar process - but this time masking off 3 strips across at right angles to the first set. This was to apply the lacquer. 1 strip received one coat, one received 2 coats, 1 received 3 coats.
At the end of all of this, I had 27 different shades to hold up against the original bike paint.
In this way I knew how many mistings of colour and how many of lacquer were required to get the same results.
Its a mistake to be tempted to hurry it by taking it slowly with the spray in order to cover more. The paint will 'pool' and run and will be uneven. The first few coats will result in something which doesn't look painted. But gradually it builds up.
As I say - expensive. Its tedious and doesn't guarantee an exact match. When I did mine, it was pretty much spot on - in every photo that I took. But then I'd see it in a different light and I could tell that it wasn't quite right.
You wonder why there were so many different shades of Candy Red for the 1300s ? I think I know.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
If your have the Pearl Red, it will be a pain as it is a 'two colour' mix - pearl underneath and then red on top - R158P. It is usually listed as was said on the crossbar under the seat.
Code Noun-Nomenclature
- -------- -------------------------
B142P Pearl Atlantis Blue
B162M Metallic Blue
G137M Grand Green Metallic
G140R Blackish Green
G142M Tazmanian Green
NH1 Black
NH1Z Black-Z
NH1R Black
NH123L Midnight Grey
NH214 Feather Grey
NH284M Euro Grey Metallic
NH285 Gusto Gray (lower fairing, etc)
NH295M Sparkling Silver Metallic
PB257M Lapis Blue Metallic
R101CU Candy Glory Red
R114CU Candy Wineberry Red
R158P Pure Pearl Red
R170P Pearl Ardent Red
R171R Apple Red
R178P Pearl Mulberry Red
RP103CU Candy Tropical Night Purple
YR166 Apple Beige (lower fairing, etc)
Code Noun-Nomenclature
- -------- -------------------------
B142P Pearl Atlantis Blue
B162M Metallic Blue
G137M Grand Green Metallic
G140R Blackish Green
G142M Tazmanian Green
NH1 Black
NH1Z Black-Z
NH1R Black
NH123L Midnight Grey
NH214 Feather Grey
NH284M Euro Grey Metallic
NH285 Gusto Gray (lower fairing, etc)
NH295M Sparkling Silver Metallic
PB257M Lapis Blue Metallic
R101CU Candy Glory Red
R114CU Candy Wineberry Red
R158P Pure Pearl Red
R170P Pearl Ardent Red
R171R Apple Red
R178P Pearl Mulberry Red
RP103CU Candy Tropical Night Purple
YR166 Apple Beige (lower fairing, etc)